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I have a slight but not to severe problem. I've noticed that my Leica M7 is not able to read the DX code of these two specific films: Fujifilm Superia X-Tra 400 and Fujifilm Fujicolor C200. For these two films I get the ISO value of 5000 and 3200 which are obviously wrong. For example, Fujifilm Pro 400H is working perfectly fine, the ISO detection works without problems. Further I tried several other films like Kodak Ektar 100, Kodak Portra 160 and 400, Ilford FP4+ 125 and so on... and the dx detection worked perfectly fine on every single one of these films. I compared the working ones with the "malfunctioning" films and the only difference I noticed is that the black paint in the dx code is a kind of green, it's not a perfect black, more like a darkish green, definitely not a true black. Could this maybe be the reason?
The thing is, I've sent my camera to Leitz for a grand- overhaul just 3 weeks back. They changed and renewed a lot of parts including thr DX- reader so the camera is like brand new. Unluckily I've no clue if it had the same problem before it went to Leitz because I've not shot one of these films before.
It would be a great help if somebody has an answer or maybe a similar problem!
By Charlie F.
I own a Leica Q2. My first Leica.... and I love it. From the simple controls, to the image sharpness and colour fidelity.
However, for my occasional gig and landscape photography I use a Nikon D850 with a range of long and prime lenses. I'm toying with the idea of trading my Nikon for the mirrorless SL2. The similar controls, lens quality, sharpness and build quality are all factors in my consideration. Is this a sound move? Can I make it work? What lenses would be available to me [not just from Leica, but maybe Panasonic/Sigma, etc]?
Any advice/criticism welcome. Thanks!
NB. I currently use a 300mm Nikon lens for some of my photography, is there an option in the Leica system for such a lens?
I have a query about the aperture settings on the modern 'O' Serie replica camera produced by Leica.
I've considered putting a VOOLA aperture control ring on the front of the camera with a FISON hood, or possibly a suitable push on filter, when out and about, to allow easier adjustment of the aperture lever on the front of the lens. I know this works as I have transferred the VOOLA + FISON from my 3,5 Elmar to test.
Using some sort of aperture control on the 'O' Serie is useful as otherwise the aperture lever is quite tricky to adjust as it is nearly flush with the front face of the lens.
I've no doubt that even with a coated lens, the camera might benefit from the use of a lens hood (as do most cameras).
The 'O' Serie lens is not detachable and has 1917 aperture values (f3,8; f4,5; f6,3; f9 and f12) and shutter speeds are 1/500; 1/200; 1/100;1/50; and 1/20s + B).
The question is if instead of a VOOLA I tried a VALOO adapter, which has a similar connection to the lever on the 'O' Serie lens as the VOOLA but adjusts by aligning marks on the front of the adapter which correspond with modern aperture values, is the computation of the 1917 'O' Serie lens close enough to a 3,5 Elmar that if for instance f5,6 was selected on the VALOO, it would position the selector on the 'O' Serie lens to about the right place to correspond with f5,6 on the 'O' Serie and so on through the aperture range ?
In other words would the use of a VALOO allow the use of modern aperture settings on the replica 1917 lens ?
Any comments would be appreciated !!
Thanks in advance,