Brightness sensor cover missing or fell off from brand new M10M

[Atlantic Shark]

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I'm just going to buy a new one and sell this one for $250 or so off list. I'm sickened by this camera I don't even want to use it. When I buy something this expensive I expect it to at least give me the opportunity to mess it up, and not that I am forced into messing it up because it already came messed up and took weeks to wait for me to deal with.

[lykaman]

6 minutes ago, Atlantic Shark said:

I'm just going to buy a new one and sell this one for $250 or so off list. I'm sickened by this camera I don't even want to use it. When I buy something this expensive I expect it to at least give me the opportunity to mess it up, and not that I am forced into messing it up because it already came messed up and took weeks to wait for me to deal with.

We all know that sick feeling of something new being less than perfect. We had a Maserati that was more like a meccano set,  my first brand new M-P240 Safari Set was totally useless.. Have a glass of your choice, box it up and move On... L

[farnz]

<sadly shakes head> Let me get this straight: your camera's screw falls out somehow, Leica sorts it out by immediately sending you the replacement part free of charge, you cross-thread the new screw, you then scratch your camera trying to get it out again, and this is Leica's fault?  Wow.

[Atlantic Shark]

A $9k camera shouldn’t require assembly and sorting it out would mean also shipping a proper screwdriver. I’ll dump it on the market for $4k. These cameras should be priced accordingly. 

[farnz]

No, you're right they shouldn't.  But putting it on the market for $4k will cost you $5k and I feel sure that Leica would replace the top plate complete with new screw for a fraction of that.  If you're determined to get shot of the camera it couldn't hurt to ask the question and, who knows, it might save you thousands.

Pete.

[Atlantic Shark]

1 hour ago, farnz said:

No, you're right they shouldn't.  But putting it on the market for $4k will cost you $5k and I feel sure that Leica would replace the top plate complete with new screw for a fraction of that.  If you're determined to get shot of the camera it couldn't hurt to ask the question and, who knows, it might save you thousands.

Pete.

Fair point. I already have a buyer at $7k. I'll see what they can do but more importantly how long it will take.

[lucerne]

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Replacement top plate supplied and fitted will be about $600 according to a LUF member who posted a report in May after getting advice from The mothership.

 

[Mikep996]

Well, the screw is clearly cross-threaded.  Here are three possibilities for removal that don't involve drilling a hole in the screw.

You could try some "cold" spray on the screw https://www.amazon.com/MG-Chemicals-Super-Spray-Aerosol/dp/B0047Y9DKS/ref=sr_1_3?dchild=1&hvadid=78340339639981&hvbmt=be&hvdev=c&hvqmt=e&keywords=electronic+cold+spray&qid=1592171053&sr=8-3&tag=mh0b-20  That may cause the screw to contract sufficiently to relax it's hold and allow unscrewing with very little pressure.

OR

You may be able to remove the screw by using a wood or plastic rod with one end shaped as a screw driver.  Insert the blade into the screw slot at an angle at the very outside part of the slot to apply pressure in the counterclockwise (unscrewing) direction and tap the other end of the rod with a very small hammer.  The idea is to have the "shock" in the unscrewing direction on the edge of the screw slot, with as little as possible downward force.  A real screwdriver would be more effective but apply a couple layers of masking tape on the camera body to avoid scratches if anything slips.  

OR

Using a dab of JB Weld two-part epoxy, attach a small nut to the screw, being CAREFUL not to get any of the epoxy on the camera body.    After epoxy cures, remove the nut (and screw) with an appropriate sized 1/4" drive socket.

 

Re installation - With screws such as that, fingers don't work well to install them.  You can't 'feel' if you have properly aligned the threads and it is easy to cross thread, as you have discovered.   A way to install such a screw with little chance of that happening is to use some Blu-Tack https://www.amazon.com/Blu-Tack-S050Q-Reusable-Adhesive-75g/dp/B001FGLX72   Put a small piece of it on a small dowel or the eraser-end of a pencil.  Stick the screw to the blu-tack.  Hold the dowel/pencil and align the screw carefully with the fitting and screw it in. This is much easier to do because you can easily see the alignment without your fingers being in the way. If it cross threads, the blutack will just slip and the screw will not go in far enough to lock up.  Just unscrew it and do it until you get it right.

As far as a proper screwdriver - any decent set of gun screwdrivers would have a driver bit that would perfectly fit that screw - at least before it was buggered.  BUT, buying a good gun driver set is a bit expensive for a one-time use!

Well, the screw is clearly cross-threaded.  Here are three possibilities for removal that don't involve drilling a hole in the screw.

You could try some "cold" spray on the screw https://www.amazon.com/MG-Chemicals-Super-Spray-Aerosol/dp/B0047Y9DKS/ref=sr_1_3?dchild=1&hvadid=78340339639981&hvbmt=be&hvdev=c&hvqmt=e&keywords=electronic+cold+spray&qid=1592171053&sr=8-3&tag=mh0b-20  That may cause the screw to contract sufficiently to relax it's hold and allow unscrewing with very little pressure.

OR

You may be able to remove the screw by using a wood or plastic rod with one end shaped as a screw driver.  Insert the blade into the screw slot at an angle at the very outside part of the slot to apply pressure in the counterclockwise (unscrewing) direction and tap the other end of the rod with a very small hammer.  The idea is to have the "shock" in the unscrewing direction on the edge of the screw slot, with as little as possible downward force.  A real screwdriver would be more effective but apply a couple layers of masking tape on the camera body to avoid scratches if anything slips.  

OR

Using a dab of JB Weld two-part epoxy, attach a small nut to the screw, being CAREFUL not to get any of the epoxy on the camera body.    After epoxy cures, remove the nut (and screw) with an appropriate sized 1/4" drive socket.

 

Re installation - With screws such as that, fingers don't work well to install them.  You can't 'feel' if you have properly aligned the threads and it is easy to cross thread, as you have discovered.   A way to install such a screw with little chance of that happening is to use some Blu-Tack https://www.amazon.com/Blu-Tack-S050Q-Reusable-Adhesive-75g/dp/B001FGLX72   Put a small piece of it on a small dowel or the eraser-end of a pencil.  Stick the screw to the blu-tack.  Hold the dowel/pencil and align the screw carefully with the fitting and screw it in. This is much easier to do because you can easily see the alignment without your fingers being in the way. If it cross threads, the blutack will just slip and the screw will not go in far enough to lock up.  Just unscrew it and do it until you get it right.

As far as a proper screwdriver - any decent set of gun screwdrivers would have a driver bit that would perfectly fit that screw - at least before it was buggered.  BUT, buying a good gun driver set is a bit expensive for a one-time use!

[Mikep996]

Not sure how I managed to put the same twice into one post but...oh well

[Atlantic Shark]

This story ends as such: I sold it for $6500 on a trade in for three vintage Leica lenses (Summicron, Elmar) and got ~$1k off the asking prices thereof, while also re-buying the M10M from the same seller but for $200 less given the circumstances. Net hit was around $400 and a half a bottle of gin. Could have been worse. 

[Mikep996]

Wouldn't the same seller have simply exchanged your new camera w/missing screw with another new camera in the first place?  I thought the issue was that you didn't want to go through the hassle of going back to the dealer.

[Atlantic Shark]

3 hours ago, Mikep996 said:

Wouldn't the same seller have simply exchanged your new camera w/missing screw with another new camera in the first place?  I thought the issue was that you didn't want to go through the hassle of going back to the dealer.

Because that requires a conflict with the seller who I do not blame. I preserve the relationship for future buys and Move on with a minimal hit than I’ll make up elsewhere.