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Does M8.2 have a built-in IR-cut filter?


MikeMyers

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It's been ages since I last read the instruction manual on the Leica M8.2, but I was searching for information on the IR cut filters, and a link to the manual came up.  While reading through it, it said that the M8.2 does have an IR cut filter above the sensor, but that it is very thin (so as to not detract from the sharpness of the images).  Was this a typo, or is there really such a filter in the. 8.2 ?

If so, how effective is it?

https://upload.cyfrowe.pl/cyfrowe/instrukcje/aparaty/leica/instrukcja_leica_m82_eng.pdf

(Section 102, left side of page)

 

Edited by MikeMyers
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I haven't been seeing "purple" clothing, but some greenery that I expected to be green is more on the "yellow" side.

I've had a lot of trouble finding the appropriate filters, but maybe I just haven't looked in the right places.  Leica wasn't much help, but this was years ago.  Apparently the 35mm f/1.4 Summilux doesn't even have filter threads - I need to find a filter that drops into the lens hood.  If I had been able to find the filter, I'd have ordered it already.

All that stuff is minor - I'm still loving the M8.2 camera.  It wouldn't be fair to call it my "favorite camera", but it's certainly the camera I most enjoy using.

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I will call B&H; my Summilux is the older model, half the size, made in Canada, and there are no filter threads.  The filter needs to go inside the lens hood.  I'll call them tomorrow, and see what they can find.  I use that lens the most, but I have four lens that ought to have the filter.  On the other hand, the files I'm getting with no filter look good to me, with the exception of green leaves that look faded.

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1 minute ago, MikeMyers said:

 On the other hand, the files I'm getting with no filter look good to me, with the exception of green leaves that look faded.

Just luck... there are many posts here showing horrible effects due to lack of filter.

Jeff

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4 minutes ago, MikeMyers said:

I will call B&H; my Summilux is the older model, half the size, made in Canada, and there are no filter threads.  The filter needs to go inside the lens hood.  I'll call them tomorrow, and see what they can find.  I use that lens the most, but I have four lens that ought to have the filter.  On the other hand, the files I'm getting with no filter look good to me, with the exception of green leaves that look faded.

Tell them you need a series VII B&W IR cut filter.

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4 minutes ago, lct said:

Just for a reminder.

I assumed you guys meant I would drop in a series 7 filter from the back.  How do I "open the hood"?  Are there any instructions posted here?  Never tried that - maybe that's my problem.

 

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3 minutes ago, MikeMyers said:

I assumed you guys meant I would drop in a series 7 filter from the back.  How do I "open the hood"?  Are there any instructions posted here?  Never tried that - maybe that's my problem.

The hood is made of two halves. You just need to unscrew them.

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To 'lct', here is a photo straight from my M8.2.  The green leaves at the bottom looked more green to me when I took the photo, than what I see here.  It doesn't stop me from turning it into a photo I like, but maybe I should have a more realistic starting point

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To me, it's not distorting the image, it's just showing me things that I can't see with my eyes, because my eyes can't pick up infrared illumination.  On the other hand, if I enjoy blocking out much of the visible spectrum, and shooting images mostly with infrared, why should I mind getting images that are illuminated both by visible light, and by infrared light?  If the result is ugly, that's one thing - but what if the M8 images ADD something to the image (which they literally do)?

By the time I get done editing in Nik Collection, the resulting image is no longer what I saw.  When I watch the guys demonstrate PhotoLab 3, or even Lightroom, the resulting photo is beautiful, but it's not what people saw when they snapped the shutter?  

I need to think about this a lot more, and I'll buy the filter anyway, but I may or may not use it, depending on what I'm trying to create.

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5 minutes ago, MikeMyers said:

If the result is ugly, that's one thing - 

The examples presented illustrate this ... to me... in many instances.  For some, ‘accurate’ color reproduction is critical; and  for others, not. YMMV.

Jeff

Edited by Jeff S
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In any case, the IR-contaminated colour is very hard to correct in postprocessing (it can be done - but it takes considerable Photoshop skills and time)
The IR filter on the M8 / M8.2 cameras is 0.5 mm thick and 50% effective. The M9  85% effective, the M240 70 %. I  don't know about the M§0, but I suspect it is well over 80%.

I use 486 filters on all my M  cameras as soon as the light has a high IR content.

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I will obviously agree that for accurate color reproduction, the filter is a must. 

Quite often, I don't think accurate color reproduction is at the top of my list as to what's important.

Anyway, the filter is a tool.  As soon as I can get things sorted out with B&H, I'll have one on order.  Then I can choose when to use it.

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1 hour ago, lct said:

The hood is made of two halves. You just need to unscrew them.

Thank you - I didn't know it came apart like this.  Will check it out tomorrow.

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3 hours ago, MikeMyers said:

To 'lct', here is a photo straight from my M8.2.  The green leaves at the bottom looked more green to me when I took the photo, than what I see here.  It doesn't stop me from turning it into a photo I like, but maybe I should have a more realistic starting point

Why so? You don't have to stick UV/IR filters to your lenses if you don't like them. Most people are convinced when they see how true colors look like but you may perfectly prefer the results you get without filter. Reason why i suggested you try an inexpensive Rocolax UV/IR filter in the first place and decide what to do afterwards. 

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