Mr.Prime Posted January 27, 2021 Share #1 Posted January 27, 2021 Advertisement (gone after registration) I have a small bit of damage to the vulcanite on my M3. It’s too minor to justify a re-cover job but I’d like to fix it up. All I really need is a small piece from somebody who has done a full re-cover job and pulled off their old vulcanite. Can anybody help ? Quote Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Advertisement Posted January 27, 2021 Posted January 27, 2021 Hi Mr.Prime, Take a look here wanted: small scraps of vulcanite. I'm sure you'll find what you were looking for!
250swb Posted January 27, 2021 Share #2 Posted January 27, 2021 No you don't want to do that. Buy a pack of Black Milliput resin putty from eBay or a model shop nearby. It is a two part putty that you mix together in equal parts, so mix a small quantity and spread it into the surface you want to repair using a toothpick or similar to press it in and make sure it gets a good hold. Then when it is smooth and level using the wet end of a toothpick (or similar) to press into the surface the texture that matches the surrounding vulcanite. You have an hour or so to get it right. Then after another couple of hours it will have gone rock hard and look just like the original vulcanite. If you are going up to an edge, like the baseplate, don't let it dry while attached to the baseplate, run a wet knife along the join. All clean up can be done with water while it is still pliable. https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Milliput-Standard-Terracotta-Silver-Black-White-Blue-Model-Sculpting-Epoxy-Putty/162165173986?var=463235371609&epid=6038821635&hash=item25c1cc2ee2:g:bE0AAOSwdzVXq4jo 1 Quote Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Michael Geschlecht Posted January 28, 2021 Share #3 Posted January 28, 2021 (edited) Hello 250swb, Nice idea. Does this come off easily if you change your mind? Best Regards, Michael Edited January 28, 2021 by Michael Geschlecht Quote Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mr.Prime Posted January 28, 2021 Author Share #4 Posted January 28, 2021 Thx! - this stuff looks interesting but it would presumably be more authentic to use a scrap of vulcanite if anybody has any. I read on the ‘net that the epoxy putty is hard to remove, but some folk reported success using acetone. Quote Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ko.Fe. Posted January 28, 2021 Share #5 Posted January 28, 2021 On my M4-2 it started from small. Over few years it became much bigger. Quote Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
250swb Posted January 28, 2021 Share #6 Posted January 28, 2021 3 hours ago, Michael Geschlecht said: Hello 250swb, Nice idea. Does this come off easily if you change your mind? Best Regards, Michael The putty isn't a glue so only bonds mechanically to whatever roughness there is on the mating surface. If the surface is smooth it will be a cosmetic bond and not very strong. When hard it can be chipped away until it gets back to the edge of the original vulcanite. As for changing your mind there are a couple of hours to decide if you've created the right vulcanite texture or to start again, or to wipe it off and abandon the idea. The alternative of supergluing old bits of vulcanite onto the body doesn't bear thinking about in comparison. 1 Quote Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
250swb Posted January 28, 2021 Share #7 Posted January 28, 2021 Advertisement (gone after registration) 16 hours ago, Mr.Prime said: , but some folk reported success using acetone. Anybody recommending acetone is a moron. Quote Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
jerzy Posted January 30, 2021 Share #8 Posted January 30, 2021 I might possibly help you with vulcanite, I have some small pieces. How much you need? Post a photo please Quote Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mr.Prime Posted January 30, 2021 Author Share #9 Posted January 30, 2021 that sounds promising 🙂 as you can hopefully see from the crude ipad photo, there’s a piece of vulcanite chipped off next to the base plate on my M3. That’s the only real place where the vulcanite is damages, at least the other spots are too small to worry about. Welcome, dear visitor! As registered member you'd see an image here… Simply register for free here – We are always happy to welcome new members! Quote Link to post Share on other sites Simply register for free here – We are always happy to welcome new members! ' data-webShareUrl='https://www.l-camera-forum.com/topic/317383-wanted-small-scraps-of-vulcanite/?do=findComment&comment=4129342'>More sharing options...
pgk Posted January 30, 2021 Share #10 Posted January 30, 2021 (edited) Mine's been worse for years. Just patina, nothing to worry about. Lilliput (made in Dolgellau of all places!) sounds feasible but patching it with scraps is asking for it to look a mess unless you are very capable indeed. Welcome, dear visitor! As registered member you'd see an image here… Simply register for free here – We are always happy to welcome new members! Edited January 30, 2021 by pgk Quote Link to post Share on other sites Simply register for free here – We are always happy to welcome new members! ' data-webShareUrl='https://www.l-camera-forum.com/topic/317383-wanted-small-scraps-of-vulcanite/?do=findComment&comment=4129354'>More sharing options...
Mr.Prime Posted January 30, 2021 Author Share #11 Posted January 30, 2021 (edited) I’m willing to try it, I’m a DIY kinda person and not afraid to roll up my sleeves a little. I have been thinking about trying my hand at doing a rudimentary CLA because there are no local services, but the thing appears to work fine so I’m leaving that idea on the side burner. My M3 is a chrome, of course, so patina is not the same and this bit of damage offends my eyes. If I get a chance at a new M-P, which are usually BP, at a good price one day then it will be my pleasure to use til it’s showing some character. Edited January 30, 2021 by Mr.Prime Quote Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
pgk Posted January 30, 2021 Share #12 Posted January 30, 2021 21 minutes ago, Mr.Prime said: ..... this bit of damage offends my eyes. I would say that for most people interested in older film Leica's, a repair to the vulcanite would most likely be more offensive than the damage. A full replacement isn't horrendously expensive and is easy to do and I've done an M4 easily enough myself, but my last M4 will be left well alone. The one I did myself had needed substantial mechanical work too hence, why replacement covering was needed. Personally I'd leave well alone. 1 Quote Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Einst_Stein Posted January 30, 2021 Share #13 Posted January 30, 2021 Care to re-skin it with this nice leather? many color to choose. I have done this on my Rollei 35S. I like the result. Of course, it then will not be genuine any more. https://hugostudio.com/rangefinder.html Quote Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mr.Prime Posted January 31, 2021 Author Share #14 Posted January 31, 2021 wow, those new skins look top notch! I hadn’t really considered my rather generic eBay purchase as a particularly fine specimen, hence not worthy of such an investment just yet but my feelings may change - thanks for the link, shall be a useful reference. Quote Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Einst_Stein Posted January 31, 2021 Share #15 Posted January 31, 2021 (edited) 29 minutes ago, Mr.Prime said: wow, those new skins look top notch! I hadn’t really considered my rather generic eBay purchase as a particularly fine specimen, hence not worthy of such an investment just yet but my feelings may change - thanks for the link, shall be a useful reference. A $30 genuine new leather skin is a tiny investment on a working M3,..., or any working Leica. However, pay attention to the vendor, there are other vendors asking crazy high price, (a couple of hundred $$$). Avoid that. Many nice, genuine, high quality leather skin vendor (I have used) would ask only $20~30, but they are not on ebay. Just google to find them. The top two of my list: Both are good in communication, quality, and after sale service. But you have to check who has the skin for your camera. -- www.cameraleather.com -- hugostudio.com The following is excellent too according to reference, but when I approached them, they could not ship to US. --ahi-asahi.com ebay also has some other vendors, but the ones I found did not have high quality genuine leather, only imitated leather. (not sure now). Edited January 31, 2021 by Einst_Stein Quote Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
kokoshawnuff Posted January 31, 2021 Share #16 Posted January 31, 2021 To fill in small chips around the edges I’ve used liquid electrical tape applied and textured with a toothpick to create a similar appearance to the vulcanite. It matches pretty well with sheen and color, and it’s easy to remove when dry if you mess up or change your mind Quote Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pyrogallol Posted January 31, 2021 Share #17 Posted January 31, 2021 (edited) Welcome, dear visitor! As registered member you'd see an image here… Simply register for free here – We are always happy to welcome new members! vThere have been other discussions about vulcanite replacement. I used Aki Asahi on a Nikon S. On a Leica M2 I used small pieces of thin black leather, which gave it a different look but was ok as a patch-up. When the camera was serviced it came back with my leather replaced with real vulcanite repairs which are almost invisible. Edited January 31, 2021 by Pyrogallol Quote Link to post Share on other sites Simply register for free here – We are always happy to welcome new members! vThere have been other discussions about vulcanite replacement. I used Aki Asahi on a Nikon S. On a Leica M2 I used small pieces of thin black leather, which gave it a different look but was ok as a patch-up. When the camera was serviced it came back with my leather replaced with real vulcanite repairs which are almost invisible. ' data-webShareUrl='https://www.l-camera-forum.com/topic/317383-wanted-small-scraps-of-vulcanite/?do=findComment&comment=4129592'>More sharing options...
pgk Posted January 31, 2021 Share #18 Posted January 31, 2021 11 hours ago, Einst_Stein said: https://hugostudio.com/rangefinder.html That's where I got my 'standard' cover from - very helpful as I needed a slightly 'custom' version as the M4 self timer had been removed (not working). Easy to apply, just takes care and patience. Quote Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
jerzy Posted January 31, 2021 Share #19 Posted January 31, 2021 (edited) vor 18 Stunden schrieb Mr.Prime: that sounds promising 🙂 rounded surfaces are not easy to fix. Generally vulcanit is very britle in room temperature, you need to warm it up to cut and bend. Firstly I would warm up around missing place (using hair dryer) and cut existing vulcanite to have roughly stright lines, it makes easier cutting replacement, something like this Welcome, dear visitor! As registered member you'd see an image here… Simply register for free here – We are always happy to welcome new members! Then prepare paper template, paper, because you might possibly have to do more than one. If you have one that fits transfer it on the vulcanit piece which I will send you. Next step will be to cut vulcanite to the size of templatre. As I mentioned above vulcanite is brittle, it will break when you will try to cut. I am using warming plate from cofee machine to warm up vulcanite before cutting, for cutting I am using stanley knife. Almost always as well grinding is needed to get perfect fit. In your case, if you do not have such warming plate you may carefuly grind in room temperature however there is a risk it might break. I am using shellac based glue, this is how Leica glued vulcanite up to IIIc. Good glue is Super X, rubber based, not available everywhere. You may use as well contact glue (if this is a proper translation of German Kontaktkleber). Replacement vulcanite must be however warmed up to be bend, otherwise it will break. Again - if you do not have warming plate use hair dryer. Finally I am using hard wax (applied hot) to fill in smaller pieces missing. Send me PM with you postal address if you want to have a piece. Edited January 31, 2021 by jerzy Quote Link to post Share on other sites Simply register for free here – We are always happy to welcome new members! Then prepare paper template, paper, because you might possibly have to do more than one. If you have one that fits transfer it on the vulcanit piece which I will send you. Next step will be to cut vulcanite to the size of templatre. As I mentioned above vulcanite is brittle, it will break when you will try to cut. I am using warming plate from cofee machine to warm up vulcanite before cutting, for cutting I am using stanley knife. Almost always as well grinding is needed to get perfect fit. In your case, if you do not have such warming plate you may carefuly grind in room temperature however there is a risk it might break. I am using shellac based glue, this is how Leica glued vulcanite up to IIIc. Good glue is Super X, rubber based, not available everywhere. You may use as well contact glue (if this is a proper translation of German Kontaktkleber). Replacement vulcanite must be however warmed up to be bend, otherwise it will break. Again - if you do not have warming plate use hair dryer. Finally I am using hard wax (applied hot) to fill in smaller pieces missing. Send me PM with you postal address if you want to have a piece. ' data-webShareUrl='https://www.l-camera-forum.com/topic/317383-wanted-small-scraps-of-vulcanite/?do=findComment&comment=4129948'>More sharing options...
Mr.Prime Posted January 31, 2021 Author Share #20 Posted January 31, 2021 Wow, excellent advice and just encourages me further to give it a try. I have some shellac in a tiny bottle, part of a repair kit I used to glue a replacement rubber ink sac into my mum’s snorkel fountain pen. Quote Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
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