What is best 28mm lens for M mount?

[Kamyar]

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Hey guys, i need one 28mm lens . I have m10monochrom and Sl2. I need use the lens with both body. So please Suggest me . 

I think about leica 28mm f2.8 ash. 
and 28mm Voigtlander. 
or 25 mm zeiss. 
I know leica 28mm f2 is great. But expensive. 

Edited May 5, 2020 by Kamyar

[AndreasG]

If you do not need frequently the f2, take the 28 ASPH in V1 or V2, or, if on a budget, a used 28 pre ASPH.

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[chasdfg]

In my opinion, the most fuss free solution without going through roundabout buying and selling is the 28mm Summicron v2. I went through a Cron v1, 28lux, 28elmarit asph v2, MS Optics 28mm f2 and finally settled on the Cron v2. I even picked up a 28lux in silver after the Cron v2, but when i went about trimming my lens "collection", the 28lux was sold and I kept the Cron v2. 

The Cron v2 gives a lot in a smaller package - it's small, sharp (I dare say it is as good or better than the 28lux stopped down), has pop and pleasant bokeh (bokeh isn't as nice as the 28lux's, but that lens is in it's own league for portraiture and cinematic images). Corner performance is better than the v1 and it has a smaller metal hood. As the price difference between a new v2 and a used v1 quite great (about twice the price), the v1 actually represents bang for buck. It's 95% the same lens with the same optical formula on paper, and if you want it to be compact you can just shoot without the hood or pick up a smaller hood. If I stuck with my v1 from the start I'd have had a tougher time justifying selling it for a v2

- The Elmarit asph v2 is a very nice lens as it is contrasty and sharp, but I found myself wanting a bit more speed. Also it is very small, so much so it was not well balanced on my M240. With the hood on, it's quite comparable in size to the Cron v2 with hood. Like mentioned by AndreasG, if you don't need the speed, the 28 Elmarit Asphs are a good choice - but I would still pick a Cron v1 over an Elmarit Asph v2 for the same money.

- I did toy with the 28mm Zeiss (not 25mm) but as it was a 2.8 it lacked the extra speed I wanted. I also prefer 6-bit coded lenses.

- The Voigtlander 28mm f2 is a nice lens though in relation to Voigtlander if you do want a 28mm I'd hold off as I suspect they are refreshing their lens lineup and a new 28mm f2 might come sooner rather than later. Also not coded.

- MS-Optics 28mm f2 is a fun little lens but not sharp enough across the frame stopped down for serious work.

Edited May 5, 2020 by chasdfg

[250swb]

15 minutes ago, chasdfg said:

 

- I did toy with the 28mm Zeiss (not 25mm) but as it was a 2.8 it lacked the extra speed I wanted. I also prefer 6-bit coded lenses.

- The Voigtlander 28mm f2 is a nice lens though in relation to Voigtlander if you do want a 28mm I'd hold off as I suspect they are refreshing their lens lineup and a new 28mm f2 might come sooner rather than later. Also not coded.

 

All current Zeiss and Voigtlander M lenses have a shallow rebate machined in the mount specifically so the owner can add coding with black paint.

[MarkP]

+ for the 2.0/28 Summicron ASPH as the best all-rounder.  I have a number of 28mm lenses and this is still my favourite. 

I think there may be some sample variation so check the lens if you decide on it. The reason I say this is that I have a 2.0/28 Summicron ASPH v1 and took home two different v2 lenses to compare with every intention to upgrade.  However, mine overall rendered identically to the new lenses, I could not pick a difference in the centre, and surprisingly the corners were consistently better on my lens. The dealer agreed so I saved myself a lot of money.  You may want to look at a v1 lens.

 

I too have an SL2 and use my M-lenses on it with the Leica M-L adapter. Overall performance is excellent but there is still some smearing on the far edges/corners with WA M-lenses such as the 21 SEM and 24 Super-Elmar. They obviously still perform better on the M cameras.
 

Edited May 5, 2020 by MarkP

[chasdfg]

1 hour ago, 250swb said:

All current Zeiss and Voigtlander M lenses have a shallow rebate machined in the mount specifically so the owner can add coding with black paint.

This I note and it is definitely worth pointing out. For myself, I didn't like the idea of DIY coding the lenses as I had tried to do so before but the IR reader would either not pick up the coding or the coding would rub off (I used a sharpie though, so maybe different story if paint is used). Also, the recommended profiles for the ZM lenses didn't necessarily correspond with the focal length of the lenses. But there are many other solutions.

Further to DIY colouring one could replace the rear mount using a pre-coded one from ebay or send the lens to DAG/3rd party to do so. For my last ZM lens I just used it un-coded, granted it was a 35 1.4, so entirely personal preference and not really a lens fault. There's always manual lens selection.

In the end I decided that an already coded lens is the most fuss free, even if the fuss is minimal.

[250swb]

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8 minutes ago, chasdfg said:

This I note and it is definitely worth pointing out. For myself, I didn't like the idea of DIY coding the lenses as I had tried to do so before but the IR reader would either not pick up the coding or the coding would rub off (I used a sharpie though, so maybe different story if paint is used). Also, the recommended profiles for the ZM lenses didn't necessarily correspond with the focal length of the lenses. But there are many other solutions.

Further to DIY colouring one could replace the rear mount using a pre-coded one from ebay or send the lens to DAG/3rd party to do so. For my last ZM lens I just used it un-coded, granted it was a 35 1.4, so entirely personal preference and not really a lens fault. There's always manual lens selection.

In the end I decided that an already coded lens is the most fuss free, even if the fuss is minimal.

There is no reason the paint would rub off, that is the point of the machined rebate in the mount, it is lower than the mating surface so the paint is protected. As regards the recommended codes for the Zeiss lenses not matching exactly a Leica code this is exactly the same 'problem' with any uncoded lens, and the answer is to code it according your own personal preference, the camera will not start to smoke if you choose a code you like the results of better than the 'official' code.

[Ko.Fe.]

CV 28 f2 has focus shifts.

I don't know why any Leica made 28 2.8 starting from III would not be good on digital camera with high ISO.

MSO 28 f2 does let dust in according to some long term review on digital M, if I remember correctly.

[Printmaker]

I might be inclined to wait for the SL version of the 28 Summicron and pick up a nice used 28/2.8 version IV Elmarit to use in the interim. You know the SL lens is going to cut like a razor and the older Elmarit renders much like the 28 Summicron M.

I used both in my M8 days and was happy with the results but my 35 Summicron became my primary lens on the M9 and M10. I just prefer the field of view a 35 gives.

[Einst_Stein]

Sooner or later, you will still want the Leica 28mm, F is less important.

But if you can't take Leica 28mm,  7Artisan's 28mm/f1.4 is the only next choice, both optically and mechanically. (Price is irrelevant !). 

[Ccoppola82]

I have a v3 Elmarit and v1 cro.  The Elmarit will be sold when I get around to it. I also use the 35lux hood on it and I love it. 

[lct]

Summicron 28/2 v1 or v2 but they are indeed expensive. Otherwise Elmarit 28/2.8 asph v1 (no experience with v2) if you like contrasty lenses. 25mm is another story.

[jdlaing]

7 Artisans 28mm f/1.4 would be a good choice.

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[james.liam]

The latest versions of the 28 Summicron and Elmarit ASPH were specifically optimized for digital sensors but in particular, for the SL. The Summicron shows the most dramatic improvement compared to its predecessor on the SL sensor. If you’re only using the M10M and SL2, these two newest Leicas are likely your best choices. 

Edited May 7, 2020 by james.liam

[astrostl]

Best at what?

[ardbeg]

On 5/5/2020 at 8:45 AM, Ko.Fe. said:

CV 28 f2 has focus shifts.

Regarding focus shift, agreed for the CV 28 F2, however I have had little to no focus problems with a slightly older CV 28 F1.9 LTM. Not quite up to Leica standards but a very good lens at an attractive price on the used market (~$400-450).

[otto.f]

On 5/5/2020 at 11:05 AM, AndreasG said:

If you do not need frequently the f2, take the 28 ASPH in V1 or V2, or, if on a budget, a used 28 pre ASPH.

This is a bit rigorous, both Summicron asph’s are at f2 even slightly better than the latest Elmarits at f2.8, unless you are very critical on the corners. It’s not as if the full aperture is inferior

[Al Brown]

If you are on a budget (speaking in Leica lenses terms lol), the Mandler's own gem Elmarit-M 28 mm/2.8 (v3) or 7Artisans 28mm f/1.4 are super and can be had for a great price. There is also the Konica M-Hexanon 28mm f/2.8...

If money is no objective, go for the Summilux-M 28mm/1.4 ASPH.

Edited May 7, 2020 by Al Brown

[Joakim]

On 5/5/2020 at 12:16 PM, 250swb said:

All current Zeiss and Voigtlander M lenses have a shallow rebate machined in the mount specifically so the owner can add coding with black paint.

I have the newly released Voigtlander 35mm f/1.2 v3 and I see no such rebate, is it just for some lenses?

Edited May 7, 2020 by Joakim

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[250swb]

12 minutes ago, Joakim said:

I have the newly released Voigtlander 35mm f/1.2 v3 and I see no such rebate, is it just for some lenses?

On all the photos I've seen of the lens flange the rebate is there clear as day. In case you aren't looking at the right thing the coding rebate also serves as the place CV engrave the lens serial number. It runs around the entire flange cut into by the lens lock cutout. To code it you need a template to determine where the sensor window is and where to put a dab of matt black paint, do not bother with a black sharpie, they are mostly useless. If you get it wrong clean off the paint with a cotton bud and thinners and try again. Once dry the paint sits just below the mating surface of flange and lens mount and doesn't rub off, but obviously don't make the paint too thick.