Jump to content

How Do You get Drying Marks Off a Film ?


robert_parker

Recommended Posts

Just an idea: you may want to change the place where you buy the film. Couple of months back, I bought some trix in a new place, first roll came out with some weird marks (not like yours), very regular little cross of some sorts. I took all the rolls back to the shop and no issue since then. 

You could also check with Ilford customers service, they are super helpful!

  • Thanks 1
Link to post
Share on other sites

I used to get water marks all the time on my film, and then tried this (learned on another discussion board) and have had dozens of rolls without a single one.

I soak a film squeegee in Photoflow and distilled water while doing the development.

Then I pour the Photoflow in the canister for a bit.

After I hang the wet film up, I run the squeegee twice on the film before putting the bottom clips in.

I resisted buying a squeegee or using distilled water, but, together, they really did the trick.

Edited by bags27
  • Thanks 2
Link to post
Share on other sites

I always use Photoflow and after hanging use a piece of windscreen-wiper blade to squeegee the film. The piece of wiper blade is set in a piece of wood for a handle.

Besides stopping water marks totally, it also reduces drying time. Keep the squeegee away from dust, mould, etc.

I use film clips which " bite" into the film ends.

 

 

Edited by david strachan
  • Like 1
  • Thanks 1
Link to post
Share on other sites

I don't use squeegee any more, used once, scratch the roll, so now stopped it completely. I use distilled water for all chemicals (dev, stop and fixer), except during 2 wash cycle after fixer and before Ilfotol, then Ilfotol cycle again with distilled water. Then I just hang them, no water mark. Sometimes I do salad spinner technique as well which is equally good. I am, personally, against to any item touches film when it is wet.

Edited by fatihayoglu
  • Like 1
  • Thanks 1
Link to post
Share on other sites

On 11/5/2020 at 4:37 PM, robert_parker said:

It's hard to say - the film was professionally developed and scanned by a reputable shop in London however I think they were having problems at the time with staff sickness, so that a rigorous process might not have been followed.  I've stored the film safely and will come back to it in a while with a view to scanning it myself and establishing if the marks are actually on the film and if so what they are, or if for instance if they were on the platen of the scanner, if it hadn't been wiped down properly during the process.

I agree with the comments above. Soak it and gently squeegee it off and hang dry. Not ideal, but it will help. 

 

Also, If I was you I would just develop it myself next time. In my opinion no matter how good the lab, they will never do as good a job as you will with your own film. For a lot of reasons but the obvious one is they don't care as much. 

  • Thanks 1
Link to post
Share on other sites

Advertisement (gone after registration)

48 minutes ago, fatihayoglu said:

I don't use squeegee any more, used once, scratch the roll, so now stopped it completely. I use distilled water for all chemicals (dev, stop and fixer), except during 2 wash cycle after fixer and before Ilfotol, then Ilfotol cycle again with distilled water. Then I just hang them, no water mark. Sometimes I do salad spinner technique as well which is equally good. I am, personally, against to any item touches film when it is wet.

I also stopped using a squeegee after I saw it leading to scratch marks when just a tiny piece of dust sticks on the rubber. Most simple method works best for me as I described above in #17. 

  • Thanks 1
Link to post
Share on other sites

6 hours ago, Ouroboros said:

I used a Paterson film squeegee years ago until I eventually broke it.  Since then I just run the film between my pre-soaked index and second fingers once and leave it to dry.

Just wanted to say a big thanks. I think you posted it somewhere before and I have followed since reading it. I use ilfotol and if I see a bit too much soapy water not coming down, I do the above.

Edited by Aryel
  • Like 1
  • Thanks 2
Link to post
Share on other sites

17 hours ago, convexferret said:

It's been mentioned in passing above, but I've found that using distilled water (or water from a dehumidifier) to make a huge difference in drying films without marks. I just use it for the last rinse with a tiny amount of wetting agent.

super important!

  • Thanks 2
Link to post
Share on other sites

On 09/02/2021 at 4:06 PM, convexferret said:

It's been mentioned in passing above, but I've found that using distilled water (or water from a dehumidifier) to make a huge difference in drying films without marks. I just use it for the last rinse with a tiny amount of wetting agent.

Hello,

I am planning to try this out using water from a dehumidifier. Anything to check before doing so? The dehumidifier is actually in the darkroom (to try to protect the enlarger when not in use) so I am a bit concerned whether the water would be contaminated somehow...

Thanks a lot.

  • Thanks 1
Link to post
Share on other sites

I know the initial issue is passed, but I figured I would drop in a bit about photo flo. One thing I have found is that like most soap, photo flo is pretty dependent on the hardness of the water. Water in Iceland is very soft, and I find that I need far less photo flo. The only real point of photo flo as far as I am aware is to reduce the surface tension of the water and reduce beading. Distilled water will still bead, but since there are no minerals in it, it should not leave marks. Of course, there is usually something still, even if it is just picked up from the container or tank. I think using the minimum amount of photo flo required to lower the surface tension is what you want. You don't want soapy water, just water that runs off the film. You can figure this out pretty quickly by just looking at your negatives. I have pretty much stuck to 1.5mL per 500mL of water, which is a little more than half the Kodak recommendation. Since this is a not a development/chemical step, the dilution is just a guideline, probably based on what Kodak thinks is the minimum amount to achieve the effect in the water of most places without being too sudsy.

  • Like 1
  • Thanks 2
Link to post
Share on other sites

I also have to say, but for whatever reason I think Photo Flo is better than Ilfotol. I am not sure why, but Ilfotol irritates my nose, and photo flo does not. They also look different, with Ilfotol being slightly milky and PhotoFlo being clear. I have been using a bottle of photo flo I bought that is now almost old enough to drink, and which has been used in three time zones. The stuff lasts.

  • Thanks 1
Link to post
Share on other sites

Join the conversation

You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.
Note: Your post will require moderator approval before it will be visible.

Guest
Reply to this topic...

×   Pasted as rich text.   Paste as plain text instead

  Only 75 emoji are allowed.

×   Your link has been automatically embedded.   Display as a link instead

×   Your previous content has been restored.   Clear editor

×   You cannot paste images directly. Upload or insert images from URL.

×
×
  • Create New...