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Noctilux v4 & Filters


Keith (M)

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Somewhat surprised to read in the instruction manual that came with my v4 that "The use of filters with the Noctilux-M f1 50mm is not recommended"  Unfortunately it does not explain why.  Risk of veiling flare?  I had planned to buy an E60 4 stop ND for use with my M10M & M240.  Habitually with my M10M I use either orange or medium yellow filters.  Anyone any experiences of using filters with this lens?  Comments appreciated.

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Just now, jdlaing said:

Vignette I suspect.

Ah, of course - thanks.  E. Puts does comment in my Leica Compendium that it has a 3 stop vignette.  If that is the only point of concern and not a flare issue then I may well take the plunge as the effects of such a vignette can be sorted out in LR.

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Keith, I've never aware of the no-filter on Noctilux 1.0.

 

Some years ago, I had bad experiences with UV/IR filter on my Noctilux 1.0

reflections or "whatever" with spots lights not acceptable for me.

 

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No filter

 

After that, I tend to use the Noctilux 1.0 without filter, life shines again ...

 

 

Edited by a.noctilux
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6 minutes ago, a.noctilux said:

Keith, I've never aware of the no-filter on Noctilux 1.0.

 

Some years ago, I had bad experiences with UV/IR filter on my Noctilux 1.0

reflections or "whatever" with spots lights not acceptable for me.

 

 

Thanks.  My intended usage of filters would be in daylight so such unwanted reflections should not be an issue (hopefully!).

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1 hour ago, Keith (M) said:

I had planned to buy an E60 4 stop ND for use with my M10M & M240.

Hi Keith,

If additional vignetting from a filter proves unacceptable you might consider a larger filter and a step-up ring.  There would be a trade off with not being able to use the v4's hood of course.

I have used an E60 VarioND filter with my v4 and, apart from a more concentrated vignette than normal I've not experienced a problem.  I think the wording was a case of 'Auntie Leica'.

Pete.

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Hi Pete,

I had considered an E60 to 62 step-up, it would certainly make finding filters easier/cheaper but would prefer to retain use of the hood. Anyway, first of all I need to play-about (to use the technical term) with the lens to explore its capabilities.  

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Hi Keith,

I've been fortunate to have my v4 for a long time and over that time I've noticed that it's the most flare-resistant lens I've ever used - even shooting into powerful spectral highlights at night - and that the square hood is more or less superfluous.  I've had thoughts of removing the hood but I suspect I'd have to dismantle the lens to do it and I didn't want to go quite that much effort.  This is no more than a view you might take into account when working out which size of filter to choose so please ignore it as you wish. 🙂 

Pete.

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Hi Pete,

Thanks for the further info - appreciated.  Given the time of year and the current weather a ND filter is not a top priority.  More important are orange and yellow ones or my M10M and E60 ones are few and far between, unlike E62.  Anyhow, weather permitting hopefully I'll be able to use my 'permitted daily exercise' today to explore the capability of lens outdoors rather than continue looking for indoor subjects.

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ND filters - am trying to decide which grade.  With the f1 mounted on A7III (see example results in 'Wide-Open' thread) yesterday's shutter speeds (at ISO 160) ranged from 1/125 at road side verges & mixed woodland to 1/8000 in open countryside - and this in mid-Jan and a mostly overcast day.  So for a sunny summer's day (we do get some in England!) then probably a six-stop to be fairly sure of being able to use f1 when the subject merits it.  Thoughts, experiences?  Particularly any frustrations when having to remove/refit as/when light & location changes.  Thanks.

Edited by Keith (M)
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I've found that with maximum 1/4000th shutter speed and ISO 100 a 3-stop ND is sometimes (not often) not enough.

I ended up getting a Vario-ND because it offers 1 stop to 12 stops by simply rotating the filter to suit.  I can't recall using more than 10 stops (which was on one occasion trying not to blow out the sun in a sunset shot at Tanah Lot on Bali).  They're normally made from back to back polarising filters with markings on the rim to indicate the ND numbers.  Some VarioND's can produce colour casts but I haven't had that problem with Heliopan VarioND filters.  In case it's of interest, I bought mine from Teamworkphoto several years ago. (For full disclosure I have no connection with the the shop or website other than as a satisfied customer.)

Pete.

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What Pete says.

I use a "mild" 2-stop B&W filter for mine in most normal daylight circumstances and the Heliopan ND Vario (that's 1-6 stops) in more challenging light.

Regarding hoods, the built-in one stays collapsed and I use a generic 60mm vented one for added protection.

Edit: I forgot to mention that you can't attach a hood to the slim version.

Edited by Ecar
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1 hour ago, Ecar said:

... and the Heliopan ND Vario (that's 1-6 stops) ...

Ecar is absolutely correct, the filter is graduated 1 - 12, which I wrongly remembered as stops, but it's "ND 0.3 to ND 1.8", which is 6 stops so it's graduated in half-stops.  (I've been experimenting with a 10 stop and 6 stop filter on another lens for long exposures so 12 stops didn't seem out of place.)

 

1 hour ago, Keith (M) said:

Is yours the slim version & if so how much does it add to the vignette?

Mine's not the slim version because they weren't available at the time in E60.  It adds 'a bit' to the vignetting but I'm not sure how to answer your question meaningfully about how much it adds to the vignette really.  ('Less than the dead of night but more than a lark-strewn summer sky?' 🤔😊)  All I can really say is if I look for it I can usually tell which were shot with the Vario-ND although it's not what I'd call "intrusive" but of course you might have a different threshold of what's intrusive.  The vignette is a bit darker than the intrinsic v4 vignette but not like shooting through an oval window if that helps? 🙂

Pete.

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Mine is the "slim" version (although, to be fair, it's fairly thick).

Again, what Pete says: it's hard to quantify how much vignetting it adds without taking precise measures. Presumably somewhat less than the regular version?

On the bright side (no pun intended), any such vignetting is really easy to remove in post.

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Thanks all for the advice & information - much appreciated.  This morning's outing in very bright winter sunshine showed that perhaps a six-stop & 1/4000sec may not be quite enough (on my M10M at least).  Will check with Teamwork tomorrow to see if they have stock of the slimline Vario-ND.

 The low sun also (presumably) showed the limits of the lens hood - see below.

 

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Just a thought but since this version of the Noctilux is from the film days could it be that the warning is for color filters since some of them causes a focus shift and the Noctilux is inherently hard to focus wide open with such thin DoF?

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@Keith (M)   I use the B&W nano 3-stop filter on my f/1.  It's pretty slim indeed, yet it does add some vignetting.  With the M10 base ISO at 200 the 3-stop filter isn't always enough and I have to drop to ISO 100.  In very bright light (like the beach) that too isn't always enough.  Hopefully the M11 comes with a base ISO of 50 and a shutter speed of 1/8000.

B+W 60mm XS-Pro MRC-Nano 803 ND 0.9 Filter (3-Stop)

https://www.bhphotovideo.com/c/product/1298666-REG/b_w_1089179_xs_pro_60mm_nano_mc_803.html

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Earlier in the week I ordered the Heliopan 60mm Slim Variable ND filter from Teamworks (thanks, Pete) & it arrived yesterday (Thursday).  A chunky item - 84g!  Sunny day today so a brief stroll with it fitted to my f1 v4 & M10M. Photo below is an OoC jpg (aside from being resized for the forum & the border added).  I left the vignette 'as is' but could have dealt with it if judged necessary.  

Anyway, the filter 'does what it says on the tin', so to speak.  Determined to use f1 whatever what?  Then compose, focus, see '4000' flashing, turn the filter ring until flashing disappears, press shutter button. Simples!  :)

PS - the vignette looks dark because my jpg setting is High Contrast.  The dng file shows a similar area but rather less pronounced.

PS2 - what I need now is a 'push-on' cap to go over the filter & hood.

 

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Edited by Keith (M)
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