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M10M - iso 25000 photos


didier

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@didier - Thanks for posting these. 

For ISO 25,000 these look really good - just a tiny hint of grain, much less than what I have had when printing from Kodak Tri-X negatives shot at ISO 400. 

I have not yet dug into the higher ISO settings with my M10M, but I have found ISO 3200 to be usable.  These shots show the M10M to have a lot more to offer in terms of ISO than what I have tried so far. 

With the M10M's bespoke B&W sensor, we are in a different realm.

Edited by Herr Barnack
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41 minutes ago, Herr Barnack said:

@didier - Thanks for posting these. 

For ISO 25,000 these look really good - just a tiny hint of grain, much less than what I have had when printing from Kodak Tri-X negatives shot at ISO 400. 

I have not yet dug into the higher ISO settings with my M10M, but I have found ISO 3200 to be usable.  These shots show the M10M to have a lot more to offer in terms of ISO than what I have tried so far. 

With the M10M's bespoke B&W sensor, we are in a different realm.

Yes, we are in a different realm :) all the more so the photo I posted is a OOC jpeg pic, just quickly adjusted in the iPad Photos App... 

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On 9/5/2020 at 6:00 PM, didier said:

Many of us have already noticed it, but shooting @ iso 25000 is now a non-issue 😊

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Who cares what the ISO is when you can take photos like this😊

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This is @ 50000 ISO... just glorious.

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This is 100000 iso. In reality everything except the small area around the head was totally dark for my eyes.

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As I've mentioned elsewhere, I find that the images at 50,000 and above tend show some sensor banding (those fine horizontal lines you'll see crossing the entire image) but that application of a plugin like Nik DFine 2 (it has an option for this) can more or less sort the issue. As such I've used 100,000 a few times and am perfectly happy with the output.

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I am using the M10M up to ISO25000 (and sometimes above) without any issue, I even like the "grain" like the Ilford HP5 in film time.

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Edited by strohscw
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On 9/13/2020 at 5:01 PM, convexferret said:

As I've mentioned elsewhere, I find that the images at 50,000 and above tend show some sensor banding (those fine horizontal lines you'll see crossing the entire image) but that application of a plugin like Nik DFine 2 (it has an option for this) can more or less sort the issue. As such I've used 100,000 a few times and am perfectly happy with the output.

agree. DNG files with iso 50K and 64K is better than JPEG files. because the JPEG Files tends to decrease highlight and increase the shadows (this means exaggerates the banding)

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  • 3 weeks later...

iso 40000, 35mm, f1/8, 1/250s

Wiels museum Brussel

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iso 25000, apo50mm, f1/5,6 1/180sec

nearby 

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Interesting results.  Reading the thread at my desk, I picked up my M10M (+ 50mm Summilux-M ASPH) I turned to my left take a photo diagonally across the room, the only light being a 40W desk-lamp behind me.  The result below is at ISO 64000 (yes 64000 not 6400!) - amazingly clean.

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here a 25000 iso - because i wanted f1/11 at 1/125s

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here a iso 32000 f1/5,6 1/250sec for freezing the man

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Another at ISO 64000.  Yes, 64000. Having neither a black cat nor a coal-cellar I had to find a dark corner of the garage to experiment with very high ISO settings.

M10M, 50mm Summilux-M ASPH.

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Edited by Keith (M)
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  • 10 months later...

Almost no limits to shoot at high iso…

M10M + ‘lux 50 asph @iso 25000 once again…

I always leave the iso-dial on auto with my M10M 😊

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ISO 25,000 and 32,000 images look like you could easily make large size fine prints from them!  Even @reysotolongo's ISO 50,000 image looks clean enough to make into a large exhibit quality print. 

The M10 Mono is simply staggering in terms of its low light capability.

Edited by Herr Barnack
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I'm in shock! I thought was very good up to 25,000 or so, but hey, even the 100k in the caves with bending lines, It's a very welcome memory to treasure.

More or less, not considering the Q2M but only M monochrom cameras, which is the best for high iso after the M10M? 

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