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Dear Leica lovers,

Like to get your opinion on the following. I always shoot with my M10 completely manual. Yesterday I was on a photoshoot where the light circumstances changes constantly. I do not like to shoot with auto iso, so I have to open the wheel, change the setting and close the wheel again. Than I decided to keep the wheel up, made the proces of changing ISO must faster and worked well.

The manual says you have to close the wheel. Should there be a change damaging the camera while shooting with the ISO wheel up? Don’t think so, but anyone experience with this?

Thanks for sharing your experience and thoughts in advance.

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vor 48 Minuten schrieb evikne:

I've never understood why it obviously is so much worse to inadvertently change ISO than aperture (which I accidentally change all the time). 😉

Same here. I would much prefer if that wheel were just accessible as the others (no fixation). When shooting fully manual I always keep that wheel up. Exactly as you do.

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Lately, I more and more often just leave the ISO at 200 all the time. I shoot fully manual and of course I adjust aperture and exposure time as normal, but when it starts to get darker and I normally would raise the ISO, I just leave it at 200. When I raise the exposure later in LR, there is hardly any difference between such a photo and a photo with a higher ISO. Doing it in camera with ISO or in post processing, is essentially the same thing. Maybe not fully, but good enough for me, and the benefits of simplicity outweigh the disadvantages. 

As I see it, the main reason to use the ISO wheel at all, is just to be able to see the pictures on the back screen of the camera. But I always have that screen turned off anyway. 

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2 hours ago, Graafber said:

Dear Leica lovers,

Like to get your opinion on the following. I always shoot with my M10 completely manual. Yesterday I was on a photoshoot where the light circumstances changes constantly. I do not like to shoot with auto iso, so I have to open the wheel, change the setting and close the wheel again. Than I decided to keep the wheel up, made the proces of changing ISO must faster and worked well.

The manual says you have to close the wheel. Should there be a change damaging the camera while shooting with the ISO wheel up? Don’t think so, but anyone experience with this?

Thanks for sharing your experience and thoughts in advance.

No risk to the camera.

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2 hours ago, Graafber said:

Should there be a change damaging the camera while shooting with the ISO wheel up? Don’t think so, but anyone experience with this?

No. Not while shooting. 

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On 3/1/2020 at 4:31 AM, evikne said:

.........When I raise the exposure later in LR, there is hardly any difference between such a photo and a photo with a higher ISO. Doing it in camera with ISO or in post processing, is essentially the same thing. Maybe not fully, but good enough for me, and the benefits of simplicity outweigh the disadvantages...........

Changing the exposure when taking the photo can't be the same as changing the exposure in Lightroom, although you may get similar results.  If you set the exposure in the camera, and look at the histogram (as someone pointed out to me several days ago) you can see if the full range using the histogram is within the window, in which case you can adjust it as you noted, and still recover all the detail.  But if you get to where you're "clipping" either end of the scale, changing the exposure in Lightroom won't be able to bring the detail back, as it might not be there at all.  

Also, digital noise is directly related to exposure.  If you "underexpose" the image, you'll get more digital noise.  If you try to adjust in Lightroom, the image might get "lighter", but the additional noise, if any, remains.

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3 hours ago, MikeMyers said:

Changing the exposure when taking the photo can't be the same as changing the exposure in Lightroom, although you may get similar results.  If you set the exposure in the camera, and look at the histogram (as someone pointed out to me several days ago) you can see if the full range using the histogram is within the window, in which case you can adjust it as you noted, and still recover all the detail.  But if you get to where you're "clipping" either end of the scale, changing the exposure in Lightroom won't be able to bring the detail back, as it might not be there at all.  

Also, digital noise is directly related to exposure.  If you "underexpose" the image, you'll get more digital noise.  If you try to adjust in Lightroom, the image might get "lighter", but the additional noise, if any, remains.

There are several threads about "ISO invariance" here in the forum and elsewhere if you search for it. For example this one:

 

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