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if you had to choose only one F/stop (0.95-16)


Dennis

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8 hours ago, Dennis said:

I need to read something about him. I heard so many good things. At the moment, I'm reading Sean Reid

5.6 because the lens performance or because you like the DOP?

https://docs.google.com/viewer?a=v&pid=sites&srcid=ZGVmYXVsdGRvbWFpbnxpbWFnZXNvZmV2ZXJ5ZGF5bGlnaHRhbmRsaWZlfGd4OjZlMjJlMjljZmM1YTc5MTY

I have used some of the lenses mentioned in this book. Very realistic descriptions are provided. 

DOF @ f5.6 and 21mm or 90 mm is very different thing. :)

 

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Based on my experience with about 12 cameras and/or lenses that offer only one or two f/stops and those f/stops fall into a range of f/8 to f/11, if I had to select just one f/stop to use for an entire month on my M camera, I would pick f/8 on my favorite focal length of 35mm.

If I could pick my 35mm SLR, I would pick f/8 on my 28-70mm zoom lens.

If I could pick my medium format camera, it would be f/8 on my 90mm lens.

If I had to pick my large format view camera, it would be f/16 on my 135mm lens.

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9 hours ago, Ecar said:

A single lens for an entire month? Summilux 35 v1, or Summicron 35 v1 or Summaron 35/2.8 - just because they are small, beautiful and a joy to use.

@ f/5.6 of course.

So 35mm it's your guy. 5.6 of course, but why?

8 hours ago, evikne said:

And with my ASPH Summiluxes (35/50mm) I almost exclusively shoot at f/1.4, because stopped down I think they look "boring".

Boring? Interesting... Just because you like shallow DOP? And are you shooting @1.4 at all distances? Or do you have a sweet-spot distance?

8 hours ago, Pyrogallol said:

f5.6

or f6.3 when I am using a lens with the old scale.

5.6 looks like a winner in this post

5 hours ago, Al Brown said:

A very interesting post, reflects on some deep theories.

Agree. That's why I started the thread. I'm doing it my self for this month and I thought It was nice to know what others would do. And the answers are of course different 😬

1 hour ago, tommonego@gmail.com said:

With my CL a 23 Summicron at f5.6

With my M8 25 Canon f3.5 at f8

With the M3 35 Summilux pre asph f5.6

Another lens I like on all the cameras is a 135 Tele Elmar that is really good at f8

Just have to say these are not fixed fstop lenses and there are occasions to use all the fstops

another one for 5.6 , oh yeah. And of course there are occasions to use all fstops, and it's like it should be. Conditions change and so the settings. But with only one f/stop, according to the style, one can still do magic thing, I think

 

 

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1 hour ago, Ko.Fe. said:

https://docs.google.com/viewer?a=v&pid=sites&srcid=ZGVmYXVsdGRvbWFpbnxpbWFnZXNvZmV2ZXJ5ZGF5bGlnaHRhbmRsaWZlfGd4OjZlMjJlMjljZmM1YTc5MTY

I have used some of the lenses mentioned in this book. Very realistic descriptions are provided. 

DOF @ f5.6 and 21mm or 90 mm is very different thing. :)

 

Thanks for sharing. Yes 5.6 at 21 is awesome for massive DOP, and nice OOF with a 90mm, correct.

25 minutes ago, Narsuitus said:

if I had to select just one f/stop to use for an entire month on my M camera, I would pick f/8 on my favorite focal length of 35mm.

35mm at f/8 ... Street photography at its best. Love this setting. Why you pick f/8? To help you with DOP or to have more control of MF?

 

 

Nice to see that most people are between f/5.6 and f/8 , and a very few wide open. Interesting

Edited by Dennis
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😄

For decades, it was f/11 * on every lenses 😇

with my Kodachrome 64 setting for 99% was f/11 and 1/125

for K25 was f/11 and 1/50 or 1/60 !

* less Noctilux which I have later

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for myself, stupid challenge, here

 

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1 minute ago, a.noctilux said:

For decades, it was f/11 * on every lenses 😇

with my Kodachrome 64 setting for 99% was f/11 and 1/125

f/11 is the "maximum" DOP before diffraction start to be noticed. Love it. But why? Just to be sure everything is on focus? 

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5 minutes ago, Dennis said:

Boring? Interesting... Just because you like shallow DOP?

Not only because I like shallow DOF. I just think my ASPH lenses get too sharp when stopped down, and I am not interested in such clinical sharpness. It's a bit hard to explain, but the pre-ASPH lenses retain their "crispness" even when stopped down, and never look boring. 

14 minutes ago, Dennis said:

And are you shooting @1.4 at all distances? Or do you have a sweet-spot distance?

I prefer to shoot wide open at closer distances. The effect of the shallow DOF decreases anyway when the subject is farther away.

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8 minutes ago, evikne said:

I just think my ASPH lenses get too sharp when stopped down, and I am not interested in such clinical sharpness. It's a bit hard to explain, but the pre-ASPH lenses retain their "crispness" even when stopped down, and never look boring. 

It totally makes sense. If you don't like the clinical look, agree. And I think is wonderful to have a specific lens you are in love with, knowing everything about it, predicting results etc.

I hope I'll try in the future a 35LUX pre Asph, and w/ the FLE, I heard so many good things about them.

12 minutes ago, a.noctilux said:

Maybe some influences:

Haas

Atget

HCB

and many more ...

I see ..well, masters of the universe haha

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1 hour ago, Dennis said:

So 35mm it's your guy. 5.6 of course, but why?

No, I actually have a preference for 50mm lenses, but 35mm is more versatile (and you can always crop).

Also, I generally like to shoot wide open or thereabouts (and miss many shots, but that's another story), but f/5.6 is the optical sweet spot of most lenses and would also work in the majority of situations.

Your original question calls for acceptable compromises based on the premise you stated. Change the premise (eg, which lens would you use @ f/2 only for a month?) and you'll get different replies - at least from me...

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M-D Typ-262, 40mm f1.4 Voigtlander Nokton. f4.5.

M-D is practically the perfect camera (for me); 40mm is my 'Goldilocks' focal-length; at f4.5 the lens still shows a bit of character at min/very-near focus but for medium-to-long-range subjects it can bring in enough DoF for the vast majority of images.

Philip.

Edited by pippy
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2 hours ago, Dennis said:

35mm at f/8 ... Street photography at its best. Love this setting. Why you pick f/8? To help you with DOP or to have more control of MF?

No, not depth-of-field or manual focus control.

I picked f/8 only because that is what I have used in the past and I know what to expect with f/8.

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17 minutes ago, Ecar said:

A rare Photoshop version?

As Homer would say; "Doh!"...

Thank you, Ecar!......:lol:......Clearly I wasn't thinking 'off-kilter' and took Dennis' comment at face-value; the 'Shooting only at f4!' angle hadn't clicked (pun) until you answered. Hmmm.....considering my own choice of aperture (f4-and-a-half) it would be rather tricky to post an image with the same result!

Philip.

Edited by pippy
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If you like wide open and close up, this is a Leica thread war-time Zeiss Sonnar 50mm f1.5 probably 1945-47 Russian occupation construction and possibly not perfectly aligned elements producing the swirly shapes.

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Edited by Pyrogallol
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16 minutes ago, pippy said:
18 hours ago, Dennis said:

...What do you think of my rare 35/4 Biogon? 😎...

What's the story here, Dennis? It says f2.8 35mm on the front ring but seems to have nothing to the left of f4?

It's the original Biogon 2.8, with tiny black tape pieces. Unbelievably easy to remove, cut, and stick. My wife is doing it any time I need it. She's awesome. Me and my RF madness haha,

For example, I taped some apertures, some Mt distances (and all feet) on my TT 35/1.4... And this is the way I like it to use. I noticed I'm faster, and I can be more effective. For me, a fraction of a second can really make the difference. I taped all aperture but f/2 + f/4 + f/8. 

Only for this month, I taped f/2 and f/8 too, leaving only f/4... I'm shooting a personal project, the story of a guy. And I decided to shoot it all at f/4. I thought explaining with a few photos the why was a better and more understandable way. The next week I have all the images ready. 🙂

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1 hour ago, Ecar said:

Your original question calls for acceptable compromises based on the premise you stated. Change the premise (eg, which lens would you use @ f/2 only for a month?) and you'll get different replies - at least from me...

Yes, it's about compromises. That's why is interested. I wouldn't shoot the same project i'm doing, only at f/2 or wider. I can't. I need more context.

1 hour ago, Ecar said:

Also, I generally like to shoot wide open or thereabouts (and miss many shots, but that's another story), but f/5.6 is the optical sweet spot of most lenses and would also work in the majority of situations.

So, what would you choose, if you have to. Wide open or f/5.6? This is the question haha... After this month i would probably shoot one month at f/2 and one at f/8. That's it. Hope no projects during the f/2 period 😱It would be real challenge for me, causing suffering for the lack of DOP 😂Just kidding

1 hour ago, pippy said:

M-D Typ-262, 40mm f1.4 Voigtlander Nokton. f4.5.

This is one of the most interesting combination in this thread. Love it

 

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