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Using flash anyone? Any recommendation?


AGeoJO

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I have not felt the need to use any on-camera flash on my M8 and therefore I have not considered getting one. I dislike the typically harsh and flat lighting we get using an on-camera flash unit and yes, the idea of using an on-camera flash can shock Leica M users :D. However, before too long I will have to use one at a function since the lighting condition will be fairly low. What is my option out there? I know Leica makes SF24D flash but the head is fix (no swivel/tilt action). What is the recommendation of other M8 users that have to have use flash? Metz? Or simply the old-style flash ala Vivitar 283? I really appreciate your feedback here.

 

Thanks,

Joshua

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You are right about the SF 24D. It works fairly well, but it does not swivel or tilt. The Metz 44MZ-2 with the SCA 3002 adapter is a little better; it tilts, but does not swivel. The TTL function on both of these flashes is something called GNC. There are pre-flashes which delay the time between pushing the shutter button and the exposure. While it is not too bad, when photographing people,one of your subjects will frequently blink or look away. The other thing do is use the old 283's sunpak's and use the A setting. It is not TTL, but you do have instant replay on the digita,l with a histogram to adjust and get it right. Regards. DR

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I have a 24D on order but I'm wondering if anyone has used it with an off-shoe cable? I assume a Nikon or a Canon cable should work, shoudn't it?

 

 

A Nikon SC-17 cable works great. The 24D works great as long as you accept its limitations. This question has been answered numerous times in various threads.

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I just photographed a function that had very poor lighting. I used the SF24D on the Joe Demb flash bracket with the Nikon SC-17 cord (and a Wein safesync.) It worked pretty well. I was able to move the flash around on the bracket. I actually aimed it at the ceiling and bounced off the ceiling most of the time. (I also put a diffuser over the flash.), It wasn't as good as using my Metz 54, but I decided on the SF24D because I was going to be working for 6 hours and I didn't want the weight of the Metz and I also find the Metz very top-heavy and unbalanced on the Joe Demb bracket with the M8.

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Hi David and Llyod,

Thank you very much. I like the idea of at least being able to tilt the flash head although vertical shots will be kind of funky if you cannot swivel the head. Being able to use it off the camera using a Canon/Nikon cord is also great but you have to use a flash bracket for that since you need your left hand to focus, huh :(?

 

Joshua

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Hi Cindy,

I was typing my post when you posted yours :D. Thanks for sharing your experience.

Originally, I didn't like the flash bracket idea but that particular one seems to be lightweight enough. Hm, now, I was wondering whether there is a Lightshpere (Gary Fong's) or Stofen or similar that can be adapted to the SF 24D.... What diffuser are you using?

 

Thanks,

Joshua

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Joshua,

I got my diffuser from Joe Demb a couple of years ago. It was a bounce card/diffuser combination and I only use the diffuser with the SF24D.

Here is a shot of my kludge set-up:D :

medium.jpg

 

I need to get my Nikon cord shortened and it will look a lot better. I added the camo cover over the handle, but I see that Joe Demb now offers a cover. I would suggest it.

If you don't have a flash yet, I would certainly investigate the smaller Metz 44MZ-2 with the SCA 3002. If it tilts, you will gain flexibilty with this bracket.

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Joshua,

I got my diffuser from Joe Demb a couple of years ago. It was a bounce card/diffuser combination and I only use the diffuser with the SF24D.

Here is a shot of my kludge set-up:D :

medium.jpg

 

I need to get my Nikon cord shortened and it will look a lot better. I added the camo cover over the handle, but I see that Joe Demb now offers a cover. I would suggest it.

If you don't have a flash yet, I would certainly investigate the smaller Metz 44MZ-2 with the SCA 3002. If it tilts, you will gain flexibilty with this bracket.

 

I can't help feeling that this set up looks very cumbersome and that a better solution would be the Metz 54 MZi. Or perhaps I am missing an important benefit of this bracket arrangement.

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I like to get the flash up higher off the camera. I do have the Metz 54, but it is so heavy for a long shoot and it makes the m8 unbalanced for me. This looks kludgy, but it actually works really well for me. I can switch from portrait to landscape and just swing the flash around quickly. ymmv

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Ok--this is going to be heresy here, but I found out last week that the best portable flash I ever used on an M8 (and I have the Metz 54) is the Canon 580!!

 

Yes, you just put that bad thing on the M8, switch to manual and dial in the amount of flash you need down to what? 1/256 of output or something silly like that?

 

Because the output is adjusted by the wheel on the flash (and by aperture on the camera, essentially) it was really easier than I thought to balance.

 

The Metzs are great, but unless you're doing additive flash in full sun are often too powerful inside and can't be dialled down quite so much or as easily as the 580. They're easy to create a "full flash" look but not so great for balancing flash and ambient.

 

For off-camera flash I have a RRS bracket that works well with either the Metz or the Canon. But because I also shoot a 5d, this means one less thing to carry (the Metz)

 

FWIW, I usually use pocket wizards though for multiples or of course strobes.

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Cindy,

Thank you for the tip and picture.

 

Jamie,

Some 25 years ago, I used a manual Norman (P200B) flash and you get the correct exposure by changing the output of the flash (from full to 1/8, if memory serves) and the aperture of the lens depending on the distance between you and the target. It took some practise and you could err towards overexposure as negative film benefits from that, well, up to 2 stops. Since I have a Canon 580 as well, I will "experiment" with that and now we can judge the exposure instantly with digital. Thanks for the tip.

 

Joshua

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Cindy,

Thank you for the tip and picture.

 

Jamie,

Some 25 years ago, I used a manual Norman (P200B) flash and you get the correct exposure by changing the output of the flash (from full to 1/8, if memory serves) and the aperture of the lens depending on the distance between you and the target. It took some practise and you could err towards overexposure as negative film benefits from that, well, up to 2 stops. Since I have a Canon 580 as well, I will "experiment" with that and now we can judge the exposure instantly with digital. Thanks for the tip.

 

Joshua

 

Joshua--I'd say you're in for a nice surprise, though of course try the M8 around 320, and you can go underexposed two stops no problem. At 640, you should be nailing it; I didn't try higher, though I'm sure with the 580 dialled right down (or for a long distance subject) it would work fine.

 

I should mention two other things... I'm also bouncing the flash, so the 580 is great for that and you don't need a bracket... I also really like to match the flash with the ambient of the room--great for preserving the atmosphere.

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medium.jpg

Shown above: Joe Demb flash bracket (I covered the handle), SF24D, diffuser from Joe Demb, Nikon SC-17, Wein safe-sync.

 

Thanks Cindy. I have been looking for a diffuser for my SF20 and the Demb diffuser looks like a good replacement for Lutz's diffuser that I used on my M7 (the SF20 doesn't provide TTL on the M8 so I need something that doesn't reflect light back into the sensor on the flash). Just ordered the Demb diffuser for $7.95 - what a deal! I use the flash directly on camera dialed down or else go with the strobo-flip with the Nikon SC-17 (don't need the Wein safe sync with this set-up). -Jim

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