-
Recently Browsing 0 members
No registered users viewing this page.
-
Similar Content
-
By Michael MessnerWe made a short Video of making prints in my old B&W Darkroom. The Video is here.
-
By Martin BI am successfully developing at home C-41 color negative (and XP2 B&W) and E-6 based slide films using the Arista development packs. After I started recently working with the E-6 process, a few differences compared to C-41 became obvious to me regarding the recommended steps in the development procedures:
1. E-6 requires washing with water between first developer and color developer, and then afterwards before adding Blix. C-41 has no water wash in between developer and Blix addition - why? Would it be better to add a washing step in the C-41 process similar to the E-6 process to avoid contamination of Blix and stop the developer? Or is there a reason that this shouldn't be done?
2. E-6 has no final stabilizer wash as it is done in the C-41 process. I understood from earlier discussions in this forum that the stabilizer acts to preserve the color negative - any specific reason why this is not needed with slide film?
3. Is there a difference in oxidation stability of the developer used in C-41 and the two developers used in E-6? Are both color developers in C-41 and E-6 the same?
-
By Martin BQuick question to the knowledgeable crowd here - I am happy owner of a Bogen 18.5 x 22.5" dry mount press, and it works very well to dry mount my silver gelatin prints onto the backboard paper. But I also tried using it to dry fiber-based silver gelatin prints to avoid wrinkling during the drying process - did anyone of you ever try this? I found it can work well with some precaution needed: At about 180F, the 8x10" print needs to sit in there for about 5 minutes to dry. The paper comes out wrinkle-free and only curls a bit when laid down flat on a surface (not an issue since I dry mount it afterwards anyway). What I found is that it is not a good idea to dry the paper between the two paper boards inside the dryer for the full length (5 minutes) of drying time - some part of the print paper tends then to stick too tightly to the paper boards. This can be avoided by opening the drying after a minute of so and moving the print before it adheres.
Did anybody have some better advice here - I only find information online about the dry matting itself, but nobody seems to use such dryer for actually drying silver gelatin prints. Or is this not a good idea to do, and I was just lucky that it worked?