Beginner: Leica Type 240 Auto-Setting , Exif, LR WF

[olzen911]

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Hi there,

i have some observations w/ my new used M Type 240, where i am looking for some answers (sorry for mixing up too many aspects):

• (1) When i take a photo on (A), quite often the picture is overexposed. Even when in C mode also the next pictures are like that. It then helps moving the camera away and then back to the point where is started to get the right exposure - any hints on settings or errors that may cause this?
• (2) Other then that, i have a Summilux 50mm w/ 6-bit encoding, that is recognized by the cam correctly and also written in Exif. What often seems "random" is the aperture: even when i leave it at 1.4 it sometimes says 2.8 or whatever in Lightroom. On top i was asking myself how the cam knows about the aperture as no signal is transmitted
• (3) I also rented a 1.4 pre-asph, with retrofit 6-bit enc (just to see if i buy the asph or pre-asph), and this is not recognized by the cam. As the retro encoding was done by Leica, i do not think it is the lens - any experience / hints on that one?
• (4) Last Q 🙂 can anyone tell me why (for E46) there are only 16 ND filters from Leica? Is this the one to go for, when trying to shoot wide open in the sun with summilux or rather take a third party 8?

Best & Thanks

[andybarton]

Welcome to the forum

Firstly, have you used an M before? I have an M240 and have been very pleased with it. I too find that I need to be careful when exposing and I do have an occasional glitch in the meter that needs a switch off and restart to cure. 

The f-stop shown in LR is just a guess made by the camera. The small window on the front of the camera compares light passing through the lens against a reading from that sensor and then approximates the f-stop. Makes no difference to the exposure of anything though and there is no way for an M lens to pass f-stop information to the camera.

AFAIR, the pre-ASPH Summilux doesn't have a code - but if there is no code, you can manually set the lens via the menu on the camera.

I use a B&W ND filter. Made in Germany and very good.

There is am M10 FAQ section that might help - many of the questions will be the same as for the M240

 

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[olzen911]

Thank you, already helps a lot!

[epand56]

Olzen, I think you should avoid using the "A" and go manual, setting aperture and times. On a digital M you generally expose for the light and then fix shadows in PP (if you have to). This helps to avoid overexpose or blowing the highlights. The dot and arrows indicator inside the viewfinder helps you to see if you are over or underexposing and decide what better suit your picture. If you prefer going on with using the "A", then I think you should expose on a medium lighted zone, half press the shutter and then recompose the picture. After I took confidence with my M240 aperture and times, I've almost forgot the existence of the "A" mode.

[Good To Be Retired]

On 11/16/2020 at 4:34 AM, olzen911 said:

Hi there,

i have some observations w/ my new used M Type 240, where i am looking for some answers (sorry for mixing up too many aspects):

• (1) When i take a photo on (A), quite often the picture is overexposed. Even when in C mode also the next pictures are like that. It then helps moving the camera away and then back to the point where is started to get the right exposure - any hints on settings or errors that may cause this?

I'm not absolutely certain of this, it's more in the vein of a WAG, but it might be something to check.  When in C mode some cameras maintain the meter reading for the first image in the sequence.  Thus, if you blow the exposure on the first photo all the subsequent images in the sequence will be off also.  I've never had occasion to check this on a Leica, but it might be something to look at.

Additionally, verify that you don't have the metering mode set for Spot.  Beyond that I have no idea.  You might think about making all your exposure settings using a gray card for a day or so and perhaps you can discern some sort of pattern.

• (2) Other then that, i have a Summilux 50mm w/ 6-bit encoding, that is recognized by the cam correctly and also written in Exif. What often seems "random" is the aperture: even when i leave it at 1.4 it sometimes says 2.8 or whatever in Lightroom. On top i was asking myself how the cam knows about the aperture as no signal is transmitted

This time it's the CAMERA making a WAG based on light level/exposure  It will probably only occasionally be correct.

• (3) I also rented a 1.4 pre-asph, with retrofit 6-bit enc (just to see if i buy the asph or pre-asph), and this is not recognized by the cam. As the retro encoding was done by Leica, i do not think it is the lens - any experience / hints on that one?

You might verify that the coding was actually done by Leica, I suspect that it was not.  Otherwise, clean the windows on the camera body where the code is read and see if that makes any difference.  Might not hurt to verify you have the correct code also.  You can check from this list. https://www.devonbuy.com/how-to-6-bit-code-leica-m-lens/

• (4) Last Q 🙂 can anyone tell me why (for E46) there are only 16 ND filters from Leica? Is this the one to go for, when trying to shoot wide open in the sun with summilux or rather take a third party 8?

Leica doesn't actually make filters themselves, they purchase from B & W or Hoya or whoever submits the best bid.  Feel free to purchase from whatever recognized quality mfgr. has the best price/selection for your needs.

Best & Thanks

 

Edited December 1, 2020 by Good To Be Retired

[Steve Ricoh]

On 11/25/2020 at 1:01 PM, epand56 said:

Olzen, I think you should avoid using the "A" and go manual, setting aperture and times. On a digital M you generally expose for the light and then fix shadows in PP (if you have to). This helps to avoid overexpose or blowing the highlights. The dot and arrows indicator inside the viewfinder helps you to see if you are over or underexposing and decide what better suit your picture. If you prefer going on with using the "A", then I think you should expose on a medium lighted zone, half press the shutter and then recompose the picture. After I took confidence with my M240 aperture and times, I've almost forgot the existence of the "A" mode.

In aperture priority (‘A‘’) a good starting point is to point the lens at something approximating middle grey, eg green grass. Whilst  maintaining half press (AE lock) recompose and expose. Of course with digital it’s entirely possible to take a test photo, evaluate and make exposure adjustments - unless it’s a transient moment that can’t be repeated, eg2 a street scene with people doing what people do.

[cboy]

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The beautiful aspect about the M is its simplicity in its menu settings, the lesser steep learning curve and its emphasis on 'manual'. As much as 'A'' is good and all, and its great to start with i would respectfully suggest to looking into internalising exposure. By doing so will make your workflow more efficient and will improve user experience when using the M. IMHO it has made photography all the more enjoyable as it frees up from being caught up with technical aspects and and focus on creativity and just ''seeing'.

Of course its still important to have critical exposure for certain scenarios, ETTR (low iso) which i would then suggest an  more accurate external light meter.  Ive never found a cameras metering system be very accurate or at least consistent, particularly in difficult lighting or high contrast scenes.

https://photo-exposure-calculator.soft112.com/

http://expomat.tripod.com/

Use a frame of refence and then adjust in respect to your requirements and available light around where you live. Keeping an journal is great for this.

Apologies if I'm being didactic

Congrats on your new M 

All the best