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By TheGodParticle/HariMost of us seem to be photographers as well as collectors.
Show me your favorite lenses, old and new alike.
I like the Noctilux range for the extreme apertures, but I prefer the Summilux range for the best speed:size/weight ratio.
Here’s a Summilux gathering of 21, 24, 28, 35, 50 and 75mm. All in black.
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By StevenBirmiI love shooting with my Nickel Elmar 50mm f/3.5, but I've always wondered the exact year it was made.
It has no visible serial number inside or out.
There is a 0 stamped on the bottom and another 0 beside the focus knob. The number 4 is stamped under the focus knob.
The front shows: Leitz Elmar 1:3,5 F=50mm
The distance marks are: mtr 2, 2.5, 3, 4, 5, 7, 10, 20, infinity, 1, 1.25, 1.5, 1.75
The aperture stops are: 3.5, 4.5, 6.3, 9, 12.5, 18
Any sleuths out there want to hazard a guess for the year the lens was made?
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Hello guest! Please register or sign in to view the hidden content. Hallo Gast! Du willst die Bilder sehen? Einfach registrieren oder anmelden!
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By Jim JI have a 1936 IIIa (s.n. 184223) that is in need of a lens, and I am now in a position to purchase one. I am leaning towards an f3.5 Elmar, as I think it complements the design of the camera beautifully both in compactness and in general appearance. The other lenses that are possibilities look a bit heavier and some even a bit too modern (even though some of them are not) for an 85 year old camera. I do have some points that I would appreciate comments on from those who know more about things Leica than I do, before I part with my cash.
Firstly, condition. Quite a few lenses of this age have either dust or haze in the optics, and others have light marks. Would I be correct in assuming that dust or haze (provided the haze is not excessive) could be fixed with a CLA, as could a stiff aperture ring or focusing ring, but marks would generally not go away?
Secondly, coatings. I see that, as a rule, Pre-War lenses are clear, and Post-War lenses are coated, and I understand the basic reasoning behind coating lenses is to cut down internal reflections but, in lenses of this quality, is there really much of a difference between the two?
As for the lenses that I’m looking at:
Elmar f3.5: My preferred option, as it is so light and compact and just looks so right on a Barnack Leica;
Elmar f2.8: Aside from the extra f-stop, is there any reason for preferring this over the f3.5 Elmar? I find it does not have quite the same visual appeal as the f3.5 Elmar, but it could be useful in low light situations.
Summar f2: Maybe another lens to consider. Again, not quite the same visual appeal as the f3.5 Elmar, but it could also be useful in low light situations.
Summitar: From what I can see, it appears to be an updated and improved version of the Summar. Compared with the Elmar, and even the Summar, it looks a trifle bulky (yes, I know it isn’t really).
Summicron: I’m not so keen on this one, as I find the appearance of the earlier lenses more appealing. I would also prefer to fit my camera with a lens that’s a bit closer to what it originally had. I have heard that the front element is made of an unusually soft glass, which means that these lenses are often badly scratched. Is this so?
Thank you in advance for helping a newcomer to the world of Leicas. -
By alan mcfallGives the term "red scale elmar" a whole new meaning! Distance seems to be in both feet and meters? I guess you can get these "reproductions" in what ever color you want.
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By kingson138Hi, recently I had designed and built by 3D printing a longer Endcap for retractible lenses. Basically it has an internal depth of 23mm, which i think will fit most of the M mount retractible lenses. I designed this Endcap for my 50mm Elmar F2.8 lens.
It is better to use a good 3D printer. I printed this Endcap using my Craftbot Plus printer at " 0.100mm " layer height, with 15% infill. I printed these Endcaps on Glass Bed with Dimafix 3D printer glue. The result is mirror smooth bottom. You can use PLA or PETG. This is a very clean design. There is no oozing to be cut except the last one when the nozzle started to go into Home position. You can use any colors you want. I did not take a picture of the Endcaps today but i will add that to the Dropbox download folder. In this folder you can find a stp file and a stl file suitable for 3D printing. You can revise the design by loading the stp file. A computer rendering is included. Tomorrow evening I will put actual pictures into this downloadable folder.
This is the link:
https://www.dropbox.com/sh/qsjcj2srlp3moea/AAD6QWKuZBCtYeihflJ3ZzIoa?dl=0
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