dkmoore Posted May 10, 2020 Share #41 Posted May 10, 2020 Advertisement (gone after registration) 8 hours ago, davidmknoble said: I thought the tonal scale of Kodak Tri-X was used? Don't know for sure.... A couple of popular reviewers compared the M10M to tri-x. I don’t think anyone has confirmed or even asked Leica the question. In one of the reviews that I read that provided examples comparing the files to Tri-x, it was fairly convincing and probably a reasonable guess to think there is a connection. 2 Quote Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Advertisement Posted May 10, 2020 Posted May 10, 2020 Hi dkmoore, Take a look here Filters on the Monochroms. I'm sure you'll find what you were looking for!
Jeff S Posted May 11, 2020 Share #42 Posted May 11, 2020 19 hours ago, dkmoore said: In one of the reviews that I read that provided examples comparing the files to Tri-x, it was fairly convincing and probably a reasonable guess to think there is a connection. In this review, it seems the reviewer’s impression, not a technical point... https://www.google.com/amp/s/www.thephoblographer.com/2020/01/17/special-report-the-leica-m10-monochrom-is-kodak-tri-x-in-digital-form/amp/ Jeff 1 Quote Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
jaapv Posted May 12, 2020 Share #43 Posted May 12, 2020 TBH, the example images on that blog look nothing like Tri-X. 2 Quote Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
otto.f Posted May 12, 2020 Share #44 Posted May 12, 2020 And thus far, I have nowhere found an M10M image with the typical nice grain of Tri-X. If one would have to compare it, I’d rather look for HP5 sheet film 8x10. 😁 Quote Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
setuporg Posted May 12, 2020 Author Share #45 Posted May 12, 2020 M10M has its own character, striking contrast compared to M246 softer tones. We don't really need to peg it to any film. It's an art form all of our own. Embrace it and express yourself! Quote Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jeff S Posted May 12, 2020 Share #46 Posted May 12, 2020 (edited) 30 minutes ago, setuporg said: M10M has its own character, striking contrast compared to M246 softer tones. Takes seconds in PP using contrast curve and/or other controls to dramatically change rendering. Changiing defaults or presets saves more time. The recent profile for the M10 Monochrom likely just adjusted the curve, for those who haven’t figured out the basics. Tonality is also affected by lighting, by print choices (papers, inks, print size), and more. Jeff Edited May 12, 2020 by Jeff S 1 Quote Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
setuporg Posted May 12, 2020 Author Share #47 Posted May 12, 2020 (edited) Advertisement (gone after registration) 3 hours ago, Jeff S said: Takes seconds in PP using contrast curve and/or other controls to dramatically change rendering. Changing defaults or presets saves more time. The recent profile for the M10 Monochrom likely just adjusted the curve, for those who haven’t figured out the basics. Tonality is also affected by lighting, by print choices (papers, inks, print size), and more. The Leica S folks laud the Out-Of-Camera excellence as a strong advantage. You'd develop only a few shots with utmost attention, so an OOC rendering is a valuable characteristic. Edited May 12, 2020 by setuporg Quote Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jeff S Posted May 12, 2020 Share #48 Posted May 12, 2020 11 minutes ago, setuporg said: The Leica S folks laud the Out-Of-Camera excellence as a strong advantage. You'd develop only a few shots with utmost attention, so an OOC rendering is a valuable characteristic. I can’t recall making a print in 35+ years, film or digital, that didn’t receive some degree of editing and refinement. Sure, a good starting point helps, but if the gear dictated final, or even common rendering, I’d be bored silly.... and disappointed with the final result. Jeff 5 Quote Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Likaleica Posted May 13, 2020 Share #49 Posted May 13, 2020 4 hours ago, setuporg said: The Leica S folks laud the Out-Of-Camera excellence as a strong advantage. You'd develop only a few shots with utmost attention, so an OOC rendering is a valuable characteristic. Maybe a generic look of a JPG with presets, but RAW files are not supposed to be finished OOC. They are just flat data anxiously awaiting your creative processing skills. 3 Quote Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
250swb Posted May 13, 2020 Share #50 Posted May 13, 2020 12 hours ago, setuporg said: M10M has its own character, striking contrast compared to M246 softer tones. I agree Leica needed to go for a bit more punch in the M10M OOC files to make it appear different enough from the M246, but if you like the OOC files you are basically agreeing with the guy who wrote the software which for you is actually very, very lucky. I liked best the original MM OOC files, they were flat and boring, ideal for post processing and being creative, like a rough pencil sketch on a blank canvas, perfect. 3 Quote Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
setuporg Posted May 13, 2020 Author Share #51 Posted May 13, 2020 It also depends on the mode of shooting. I tend to walk with the camera all the time, and make a lot of photos, especially with kids. I would choose to edit a few but a vast majority will stay OOC. Thus it always helps if the OOC processing is good already. The Leica S forum is full of praise for the OOC quality of 007, for instance, and it's more pro than any others, probably. It would be tempting to develop good presets for sure. I also like to shoot DNG+JPG for purposes of backup, redundancy, and flexibility in sharing, and JPG comes out basically with the same OOC features. 1 Quote Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jeff S Posted May 13, 2020 Share #52 Posted May 13, 2020 One can always change default import settings. No extra work required if that’s all you want. Jeff 3 Quote Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Sjz Posted July 28, 2020 Share #53 Posted July 28, 2020 Resurrecting an old(ish) thread. In a very unscientific way, do most people use colour filters on the Monochrom? Is it common not to use a colour filter at all? I have yellow / orange / red (B+W) on their way. Suspect that is also the order of most frequently used. Quote Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
rpittal Posted July 28, 2020 Share #54 Posted July 28, 2020 I agree with your order; I always use yellow with my monochrom, sometimes orange, and rarely red or green. As noted before, be aware of focus shift with red if not using an apo lens (or small f stop to compensate for wavelength difference in the red light) Quote Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
tgray Posted July 28, 2020 Share #55 Posted July 28, 2020 I haven’t been, but I rarely use filters on film. That being said , I was surprised at the amount of focus shift with a red filter and the 28 Summicron. I suspect yellow and orange will be the most useful - red didn’t seem that much more dramatic than orange in my quick testing when it came to darkening skies I intend to use them a bit more outside than I have in the past. Quote Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
t00l1024 Posted July 29, 2020 Share #56 Posted July 29, 2020 Mostly yellow for everyday shots for me. But when the landscapes give me this, orange or red filters get used. But as @tgray stated, I also do see that much of a difference between orange and red. Welcome, dear visitor! As registered member you'd see an image here… Simply register for free here – We are always happy to welcome new members! 7 Quote Link to post Share on other sites Simply register for free here – We are always happy to welcome new members! ' data-webShareUrl='https://www.l-camera-forum.com/topic/308813-filters-on-the-monochroms/?do=findComment&comment=4017544'>More sharing options...
convexferret Posted July 29, 2020 Share #57 Posted July 29, 2020 I found that for day-to-day usage orange or red is too obtrusive. It's too obviously "unreal". It has its place. I've settled on a yellow for all of my lenses which, measuring by highlight clipping, only loses me 0.5 stops on the M10M. Quote Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Keith (M) Posted July 29, 2020 Share #58 Posted July 29, 2020 Default is a medium yellow. Will switch to orange when I think the subject will benefit. 1 Quote Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Sjz Posted July 29, 2020 Share #59 Posted July 29, 2020 Thank you to all who replied, I appreciate it. I took a test shot using no filter then one with each filter. The changes were more subtle than I expected, I can see why, for shots that include the sky, the yellow has a certain appeal, then it’s a case of ‘how much do I want to turn up the dial’. Quote Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
otto.f Posted August 3, 2020 Share #60 Posted August 3, 2020 On 28 juli 2020 at 8:37 PM, Sjz said: Resurrecting an old(ish) thread. In a very unscientific way, do most people use colour filters on the Monochrom? Is it common not to use a colour filter at all? I have yellow / orange / red (B+W) on their way. Suspect that is also the order of most frequently used. I mostly use Orange because it is most effective with skies and greens in landscape. But I use it not in the last place to bring down the lowest ISO to 100 to have more selective focus. Quote Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
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