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M10-P or M10R


rsoby

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I have a few of the wide angle Leica lenses that I use on my M10R. I like the lenses, but while the rectangular lens caps are cleverly designed, they have a tendency to get knocked off the lens hood when walking about. I’ve nearly lost one of them several times, once having to retrace my foot steps to lucky find it on the ground near a picnic table I had sat at and another time my partner found one lying on the ground in an outside stairwell at an inn we were staying at before I had even noticed it was missing. With usage their purchase on the lens hood becomes less secure. Given that they are just molded plastic, their replacement cost is exorbitant. It seems to me some clever engineer could come up with an equally convenient but more secure lens cover.

Leica, are you listening? 

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3 hours ago, Wandering Photographer said:

I have a few of the wide angle Leica lenses that I use on my M10R. I like the lenses, but while the rectangular lens caps are cleverly designed, they have a tendency to get knocked off the lens hood when walking about. I’ve nearly lost one of them several times, once having to retrace my foot steps to lucky find it on the ground near a picnic table I had sat at and another time my partner found one lying on the ground in an outside stairwell at an inn we were staying at before I had even noticed it was missing. With usage their purchase on the lens hood becomes less secure. Given that they are just molded plastic, their replacement cost is exorbitant. It seems to me some clever engineer could come up with an equally convenient but more secure lens cover.

Leica, are you listening? 

I think the M lens caps are only when you store in the bag. 

Since the film days it is tradition to be ready to shoot and not have a lens caps especially if you have a lens shade to protect it. I think you do only once the mistake of shooting true the rangefinder to only contemplate why you photos didn't come out because you had the lens cap on.

If you ask the Leica store Miami for alternative lens caps they can serve you with one that holds better from some other company that goes over the rectangular lens shade

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On 6/19/2021 at 4:04 AM, otto.f said:

I made several photo’s with the Summicron 28 asph ii on the M10-R and had movement blur at even 1/1000 😳.

Can you confirm if it's really movement blur though? At that shutter speed and 28mm, one can probably shot with single hand even at 40mp.

Something sparked my interests when I came across this phenomenon recently when browsing M10-R dng's - some lenses are perhaps finally showing their optical character on 40mp sensor. I noticed the 35mm cron asph even had smears outside of center 1/3 @ f5.6 and 1/1000. Center was sharp as one can expect but as you go to the edges you start to see motion blur like smears.

 

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10 minutes ago, Casey Jefferson said:

Can you confirm if it's really movement blur though? At that shutter speed and 28mm, one can probably shot with single hand even at 40mp.

Something sparked my interests when I came across this phenomenon recently when browsing M10-R dng's - some lenses are perhaps finally showing their optical character on 40mp sensor. I noticed the 35mm cron asph even had smears outside of center 1/3 @ f5.6 and 1/1000. Center was sharp as one can expect but as you go to the edges you start to see motion blur like smears.

 

Could also be shutter shock.

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23 minutes ago, Casey Jefferson said:

Can you confirm if it's really movement blur though? At that shutter speed and 28mm, one can probably shot with single hand even at 40mp.

Something sparked my interests when I came across this phenomenon recently when browsing M10-R dng's - some lenses are perhaps finally showing their optical character on 40mp sensor. I noticed the 35mm cron asph even had smears outside of center 1/3 @ f5.6 and 1/1000. Center was sharp as one can expect but as you go to the edges you start to see motion blur like smears.

 

Yes it puzzles me, here are a few examples, they are the first two or three photo's with the M10-R when trying it out. After that I see no movement blur in 130 photo's except in a few photo's of poppies in the wind, of which a few are tacksharp too. The focus point in all these images was the brickwall in the back @f2.0, so a bit unsharpness at the foreground is logical but the bike near the wall is unsharper than expected so close to the focuspoint, I'm not used that sort of 'bokeh' from my dear Summicron28. And the bricks themselves are not what you call... They were made in single shooting mode, not continuous

 

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10 minutes ago, davorb said:

Could also be shutter shock.

I thought this was the privilege of SLR's, caused by the mirror bouncing up, that's why I stepped over to M 😁

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58 minutes ago, otto.f said:

Yes it puzzles me, here are a few examples, they are the first two or three photo's with the M10-R when trying it out. After that I see no movement blur in 130 photo's except in a few photo's of poppies in the wind, of which a few are tacksharp too. The focus point in all these images was the brickwall in the back @f2.0, so a bit unsharpness at the foreground is logical but the bike near the wall is unsharper than expected so close to the focuspoint, I'm not used that sort of 'bokeh' from my dear Summicron28. And the bricks themselves are not what you call... They were made in single shooting mode, not continuous

 

Welcome, dear visitor! As registered member you'd see an image here…

Simply register for free here – We are always happy to welcome new members!

 

 

If it's shot wide open, it's not uncommon for Leica M lens though, at least I know both my 28 and 35 cron asph V1 exhibit this unsharp edges at f2 and gradually go away as one stop down. However since yours a V2 which should provide a lot better edge and corner performances. Moreover, the unsharp edges should be only just that - soft and unsharp, but if you do see smearing like motion blur, it could be something else? Or these lenses simply just show what they really render like under high resolution sensors.

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2 hours ago, otto.f said:

I thought this was the privilege of SLR's, caused by the mirror bouncing up, that's why I stepped over to M 😁

No, it's on mirrorless too. On the r5 they have electronic 1st curtain turned on by default, instead of pure mechanical shutter, to deal with shutter shock. It's much more noticeable at 45+ MPs.

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8 hours ago, Photoworks said:

I think the M lens caps are only when you store in the bag. 

Since the film days it is tradition to be ready to shoot and not have a lens caps especially if you have a lens shade to protect it. I think you do only once the mistake of shooting true the rangefinder to only contemplate why you photos didn't come out because you had the lens cap on.

If you ask the Leica store Miami for alternative lens caps they can serve you with one that holds better from some other company that goes over the rectangular lens shade

I typically focus with the range finder and then frame with the Visoflex on my M10-R, so leaving the lens cap on when trying to take a picture is a rare event. I am not able to see all 4 frame markers in the range finder view finder without moving my head with the 28 mm lens. I take the camera on hikes in the woods and use the lens cap to provide protection for the very expensive lens. Same with the 21 mm and 16-18-21 mm Elmar. 
 

Do you have the URL or other contact information for the Miami Leica store? Is that an official Leica Store like the one in Washington DC or an independent store specializing in Leica equipment?

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3 hours ago, Wandering Photographer said:

I typically focus with the range finder and then frame with the Visoflex on my M10-R, so leaving the lens cap on when trying to take a picture is a rare event. I am not able to see all 4 frame markers in the range finder view finder without moving my head with the 28 mm lens. I take the camera on hikes in the woods and use the lens cap to provide protection for the very expensive lens. Same with the 21 mm and 16-18-21 mm Elmar. 
 

Do you have the URL or other contact information for the Miami Leica store? Is that an official Leica Store like the one in Washington DC or an independent store specializing in Leica equipment?

https://leicastoremiami.com

Email: info@leicastoremiami.com

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I could never get a reliably sharp image with my d800e, and the A7r wasn’t much better, whereas the larger pixels on the X1D II were a dream.  I thought it was motion blur, as described by Ming.  But that doesn’t explain how the TL2 doesn’t suffer from the same issue, also with its smaller pixel.

I don’t doubt @Steven in his findings.  They concur with my own.  I suspect the explanation @Jaap gave some pages back might be the answer.

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Hm, I have been shooting with a m10r for some months now and have not run into the "blur-problem". If I had not read it in this thread I wouldnt even know there is a problem.

I am not shooting much low light though.

If I find the time I will shoot SL" and m10r side by side and see if there is a difference.

At what shutter times do I have to expect it?

 

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  • 2 weeks later...
On 6/19/2021 at 8:24 AM, Photoworks said:

 

I like the natural grain structure of the new sensor much more, and the colors seam spot on and much more natural.

 

I can agree with that. And this was the reason I decided this week for the M10-R. Quite a thing for such a loyal M9 user like me, but the colors convinced me. If they appear too saturated or not very well white-balaced in some situations they are much easier to get them neutral than the 24Mp M10's. After a bit of getting used to it, I'm very positive about the image character, beautiful noise indeed and a sharpness which comes across much less 'digital' than other recent Leica camera's.

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20 minutes ago, Steven said:

Who is Neil ? He sounds so lovely. 

Steven, I get a kick out of your posts. And they remind me of another enthusiastic forum member who no longer posts here. It was meant as a reference to him. But I couldn’t figure from your two posts if you print or not. In one you said you get good prints and in another you said printing was extinct. I was confused. 

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When I get a photo that my wife considers worth printing, I get an excellent firm in Scotland to print it for me. Loxley Colour is their name. Turnaround is very quick. Then Petersfield Framery does the biggest and most expensive part by doing the framing. Well worth it. Anyway, I have led this topic away from the question. I am sure the IQ of the R is amazing.

24MP is better IQ than the  best analogue film results. The M10-P provides 24MP. I said the same when our old 1950s 405 line B&W TV was replaced by a 625 line Colour TV in the mid 1960s. That has been surpassed at an amazing rate.

The M10-R is definitely the way ahead. Sadly my eyes can't appreciate anything better than the best slide film using finest quality 24 DIN. So I think I will stick at this point.

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8 hours ago, Likaleica said:

Steven, I get a kick out of your posts. And they remind me of another enthusiastic forum member who no longer posts here. It was meant as a reference to him. But I couldn’t figure from your two posts if you print or not. In one you said you get good prints and in another you said printing was extinct. I was confused. 

Like in quantum-mechanics, people can also hold a superposition over A and -A. Take me for instance, I repeatedly said here that I won’t ever sell my M9 and my MM1. And I did last week, swapped them for an M10-R. It’s a strange world we’re living in, consistency is overrated.

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9 hours ago, Likaleica said:

Steven, I get a kick out of your posts. And they remind me of another enthusiastic forum member who no longer posts here. It was meant as a reference to him. But I couldn’t figure from your two posts if you print or not. In one you said you get good prints and in another you said printing was extinct. I was confused. 

I wish I printed, but I don't have the time or energy to learn.  I don't even have the space right now! I've tried a couple times but nothing serious. 

And while I enjoy owning nice prints by other photographers, I enjoy my photos more viewed on a compter screen than on paper. 

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