What to check before buying a used M10?

[wolan]

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Hi,

I have a chance to buy a Leica M10 for about 5000 CHF.

What I need to check before purchasing ? The camera has been serviced in February. Besides that it looks be in good shape

By the way, what do later M10 modes have that the M10 does not?

Thanks a lot for helping me.

[a.noctilux]

Hello Wolan,

just to say that I purchased M10 since early 2017 ( one month after it's launching ), nothing to complain ( camera is nice only battery is a bit "weak"

so second battery is a must).

If you have with the M10 some warranties, you can buy it if the price is right for you, then use it and decide if it is for you.

You may find in technical data we can download from this Leica website (link to )

 

Quick "difference in features" from memory:

M10-P adds touch screen and level.

M10-D has no screen at all.

M10 Monochrom is obviously only for monochrome files.

 

Arnaud

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[Good To Be Retired]

17 hours ago, wolan said:

 

What I need to check before purchasing ? The camera has been serviced in February. Besides that it looks be in good shape

 

I buy and sell a lot of cameras.  The way I prefer to approach purchasing a model with which I am not familiar is to start out by downloading the manual and reading it throughly.

As you refer to checking "before purchasing" it sounds like you are looking at a camera from an individual or a local store.  I like to purchase from a reputable dealer with a liberal return policy.  To me, that means no questions asked and no restocking fee.  If it's an individual, that's a bit more difficult to pen down, but make some effort to do so.

• The first check is always cosmetics.  While pristine cosmetics certainly don't guarantee the camera works properly, they do give some indication of previous handling.  I also prefer used cameras with the box and paperwork.  This has nothing to do with camera condition, but may indicate a certain OCD toward keeping equipment in like new condition which potentially indicates a careful owner.  Or not, and I just like boxes.  I do find that boxed cameras are easer to sell, but YMMV.
• Brassing may or may not be unsightly depending on your preferences, and is not necessarily an indication of anything other than handling.  More brassing would indicate a camera which has seen more usage.  Again, this may not be particularly meaningful but is another data point.
• But if the corners, edges, flat surfaces display indication of the camera having struck this is something to consider.  Even if no damage to functionality has occurred, the price should be reduced accordingly.  External damage does not necessarily indicate internal damage just as a pristine exterior does not indicate an undamaged interior.  But that's how the smart money is going to bet
• Turn on the camera and operate all the controls, including the menu.  Operation of mechanical controls should be smooth with no sticking of buttons.  
• Reset the camera through the menu to defaults.
• The mating surface to which the lens is attached should be unmarked, the glass rangefinder windows should be free of scratches, the LED display should be free of scratches and uneven color/brightness when viewing images.  Some can get haze under the glass.
• I like to listen closely to the shutter sound, but unless you are familiar with how it should be this may not be beneficial.
• Attaching and dismounting a lens should be smooth, with just a bit of effort resulting from a nice firm fit.  
• Make photographs.  Put the memory card in your laptop and check for focus accuracy at infinity, midrange, and close up, infinity being as far away as you can see a suitable target.
• Also check for vertical rangefinder patch alignment.
• Check that the lens, if coded, is being read correctly in the exif data.
• Are all included accessories, like the charger, present.
• If your model has the frame line selector, make sure it presents the different frame lines.

There's probably an endless list of stuff I forgot, so don't consider this list all inclusive.  Or definitive for that matter.  I've sold some pristine looking bodies that were plagued with issues. I advised the buyer up front of course, but not everybody does that.  I've also currently got a body that looks like it's been used for a boat anchor and operates perfectly (the camera body, not my body, although it's getting pretty tired also  ).

Edited March 30, 2020 by Good To Be Retired

[a.noctilux]

Something important to add here,

The M10-P has "more silent shutter" comparing to the already "almost silent shutter" of M10.

Also the M10-D and M10 Monochrom.

Edited March 30, 2020 by a.noctilux

[mujk]

I've had my M10 for more than two years without any problems. It seems that quite few common problems have been reported, but here are a few:

• ISO dial stops working due to a mechanical fault. Easy to check. Maybe the most common quality problem.
• A few obvious sensor/sensor board failures.
• A "stuck" horizontal scan line. Often fixable by customised firmware by Leica.
• Eye piece ring falling off.
• Metal springs in hot shoe falling off
• Some odd problems with 020 Viso

probably forgot some...

 

[wolan]

Thank you everybody for your competent answers.

 

 

[Peter Kilmister]

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As @a.noctilux says the M10-P has a shutter that is so quiet it is amazing. Users of other full frame camera systems say they have never heard so silent a shutter. It is reminiscent of Leica film cameras.

Also the M10-P has no front red logo, just an engraved identifier on the top plate. It is truly subtle. I love it!

[Jeff S]

Simple... buy from a trustworthy and reputable dealer that does all the checking for you, and that provides a warranty and return policy.  Here, for example, is a clean one from Leica Miami that just had a CLA from Leica..

https://leicastoremiami.com/collections/used-m-cameras/products/used-leica-m10-silver-chrome-recent-leica-cla-1?variant=32422613319811

Jeff

Edited March 31, 2020 by Jeff S

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[Patrick1955]

On 3/31/2020 at 5:26 AM, mujk said:

I've had my M10 for more than two years without any problems. It seems that quite few common problems have been reported, but here are a few:

• ISO dial stops working due to a mechanical fault. Easy to check. Maybe the most common quality problem.
• A few obvious sensor/sensor board failures.
• A "stuck" horizontal scan line. Often fixable by customised firmware by Leica.
• Eye piece ring falling off.
• Metal springs in hot shoe falling off
• Some odd problems with 020 Viso

probably forgot some...

 

Wow - lucky me - I experienced 3 of the above 5 listed problems with my M10 (ISO, board, eyepiece).  Time to buy a lottery ticket? I should add, I bought it new.

Edited April 1, 2020 by Patrick1955

[chevovish]

If you intend to use the camera with visoflex, it might be difficult to detect problems right away.

In my case, my first M10-P would occasionally turn itself back on even when it is powered off. This only happened with visoflex attached on. When it does this, visoflex would stay on until the battery drains out. 

I did not find it out several days later. Went back to the store and got a new one. If you buy the camera from an unauthorized dealer, check the return policy.

Also it might be useful to check the sensor dust. You can use the in-camera dust detection to do this. I've seen someone report sensor dust on a brand new Leica.