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35mm b&w/color film recommendation wanted


gteague

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Tech Pan was a good, really fine grain film, if you used Technidol. I still have some in the freezer and the Technidol too. Not sure if it's still good though. Don't shoot film much these days. This was taken with a Contax RTS III with the vacuum pressure plate to hold the film flat (for what that might be worth).

 

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based on the recommendations here, i've also ordered two rolls of ilford hp4+ which is very expensive $10+ on amazon, but just under $7 on b&h) although the lab i plan to use hasn't yet answered me back about their b&w processing though. /guy

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On 8/31/2020 at 2:15 PM, gteague said:

well, sad news on the rollei 35s oak laurel model. it arrived without a battery cap inside. and i extended the lens according to the manual, but the focus ring wouldn't turn. and when i tried to collapse the lens, it was jammed and i didn't want to force anything. and yes, i had the shutter cocked. :)

called the company and they were very understanding, but the bottom line is that it's going back for a refund. luckily i got the cl in and since i have the digital cl and a couple of /m/ lenses, it's a much better choice anyway. plus, that rollei would have been too small for me to operate easily--the cl's are already pushing my limit there. oh well. /guy

the rollei saga continues. a little. they received the camera and refunded my money very quickly. and then i noticed they had relisted it immediately for $300 more than i paid. wtf says i, as one does. :) so i had sort of bonded with a girl there and i called her back today and she said there was a battery cover, but it was unlike any i'd ever seen apparently. the manual show a regular quarter-size coin slot cover and this one was recessed and had 4 lugs to turn. so, my fault. also, evidently to get the lens retracted you have to hit a button 'next to' the shutter button. there was absolutely no mention of that in the manual nor did i read it in any review i read nor do i remember seeing one. nor do i know why the focus ring wouldn't turn, but my fault as well i guess. but in my defense, they should have known both things when i called before i sent it back. perhaps i bonded so well with the girl she got flummoxed! :) 

as to the instant price increase, she said they had badly mispriced it originally. so i guess i lost out on a rare collector's item as well. 

loser, loser, loser. <sigh> :) :) :) 

/guy

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8 hours ago, gteague said:

 she said there was a battery cover, but it was unlike any i'd ever seen apparently. the manual show a regular quarter-size coin slot cover and this one was recessed and had 4 lugs to turn. so, my fault. also, evidently to get the lens retracted you have to hit a button 'next to' the shutter button. there was absolutely no mention of that in the manual nor did i read it in any review i read nor do i remember seeing one. nor do i know why the focus ring wouldn't turn, but my fault as well i guess. but in my defense, they should have known both things when i called before i sent it back. perhaps i bonded so well with the girl she got flummoxed! :) 


loser, loser, loser. <sigh> :) :) :) 

/guy

The 4 lug battery cover is the standard cover for the Rollei 35 as is the need to push the button to retract the lens. Perhaps you had the wrong manual. Very sorry that you missed out but keep looking.

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13 hours ago, gteague said:

the rollei saga continues. a little. they received the camera and refunded my money very quickly. and then i noticed they had relisted it immediately for $300 more than i paid. wtf says i, as one does. :) so i had sort of bonded with a girl there and i called her back today and she said there was a battery cover, but it was unlike any i'd ever seen apparently. the manual show a regular quarter-size coin slot cover and this one was recessed and had 4 lugs to turn. so, my fault. also, evidently to get the lens retracted you have to hit a button 'next to' the shutter button. there was absolutely no mention of that in the manual nor did i read it in any review i read nor do i remember seeing one. nor do i know why the focus ring wouldn't turn, but my fault as well i guess. but in my defense, they should have known both things when i called before i sent it back. perhaps i bonded so well with the girl she got flummoxed! :) 

as to the instant price increase, she said they had badly mispriced it originally. so i guess i lost out on a rare collector's item as well. 

loser, loser, loser. <sigh> :) :) :) 

/guy

In the following, the 1st is the original battery cover, the 2nd  is the battery adapter to use LR44 to replace the original 625 battery (no voltage conversion). The 3rd is the adapter with voltage conversion.

https://www.ebay.com/itm/Pure-Authentic-Rollei-35-35T-35-Series-Battery-Lid/233674310576?hash=item36681303b0:g:MasAAOSwndZfLrMo

https://www.ebay.com/itm/New-1pc-Film-Camera-Battery-Adapter-PX625-for-ROLLEI-35-OM1-L17/254161896963?hash=item3b2d3ac603:g:FOwAAOSwKF1dGq6j

https://www.ebay.com/itm/PX-625-Replacement-Battery-Adapter-MR-9-f-SR43-f-Rollei-35/143555296972?hash=item216c8ffecc:g:lI8AAOSwHr1ebStT

Next time, if you get another Rollei 35S and if you want to use battery conversion adapter, check if the camera has been modified to take 1.55v battery, if it is the original light meter (1.25v), you will need the adapter with voltage conversion (the 3rd), if it has been modified to 1.55v, you will need the 2nd.

However, I strongly recommend 35SE or 35TE instead of 35s/35T/35. The main reason is the battery accessibility. the 35SE/35TE can replace the battery (on the top of the camera) without opening the film back. This is especially important if you use zinc air or Alkal battery which need to be replaced very frequently. You almost always need to replace it when you are in the middle of the film.  The light meter (LED type) in 35SE/35TE is also much more reliable (impact proof).

You might find some online comments about the 35SE/35TE "useless LED light meter, can't tell how far it is from the correct exposure", that is absolutely nonsense. You simply turn it back and forth, just like focusing. It is intuitive and in no time. 

 

Edited by Einst_Stein
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10 hours ago, Matlock said:

The 4 lug battery cover is the standard cover for the Rollei 35 as is the need to push the button to retract the lens. Perhaps you had the wrong manual. Very sorry that you missed out but keep looking.

yeah, i was totally unfamiliar with the camera. the manual was for the 35s and was a photocopy of the pages. but evidently they changed some things for this 'silver' edition and/or they changed the 35s since my manual was copied. tks! /guy

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On 8/28/2020 at 10:11 PM, gteague said:

true' b&w processing

Don’t trust these things in the ‘revival of film’ hype of these days. If you look at the amount of ‘new’ films that have been brought out the last two years it is beyond credibility. Are these all newly produced films, or new packs around old frozen stock with vintage brand names? Some experts in analogue photography say that changing films every time is much less productive than choosing one film and testing its best developers and its true ISO.

I would, like other members here, go for FP4+ because it has very nice deep blacks with various developers and it has a stable quality and predictability. Labs for B&W development are a fat chance for surprising results each and every time.

Edited by otto.f
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  • 1 month later...

I have seen a bit on the forums concerning Formapan BW 400 but not a lot....anyone care to chime in anew here? I find Formapan BW 400 to be grainier than TriX...    But something to toss in the mix here as long as BW film being talked about.... 

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On 10/29/2020 at 6:04 AM, lmans said:

I have seen a bit on the forums concerning Formapan BW 400 but not a lot....anyone care to chime in anew here? I find Formapan BW 400 to be grainier than TriX...    But something to toss in the mix here as long as BW film being talked about.... 

Fomapan is generally considered a good economy BW film. 

Another popular economy quality BW film is  Kentmere (same manufacture of Ilford). 

If price is sensitive. These could be a good starting choices. Among the two I prefer Kentmere. But none is more preferred to Ilford or Kodak. 

A safe definitely no regret and excellent choice is Ilford HP5. I would suggest try it first as anyone’s base choice before exploring any other B&W.

Or, simply jump to Kodak Tri-X and Tmax to the one stop final choice.

 

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5 hours ago, lmans said:

I always shoot TriX....just thought I would pick up a few rolls of Formapan to see the results. They are 'unusual' to say the least. 🙂 

Then just go ahead to try it. Since you meant to be an exploration, Other’s  opinion you would hardly take anyway. 

Sometimes, you really want to try local food or local wine, who care what is the rating or opinion!

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Thanks for the information you provided. I have been experimenting with Formapan and do prefer TriX, but ..I do appreciate the knowledge you provided about an economy film. $ wise, not too sure as I got some from B & H for 24 count which might actually have been more expensive that what B & H sells TriX 36 count for 🙂 ...but I hear you on the 'economy' as a bit less in quality. 

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34 minutes ago, lmans said:

Thanks for the information you provided. I have been experimenting with Formapan and do prefer TriX, but ..I do appreciate the knowledge you provided about an economy film. $ wise, not too sure as I got some from B & H for 24 count which might actually have been more expensive that what B & H sells TriX 36 count for 🙂 ...but I hear you on the 'economy' as a bit less in quality. 

Price-wise, I would order either 100ft or 36exp . Or go for Ariana (freestyle photo rebranded)!

A film has its own personality, which can be hardly called quality. By quality I mean quality control or consistency. As you may know, not every batch of the same film behaves the same. 

Among the “economy” BE films, Kentmere only has 135 format, although I like it, the lack of 120 format is a drawback. Fomapan covers more format. If it matters for you, it would be one more plus.

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I need to get into rolling my own.....I watched a small You Tube video on it last night and not difficult and obviously cost effective. But, what rolls do you suggest as via B and H I see a couple offered and both get poor ratings (felt issues, or light). 

Edited by lmans
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2 hours ago, lmans said:

I need to get into rolling my own.....I watched a small You Tube video on it last night and not difficult and obviously cost effective. But, what rolls do you suggest as via B and H I see a couple offered and both get poor ratings (felt issues, or light). 

Most BW film review on youtube I have found are useless to the least, if not misleading. Mainly the non-C41 BW film is strongly dependent on the lighting, exposure, and development, far far more so than E6 or C41. The reviews. I saw were usually boring objects under boring lighting. The useful review I found are usually about the better practice in developing. Even so, they could be very personal, easy to find disagree. You just have to try and use it as the first guide. I take those as the restaurant reviews. You might get the idea of how the setting of the environment, but the taste of the food?  Your call.

The films I chose were usually after visiting a gallery. If I find a beautiful tonality, I would ask the photographer which film and anyhow to develop.  Sometime I do the same thing when I saw online gallery, but it is not as useful as the true gallery.

One thing I learn from choosing a non-C41 BW film is to have a faith on the film. If it does not look as good as I expect, I always assume it's me, not the film, then follow the faith to make it better. Eventually I learned some films are better in terms of controllability and consistency, besides it's tonal appearance. 

Since you are interested in Fomapan, go searching for web gallery you like to get a feeling how it looks to you then try to get that feeling by yourself. Core example, try Flickr.com.search for fomapan (or any other film in your mind, Just one film at a time).

 

Edited by Einst_Stein
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2 hours ago, lmans said:

I need to get into rolling my own.....I watched a small You Tube video on it last night and not difficult and obviously cost effective. But, what rolls do you suggest as via B and H I see a couple offered and both get poor ratings (felt issues, or light). 

I think Imans is asking about reloadable film cassettes. If so, my suggestions in descending order are:

For LTM Leica - Leitz FILCA

For M Leica up to early M6 -  Leitz IXMOO

For Nikon S or F - Nikon Film Cassete

For Nikon F2 - Nikon AM 1

For any 35mm camera - Kodak Snap Cap

For any 35mm camera - older used 35mm cassettes. Until you learn what the good ones look like, hold the cassette firmly with the extension facing down and strike it hard on a solid surface. If the cap on the other end pops off you are good to go. Otherwise the crimping is too tight and will prevent the cassette from being reloaded successfully.

For any 35mm camera - if none of the above work for you just buy a small number of both the plastic and the metal cassettes - they're cheap - and see which works best for you.

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2 hours ago, lmans said:

Yes...looking at options for the cassettes. Sorry if I mislead. I will be on the lookout for. Everyone once in a while I run into photo supplies someone is offering..... Jim

https://www.ebay.com/itm/50-Empty-35mm-Film-cassettes-all-FujiFilm-Green/143571690605?_trkparms=aid%3D111001%26algo%3DREC.SEED%26ao%3D1%26asc%3D20160908105057%26meid%3D86eb311b28a2465d9393da6fa3fda582%26pid%3D100675%26rk%3D1%26rkt%3D15%26mehot%3Dnone%26sd%3D143571690605%26itm%3D143571690605%26pmt%3D0%26noa%3D1%26pg%3D2380057%26brand%3DFujifilm&_trksid=p2380057.c100675.m4236&_trkparms=pageci%3A90dff388-1bad-11eb-a6d0-daedd67e678c|parentrq%3A8016de9a1750aad7249b4b49fff80906|iid%3A1

I am very happy about this:

I found normally the canister is not really reusable, but good enough for 3-5 runs. So buying the lightly more expensive reusable canister is not really necessary.

If you decide to get this, tape your film lead to the short tongue left out the canister. When shooting to the end of your film, try not to rewind to the end (or else you will have to retrieve the film out of the canister, not terribly difficult, but I try to avoid that).

After each roll, make a mark how many rolls this canister has gone through. Abandon it after enough rolls (not scientific, I limit myself for 5 rolls).

 

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