Favorite Fully Mechanical Leica R camera?

[Mona]

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10 hours ago, telyt said:

The 60mm Macro-Elmarit-R can use standard filters.  The early versions can use an E60 filter, the later versions use a 55mm filter.

So I do have the earlier version of the 60mm Elmarit R. So with the E60 filter, the the numeric “60” corresponds with the diameter of the lens - 60mm - correct? Bc if that’s the case, the diameter of my lens is (I believe) 62mm. That would mean the E60 wouldn’t fit.

[otto.f]

I have had it with R bodies. First an R5 which gave all sorts of problems after 6 months, of which lightleaks were the least. Unusable in any case. Then my wonderful R6.2, after same period of using: light leaks, mirror got stuck, etc etc. There you go with your all mechanical, repairable camera idea. In that age (after SL etc.), I always said, Leica can’t make reflex camera’s. And it is sort of true. Stick to M if you want Leica. Some R lenses are invincible though...

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[masjah]

14 hours ago, telyt said:

The 60mm Macro-Elmarit-R can use standard filters.  The early versions can use an E60 filter, the later versions use a 55mm filter.

 

3 hours ago, Mona said:

So I do have the earlier version of the 60mm Elmarit R. So with the E60 filter, the the numeric “60” corresponds with the diameter of the lens - 60mm - correct? Bc if that’s the case, the diameter of my lens is (I believe) 62mm. That would mean the E60 wouldn’t fit.

My understanding is that earlier versions of this lens used a Series 7 filter, whereas later versions use an E55 filter. I don't think any ever had an E60 filter. The Series 7 filter comprises an unmounted glass disc which drops into a mounting ring, which in turn screws into the lens. You don't need a lens hood to do this, though some lens hoods will alternatively allow the glass disc to be dropped in and then be screwed into the lens.  The E55 filter is an integrated filter glass mounted in a ring. The "official" Leica Series 7 mounting ring is I think 14161, though Series 7 rings from other manufacturers should mount OK. You then also need the Series 7 blank filter glass of whatever type (coloured, UV, IR or whatever) you need.

 

[Canonier]

masjah is right, the older version of the 60mm/2.8 does not have an E60 thread. You need to live with the series VII system.

[wlaidlaw]

If anyone is considering a Leica reflex camera that originally required a mercury PX625 battery, there is a new alternative to using an MR-9 regulated adapter for SR43 or 44 silver oxide cells or the very expensive and quite short life Wein 625 zinc/air cells. It is this 625 adapter which uses the quite cheap PR 44 1.35V hearing aid cells https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/1-35V-MR-9-PX625-MRB625-Adapter-Battery-For-Film-Camera-Light-Meter-MADE-IN-UK/173228970297?ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT&_trksid=p2057872.m2749.l2649 Because there are no electronics in it, there is nothing to go wrong like on the expensive MR-9 regulated adapters, where I have had two of these fail on me. The downside is that you will have to change the PR44 battery more frequently than the SR43/44 battery but you can buy 12 Duracell PR44 batteries for just £4-95 so not expensive. I have recently bought one of these adapters and it works perfectly in my M5. The metering which was reading close to 2 stops too high with a new PX625A alkaline battery, which I keep for the viewfinder illumination circuit in my SL2, is now as accurate as probably they ever were. 

Wilson

PS I would not recommend these for use in the film CL, as you can only change the battery on a CL by opening the film compartment. If the little PR44 zinc/air button cell runs out in the middle of a film, you would have to put up with no metering until you change the film. Ditto using a Wein 625 cell. I use one of my working MR-9 adapters in it. On these it is important to use silver oxide button cells and not alkaline as the silver oxide has a much flatter voltage/discharge graph. There are unscrupulous sellers on eBay and Amazon selling cheap "no name" alkaline type 43 or 44 button cells faked as Duracell silver oxide. I was caught. W

Edited September 30, 2020 by wlaidlaw

[masjah]

25 minutes ago, wlaidlaw said:

If anyone is considering a Leica reflex camera that originally required a mercury PX625 battery, there is a new alternative to using an MR-9 regulated adapter for SR43 or 44 silver oxide cells or the very expensive and quite short life Wein 625 zinc/air cells. It is this 625 adapter which uses the quite cheap PR 44 1.35V hearing aid cells https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/1-35V-MR-9-PX625-MRB625-Adapter-Battery-For-Film-Camera-Light-Meter-MADE-IN-UK/173228970297?ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT&_trksid=p2057872.m2749.l2649 Because there are no electronics in it, there is nothing to go wrong like on the expensive MR-9 regulated adapters, where I have had two of these fail on me. The downside is that you will have to change the PR44 battery more frequently than the SR43/44 battery but you can buy 12 Duracell PR44 batteries for just £4-95 so not expensive. I have recently bought one of these adapters and it works perfectly in my M5. The metering which was reading close to 2 stops too high with a new PX625A alkaline battery, which I keep for the viewfinder illumination circuit in my SL2, is now as accurate as probably they ever were. 

Wilson

PS I would not recommend these for use in the film CL, as you can only change the battery on a CL by opening the film compartment. If the little PR44 zinc/air button cell runs out in the middle of a film, you would have to put up with no metering until you change the film. Ditto using a Wein 625 cell. I use one of my working MR-9 adapters in it. On these it is important to use silver oxide button cells and not alkaline as the silver oxide has a much flatter voltage/discharge graph. There are unscrupulous sellers on eBay and Amazon selling cheap "no name" alkaline type 43 or 44 button cells faked as Duracell silver oxide. I was caught. W

Wilson, this seems a good compromise. Presumably the hearing aid batteries use the same technology (zinc/air) as the Wein cell, but at a fraction of the cost.  Presumably the lifetime would be shorter though than that of an actual 625 Wein cell, because of the smaller size, but the ma/h cost should be much less.

It's a shame that you've found the adapters which change the size and drop the voltage to enable use of an SR44 silver oxide cells to be unreliable, because they could give the best of both worlds (that is correct size and voltage together with a better lifespan). I would have thought they wouldn't employ much more in the way of electronics than a single forward biased Schottky diode, so presumably it's the heat dissipation in the confined space that eventually finishes them off (diode forward voltage drop multiplied by  operating current).

 

[TomB_tx]

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On 9/26/2020 at 12:00 PM, otto.f said:

I have had it with R bodies. First an R5 which gave all sorts of problems after 6 months, of which lightleaks were the least. Unusable in any case. Then my wonderful R6.2, after same period of using: light leaks, mirror got stuck, etc etc. There you go with your all mechanical, repairable camera idea. In that age (after SL etc.), I always said, Leica can’t make reflex camera’s. And it is sort of true. Stick to M if you want Leica. Some R lenses are invincible though...

Although I still enjoy my R bodies, this is valid criticism. Last time I asked DAG about repairing my R4 he explained that he will no longer repair/service Leica R bodies, as they are now too unreliable, and something else tends to break down after fixing one fault. After that I added an R7, which is still working, but I can't trust it. I've gone back to my Leicaflex models.

[wlaidlaw]

John, 

I find the MR-9 adapters last about 6 to 8 years depending on usage. The one in my CL needs to be "woken" up by doing a voltage test three or four times. It then works properly for a few days before it goes back to sleep. The newer one that used to be in my chrome MR-4 Leicameter and is now in my SL2, is currently well behaved. I don't think it is the Schottky diode that dies but the tiny electrolytic capacitor on the circuit board (I took a dead MR-9 apart). I could not measure any capacitance on it, so I think it was dead. 

Wilson

[andrew01]

1 hour ago, TomB_tx said:

Although I still enjoy my R bodies, this is valid criticism. Last time I asked DAG about repairing my R4 he explained that he will no longer repair/service Leica R bodies, as they are now too unreliable, and something else tends to break down after fixing one fault. After that I added an R7, which is still working, but I can't trust it. I've gone back to my Leicaflex models.

Such a shame, since the R cameras tick so many boxes that other cameras don’t.  Perhaps foolishly I have traded my R8 for a R6.2.  It is very late production (27xxx) so hopefully I will be lucky with reliability. I purchased from a dealer with a warranty, it arrives tomorrow.

[hamey]

9 hours ago, andrew01 said:

Such a shame, since the R cameras tick so many boxes that other cameras don’t.  Perhaps foolishly I have traded my R8 for a R6.2.  

They certainly did, for their time they were very advance the R4 had a better metering system then the Nikon F3, still have the F3 but the R4 and R4s were traded in on the R7.

Love the R8, has never let me down and once again I think the Metering is better then my F6's but the Nikon F6 is better in focusing especially to my eyes.

I can only say that I loved the R system, most models that I have owned have been very good with the exception of the R4  which returned back to germany for a re-fit.

Good Luck on your R6.2, personally I preferred the R7, have two and they also have never let me down, after the Leicaflex SL I never wanted another Manual body.

Ken.

 

 

 

 

[otto.f]

14 hours ago, TomB_tx said:

something else tends to break down after fixing one fault.

Exactly, that’s what happened with my R5 and even with my R6.2

[andrew01]

I just received my R6.2 and so far it seems to pass the main QC concerns.  The depth of field preview is not stiff and the shutter delay is not abnormal.  No crazy paving inside the mirror box.  The build quality and mechanical precision have exceeded my expectations. Looking forward to testing with a film.

Edited October 1, 2020 by andrew01

[telyt]

On 9/28/2020 at 12:22 PM, Canonier said:

masjah is right, the older version of the 60mm/2.8 does not have an E60 thread. You need to live with the series VII system.

No, masjah is incorrect.  The older version uses either Series VIII filters using the hood as a filter holder, or E60.  How do I know?  I have this lens and I have used both types of filters with it.

The engraved '60' on the lens means it's a 60mm (focal length) lens.

 

Later versions of this lens use either Series VII (with filter retaining ring 14225) or E55 filters.

Edited November 6, 2020 by telyt

[masjah]

2 hours ago, telyt said:

No, masjah is incorrect.  The older version uses either Series VIII filters using the hood as a filter holder, or E60.  How do I know?  I have this lens and I have used both types of filters with it.

The engraved '60' on the lens means it's a 60mm (focal length) lens.

 

Later versions of this lens use either Series VII (with filter retaining ring 14225) or E55 filters.

Telyt, I'm very happy to stand corrected. So are 14225 and 14161 both Series 7 retaining rings?

[Keith (M)]

6 hours ago, telyt said:

 

Later versions of this lens use either Series VII (with filter retaining ring 14225) or E55 filters.

FWIIW, my 60mm Macro Elmarit-R ser. no. 3278xxx is the later type (11253) and takes E55 filters.  

As an aside, I have wondered about the advisability of using a filter when the front element of the lens is set so far back.  Yes, the 'tunnel' is matt-black and ridged but...

[telyt]

18 hours ago, masjah said:

Telyt, I'm very happy to stand corrected. So are 14225 and 14161 both Series 7 retaining rings?

14255 is the Series VII retaining ring for E55 lenses, 14161 is the Series VII retaining ring for older (pre-E55) lenses.  These older lenses have an E54 thread.

[telyt]

14 hours ago, Keith (M) said:

... I have wondered about the advisability of using a filter when the front element of the lens is set so far back.  Yes, the 'tunnel' is matt-black and ridged but...

I only use a filter when a specific effect is desired i.e., a polarizing filter or ND filter, but there are many dimensions to this topic including and most importantly personal preferences and aversion to risk.