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Converting Color Negatives to with Digital Camera

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I pulled out a Bessler slide duplicator out of my attic, something from a brief stint at freelance professional photography. I put my CL on the unit via a Nikon adapter, played around, since the light source is 3200K I set the WB to tungsten. B&W negatives were easy, but getting good color balance on a color neg seems difficult with Photoshop. After a couple of Youtube videos I thought I had it, but it seemed the presenters were being very critical and I was having some trouble getting colors right. The cool thing about this duplicator is it has its own CMY filtration, tried cranking in some cyan, but that was worse than having things set at neutral. 

I do have an Epson V700, but it is cranky with my laptop and is very slow, trying to bypass the scanner. But the scanner does a good job. The answer is probably, since I do b&w mostly with my M3, use the digital capture with b&w, scanner for color negs.

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Thanks, this would solve the problem, but the problem with Negative Lab Pro is it is a plug in for Lightroom not Photoshop. While I have the full Adobe suite I haven't explored Lightroom. If it was a Photoshop plug-in I'd go for it.

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https://www.colorperfect.com/colorperfect.html?lang=en

Color Perfect is a photoshop plugin. It is extremely good, though rather counter-intuitive to learn at first. Search around and you might find some tutorials. They have their own on youtube. Converting color negatives is not as simple as just inverting them and balancing them. They are rather finicky. Whatever the algorithm is that they use, ColorPerfect seems to do it the best of those that I tried. I did not really find NegativeLabPro to be very good. I get my best results from ColorPerfect or FlexColor (for my Hasselblad Scanner).

 

https://www.youtube.com/channel/UCByWN-oSJ1vd1sfspTLP55g

 

Edited by Stuart Richardson

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Found that if the negative is opened in PS than curves has preset for generic color negative, was OK but not great with Portra 160,. I wish the same preset curves were in ACR. I also looked at Color Perfect with settings for numerous films, may be the way to go.

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After trial of Negative Lab Pro, I finally purchased it. It does a good job with almost 99% of my color negatives. You have to follow the directions carefully though but it is easy. Now I have settled on scanning with BEOON+M240 compared to my Plustek output (lab scan was worst for color). Plustek will probably go on market. 
 

look at the following two results from Cinestill film. 

 

Edited by jmahto

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3 hours ago, jmahto said:

After trial of Negative Lab Pro, I finally purchased it. It does a good job with almost 99% of my color negatives. You have to follow the directions carefully though but it is easy. Now I have settled on scanning with BEOON+M240 compared to my Plustek output (lab scan was worst for color). Plustek will probably go on market. 
 

look at the following two results from Cinestill film. 

 

Also a BEOON and M240 owner here and thinking along the same lines as you. Can I ask what lens you're using? 

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3 hours ago, jmahto said:

After trial of Negative Lab Pro, I finally purchased it. It does a good job with almost 99% of my color negatives. You have to follow the directions carefully though but it is easy. Now I have settled on scanning with BEOON+M240 compared to my Plustek output (lab scan was worst for color). Plustek will probably go on market. 
 

look at the following two results from Cinestill film. 

 

is that contrast added while post processing ?

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I think my workflow is getting results.

1) Photograph the negative, a little over exposed works best using my CL on a slide duplicator.

2) Open in ACR, the color temp is 3150 from the CL set to tungsten (tungsten bulb in the slide duplicator). Lower the color temp to 2600.

3) Open image in Photoshop

4) Use the Color Negative preset in Curves (wish this was an option in ACR).

5) Make any adjustments in Curves, Levels or Brightness and Contrast as you see fit. This image I made sure that all colors were full histograms, worked well. If there is a good grey portion in the image the grey color picker works well.

This is a little faster than my scanner but also sharper.

 

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9 hours ago, Steve Ricoh said:

Also a BEOON and M240 owner here and thinking along the same lines as you. Can I ask what lens you're using? 

I am using Schneider Componon=S 50/2.8.

I also posted my setup and workflow here.

 

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8 hours ago, frame-it said:

is that contrast added while post processing ?

Not for these two photos. The contrast was high in the scene itself. For most of the pic, I don't have to do anything other than slight color adjustment. For CineStill 50D I found that all had slight green tint which may look good by itself but I changed tint to slightly reddish side. 

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5 hours ago, jmahto said:

Not for these two photos. The contrast was high in the scene itself. For most of the pic, I don't have to do anything other than slight color adjustment. For CineStill 50D I found that all had slight green tint which may look good by itself but I changed tint to slightly reddish side. 

nice

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