Jump to content
NRKstudio

SL2 flash guidance, please!

Recommended Posts

Advertisement (gone after registration)

To the forum gurus: 

For my SL2, I am seeking a good on-camera flash with radio transmitter capability, plus a controller for it.  

I have the SF40, and it’s not making the cut really.  TTL is decent tho, but I just read “The Flash Book” by Scott Kelby and his system is all about setting the flash/camera (move the flash off camera if possible) to Manual mode (1/4 flash power, iso 100, 1/125 sec, f/5.6)and just adjusting the camera from there.

So what have y’all been using for a good hot shoe flash and a radio controller?? 
The SF58 and c1 remote are out of my budget unfortunately! I’m an amateur photographer who shoots just my toddler and wife, and some friends/family events.  
 

thanks in advance for the guidance!

 

 

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

I use these for the radio part: https://www.lightpixlabs.com/pages/flashq-t2

For OCF street portraits, I use a Leica SF 24D with the FlashQ receiver attached. That combo is small enough to carry in my pocket until I need it. The transmitter is tiny and just sits on the camera all the time. Obviously, there's no TTL with that setup.

For studio use, I have some Profoto B2s, and use the regular Profoto Air remote (again no TTL). In a pinch, the same tiny FlashQ receiver can trigger the profotos via a short cable.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
Posted (edited)
1 hour ago, andyturk said:

I use these for the radio part: https://www.lightpixlabs.com/pages/flashq-t2

For OCF street portraits, I use a Leica SF 24D with the FlashQ receiver attached. That combo is small enough to carry in my pocket until I need it. The transmitter is tiny and just sits on the camera all the time. Obviously, there's no TTL with that setup.

For studio use, I have some Profoto B2s, and use the regular Profoto Air remote (again no TTL). In a pinch, the same tiny FlashQ receiver can trigger the profotos via a short cable.

Thanks for the advice! That small transmitter looks perfect.  Never seen it before. 

which brand Profoto Air Remote do you use? Nikon, Panasonic, Fuji...? I would love to be able to use a Fuji version of a Profoto A1x (on-camera) and with the Air Remote TTL (the simple profoto remote without a screen) If they will fire off the SL2.  I couldn’t get my Sony version of the Profoto A1X/remoteTTL to fire, so I’m wondering if the Fuji (or Nikon or Panasonic) would work. 
 

have you tried the Godox v1 system and their Godox remote? That is another simple solution as well. 

 

Edited by NRKstudio

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

@NRKstdudio

I use the basic Profoto remote: https://profoto.com/in/products/air-remotes/remotes/air-remote

It only has the center terminal/conductor, so it's fairly universal. I also tried the Nikon specific one in a store last year. It fired the flash just fine, but none of the other TTL features worked with Leica, so there was no point in spending more for it.

Also, for completeness, I don't have an SL2, but I've used these flashes with my M10-P and SL. I've got no experience with Godox, but they seem pretty good too (and much less expensive than Profoto).

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

The plain Profoto air remote works on the SL2; that takes care of static shots where you can meter/reshoot. It would open up more scenes to flash if we had TTL capability.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
2 hours ago, andyturk said:

@NRKstdudio

I use the basic Profoto remote: https://profoto.com/in/products/air-remotes/remotes/air-remote

It only has the center terminal/conductor, so it's fairly universal. I also tried the Nikon specific one in a store last year. It fired the flash just fine, but none of the other TTL features worked with Leica, so there was no point in spending more for it.

Also, for completeness, I don't have an SL2, but I've used these flashes with my M10-P and SL. I've got no experience with Godox, but they seem pretty good too (and much less expensive than Profoto).

Thanks again for the link and advice.  I am planning to place an order for the small transmitter/receiver you recommend (to use my current sf40 off camera), a Godox V1x for Fuji (to use on a Light stand during events,  the Profoto A1 is a little too pricey for me), and the Godox brand remote.  I believe the Fuji version has the center post contact that will allow Manual shooting of the flash with Leica gear

also of interest is the Nissin i60a, it looks to be the non-Leica version of the Leica SF60, Nissins’s remote looks exactly alike as well.  Would have to pick the Fuji ver of the i60a.  

30 minutes ago, Exodies said:

The plain Profoto air remote works on the SL2; that takes care of static shots where you can meter/reshoot. It would open up more scenes to flash if we had TTL capability.

I agree, Kelby’s method does seem limited.  I can imagine an event where you must move back and forth through many different rooms/areas that differ significantly in ambient brightness; thus test shots would not be practical or efficient due to the large variance between multiple light conditions.  Scott Kelby’s book recommends, in the case where you can not shoot, adjust, and quickly reshoot (he calls it “run and gun” or “meet and greets” in the case of event photography): to take a test shot in the area you will be photographing, and then adjust the flash down to somewhat average underexposure, test the flash, and then use these settings static through the different areas.  maybe I’d get the hang eventually of judging light conditions well enough to dial in flash EV compensation in such cases, but TTL would be helpful regardless.  
 

the only TTL option off camera is the sf58 and c1 combo.  But has anyone tried the Leica c1 remote with non-Leica flash units?  would the c1 remote/SL2-rig measure TTL flash power and then send those synchronize those settings/measurements to the nissin i60a, or better yet a Godox v1x or a profoto A1X (that has wireless capabilities)? 

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Advertisement (gone after registration)

Hi all, thanks for the considerate thoughts and for starting this thread NRK Studio!

I recently upgraded to the SL2 and am looking to invest in a ProFoto Air Remote and OCF and considering the ProFoto Air Remote and B10 Plus, has anyone used the B10 plus or A1x with their Leica's? I come from the motion world and always use continues light for stills but I think I need a flash system now and want to get something reliable and somewhat compact. It's a real shame ProFoto is not more globally compatible with Leica.

 

Thanks for any thoughts!!

Ben Jacks

Director & Photographer | www.ben-jacks.com  

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
2 hours ago, jacksbenjamin said:

Hi all, thanks for the considerate thoughts and for starting this thread NRK Studio!

I recently upgraded to the SL2 and am looking to invest in a ProFoto Air Remote and OCF and considering the ProFoto Air Remote and B10 Plus, has anyone used the B10 plus or A1x with their Leica's? I come from the motion world and always use continues light for stills but I think I need a flash system now and want to get something reliable and somewhat compact. It's a real shame ProFoto is not more globally compatible with Leica.

 

Thanks for any thoughts!!

Ben Jacks

Director & Photographer | www.ben-jacks.com  

I use the standard profoto remote all the time on an SL and SL2 along with a couple A1's and any of the Profoto Lights, D1, B1, B2 and  B10 and never had a problem. No TTL or HSS.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

For off camera TTL the options are limited. You use the SF-C1 transmitter with the SF60 flash unit (not the SF58). These are rebadged Nissin units. You can also use the Nissin MG 10 with the Leica commander as the firmware update required can be user implemented. To use i60's from Nissin with the Leica commander those flashes will need to be returned to the importer for a firmware update, at cost after which they will also work with the Leica commander. The SF60 and any updated Nissin units will give you TTL and manual controls with multiple groups. HSS is limited though. Go through the various threads here and you'll get the gist of it. Silbeers is probably the go to guy on the forums about the Nissin/Leica flash compatibility. His posts are particularly useful.

For manual flash any number of off camera options are available. Profoto, Godox and Elinchrom (plus others) all work. None offer Leica TTL. But for full manual they're fine.

Gordon

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
On 1/5/2020 at 1:06 PM, chicagophoto said:

I use the standard profoto remote all the time on an SL and SL2 along with a couple A1's and any of the Profoto Lights, D1, B1, B2 and  B10 and never had a problem. No TTL or HSS.

Copy that and thanks so much for your reply! Looking forward to using some ProFoto b1x and b10’s for a editorial this weekend in Joshua tree for Stetson on the SL2!

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Join the conversation

You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.
Note: Your post will require moderator approval before it will be visible.

Guest
Reply to this topic...

×   Pasted as rich text.   Paste as plain text instead

  Only 75 emoji are allowed.

×   Your link has been automatically embedded.   Display as a link instead

×   Your previous content has been restored.   Clear editor

×   You cannot paste images directly. Upload or insert images from URL.

Loading...

  • Similar Content

    • By hoppyman
      I recently shot a project in window light 1600 ISO f/2 with the 35 Summicron. I saw a wide and unexpected variation in the DNG files shot to shot.
      I experimented with different metering options combined with different focus methods, where understandably there will be variation in results.
      However setting manual exposure (here) 1/320 f/2 with zero compensation set I saw a large difference in the results (no visible change in the available light).
      The EXIF reports the settings unchanged shot to shot but the results are hugely different. These shots 3 seconds apart.
      I hadn't seen this in a previous project with similar conditions.
      I don't think I have made some basic error but (and I am a couple of thousand frames in with the SL2 so far) but I can't account for this so suggest away. My only speculation is about which shutter mode was operating (in hybrid).

      Any suggestions/comments on a possible cause would be welcome.
      No there was no solar eclipse or visible change in the light from window.

      Hello guest! Please register or sign in to view the hidden content. Hallo Gast! Du willst die Bilder sehen? Einfach registrieren oder anmelden!
      Hello guest! Please register or sign in to view the hidden content. Hallo Gast! Du willst die Bilder sehen? Einfach registrieren oder anmelden!
    • By Big John
      Had the SL for a few years - really happy with it, great IQ. Don’t like the size and weight so tend to use it with ZEISS ZM lenses. 
      Thinking of switching to SL2..
      Attractions for me:
      1. IBIS for using M (or ZM) lenses.
      2. Improved EVF. 

      3. Larger, higher res rear panel. 
      4  Quick view menu.
      5. Grip and restyling of body. 
       
      Things putting me off - only 1:
      1. I don’t need 47mp. 
       
      So.....thinking I could shoot at Medium resolution setting (which is 24mp) and also use TL lenses (to manage the size and weight concern) to get 20mp files.  I would use 47mp when the image demands it - so 24 as a go to size (street, family etc) and 47 for specific occasions (landscapes etc).  I know that concerns on high ISO won’t be addressed by shooting at lower res (due to  pixel density). 
       
      Anyone else thinking like this?  Thanks. 
    • By hoppyman
      I have just seen that it is now possible to register the SL2 in the owners area of Leica's website
      When I did that I found that there are two versions of the production current, one for E, U JP, CH and one called ROW. (Rest of World???) Mine is ROW and the serial numbers are different for each version'
      I have no idea what the differences are. Possibly it may account for what seem to be some small functions differences I have read referred to in the Forum here. I don't seem to be able to select different Profiles for example, whereas I have read that others can. Or that may be be error on my part.
      My SL2 is from an authorised Australian dealer and one of the first shipment available here I think. I had thought that Australian stock came via Singapore for whatever that is worth.
      I never got the correct cable with AUS plug for the charger. It is a standard figure 8 lead though.
       
    • By Sjz
      Hi,
      i am looking for some advice.  
       
      I enjoy landscape / cityscape / street photography (I have a cl for street, it replaced my Fuji x-100t). I recently moved from Canon to the SL2.  Still at the foothills of the learning curve.
      I have the 24-90 on the camera most of the time.  I also have the Summicron 35 and the Sigma 14-24.  I am swallowing hard at the cost of the 90-280 especially as I have a Mark I Canon 100-400.
      Now for the questions:
      Does anyone use canon’s  Mark I 100-400 on the SL2? Are there alternatives which people could recommend which would take me up to around the 300mm maybe 400mm? Does not have to be a zoom. Sorry for the long question and thank you in advance
    • By Sjz
      Hi,
      I am in the fortunate position of travelling to South Africa (near Cape Town).  Photography is not the purpose of the trip but it would be ‘rude’ not to take a camera.
      I have a cl, which I am excited about.  It is a recent purchase with the kit 18mm lens.  It replaces my Fuji x100t which I really enjoyed but I wanted to be able to change lens’ and I preferred the cl to Fuji x-pro 3.
      i just like having a camera in my jacket pocket, hence the 18mm.  Physical, it makes the cl very similar to the X-100 series.
      Now for the questions:
      Is the 23 Summicron significantly better quality than the 18mm (I cant find the physical length lens so will pop into shop to see)? Is the APO-VARIO-ELMAR-TL 55-135MM considered to have a ‘good’ IQ? Should I be looking at other L-Mount lens?  I have a SL2 and the 35mm Summicron, the 24-90 and an underused Sigma 14-24, but I would rather travel with something more compact and in line with the cl. The photography I like is mainly landscape but of course, a bit of street and social photography too.
      Thank you for your help in advance.
       
  • Recently Browsing   0 members

    No registered users viewing this page.

×
×
  • Create New...

Important Information

By using this site, you agree to our Terms of Use. We have placed cookies on your device to help make this website better. You can adjust your cookie settings, otherwise we'll assume you're okay to continue., Read more about our Privacy Policy