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Scanning 6X6 (Hasselblad)


jonnyboy

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5 hours ago, 250swb said:

It's not very sharp?

Edit - I've just had a look at it in Photoshop and I don't think you've sharpened the image at all because it can be improved a vast amount with a bit of sharpening and some increase in mid-tone contrast. Also a tip, don't use Greyscale for monochrome images, always use sRGB or Adobe RGB

There's at least a dozen things I did incorrectly or could have improved, but appreciate the suggestion. This was my test to try the process out and whether the Monochrom would be suitable for doing it. I think the answer is yes.

I also picked the first negative that I came across with a wide tonal range, details in the shadows and highlights (albeit a bit blown). Try with a difficult source negative and work with that first. Regarding sharpness.... Likely missed focusing at the time of capture (12 years ago), as the Monochrom was focused on the grain in the negative.

Still.... fun exercise, and I'm going to try a few more this weekend. Would love to capture everyone's suggestions in a wiki. Ahem.

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2 hours ago, t00l1024 said:

There's at least a dozen things I did incorrectly or could have improved, but appreciate the suggestion. This was my test to try the process out and whether the Monochrom would be suitable for doing it. I think the answer is yes.

I also picked the first negative that I came across with a wide tonal range, details in the shadows and highlights (albeit a bit blown). Try with a difficult source negative and work with that first. Regarding sharpness.... Likely missed focusing at the time of capture (12 years ago), as the Monochrom was focused on the grain in the negative.

Still.... fun exercise, and I'm going to try a few more this weekend. Would love to capture everyone's suggestions in a wiki. Ahem.

I think the focus on the original is ok, when I did some sharpening to check using Photoshop it comes out fine even though it's a small file. That is why I subsequently edited what I said. Ideally you should leave sharpening until the end of post processing anyway. I could post my effort at post processing it if you wanted.

Edited by 250swb
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1 hour ago, 250swb said:

I think the focus on the original is ok, when I did some sharpening to check using Photoshop it comes out fine even though it's a small file. That is why I subsequently edited what I said. Ideally you should leave sharpening until the end of post processing anyway. I could post my effort at post processing it if you wanted.

Please! 
 

I’ll never turn down helpful suggestions. Thank you!

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Here you are. The image is sharpened but it's not perfect because it's a small file. Opened the centre of the image up by making the mid tones lighter, a bit of edge burning to contain the main subject, a small amount of toning for the dark and mid tones. With the full file you could do much better. I used a warm tone because I like it, but equally a slight cool tone could accentuate the cold.

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Edited by 250swb
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7 hours ago, 250swb said:

Here you are. The image is sharpened but it's not perfect because it's a small file. Opened the centre of the image up by making the mid tones lighter, a bit of edge burning to contain the main subject, a small amount of toning for the dark and mid tones. With the full file you could do much better. I used a warm tone because I like it, but equally a slight cool tone could accentuate the cold.

Fantastic! Thank you very much! It's actually interesting and good to see other people's perspectives on the view & image I had of this. Thanks for taking the time to do some edits and share your view. 😄

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Here's another from the Feb 2008 outing.

 

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  • 4 weeks later...

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Hi 

This is a Rolleicord Ilford HP5 Negative scanned on a Epson 800 Flatbed Scanner.

Hope it helps to give you an idea of what to expect from the Epson Flatbed. I used the Silverfast software that is supplied with the scanner but after reading through this thread I think that I will also try the Epsonscan Software that was also supplied with it.

Maybe the best bit of advice is that given by 250 swb - don't try to get a finished looking print from any film scanner. Scan for a low contrast image that looks horrible but is full of detail. You can then adjust this to look how you want by loading the original scan TIFF into any program like Photoshop etc.

Regards Francis

 

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This is the Epson V800  with another Rolleicord negative on Ilford HP5

Silverfast software.

Hope this helps in showing you how the V800 performs. For me it seems to do everything that I want it to but as has been pointed out, you have to work really cleanly and be prepared to have a bit of spotting to do in PP.

I think that the V800 is a pretty good compromise in performance and price. From what I hear the Plustek 120 Scanner has a few problems of it's own despite the high end price. I think that it was to do with the negative loading system?

I dispensed with the original Epson negative holder and bought a glassless aftermarket one that is also adjustable in the height of the negative to give a small focus adjustment.

Regards Francis 

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Edited by Francran
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  • 2 months later...

In the end, I didn't go for any scanner, instead I'm using my Sony A7III with a Canon 100mm Macro lens on a tripod. I'm using an iPad pro as a light source, put some diffuser on top of it and place the film.

it's a bit fiddly to keep the film straight when moving frame to frame, I've been on the lookout for any decent 120 Holder but I can't find any that keeps the film borders in.

Edited by jonnyboy
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4 hours ago, jonnyboy said:

In the end, I didn't go for any scanner, instead I'm using my Sony A7III with a Canon 100mm Macro lens on a tripod. I'm using an iPad pro as a light source, put some diffuser on top of it and place the film.

it's a bit fiddly to keep the film straight when moving frame to frame, I've been on the lookout for any decent 120 Holder but I can't find any that keeps the film borders in.

I had the same problem, as I wanted to scan with the borders so at the end I made my own holder

Black tape guides the film in between 2 glass, top one is ANR, bottom one is a standard one. 

Edited by fatihayoglu
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Having played around  with trial and a lot of error am finally setup for 6*6 

The advantage for me with the Beoon is it is tiny and easy to store and get out of a cupboard without fuss.

Using a CL camera with just the C tube on a Leica Beoon with an El Nikkor 40mm lens.

This just (very snugly!) sits on top of  a 120  'Essential Film Holder' from Clifforth in the uk which seems very good.

https://clifforth.co.uk/

This is  placed on top of a Kaiser Slimlite Piano light panel.

Wanted to run a first trial sample 6*6 film to quickly process and test ...sorry it's a cat photo!

One tip for anyone using a CL and the self timer.... tape over the flashing light I didn't know existed on the front to signify timer in progress...spent hours

thinking I had some sort of burn marks on the negative/stray light in camera!

(Hasselblad with 80mm CFE & Ilford Delta 100)

 

 

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1 hour ago, Phil_P said:

Having played around  with trial and a lot of error am finally setup for 6*6 

The advantage for me with the Beoon is it is tiny and easy to store and get out of a cupboard without fuss.

Using a CL camera with just the C tube on a Leica Beoon with an El Nikkor 40mm lens.

This just (very snugly!) sits on top of  a 120  'Essential Film Holder' from Clifforth in the uk which seems very good.

https://clifforth.co.uk/

This is  placed on top of a Kaiser Slimlite Piano light panel.

Wanted to run a first trial sample 6*6 film to quickly process and test ...sorry it's a cat photo!

One tip for anyone using a CL and the self timer.... tape over the flashing light I didn't know existed on the front to signify timer in progress...spent hours

thinking I had some sort of burn marks on the negative/stray light in camera!

(Hasselblad with 80mm CFE & Ilford Delta 100)

 

 

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Nice setup and wow gorgeous scan!! so good!

I like the idea to have something not too big but I'm using a Sony A7III with Canon 100MM Macro to scan and there may not be enough distance between the lens and the film.

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  • 5 months later...
On 10/9/2020 at 11:00 AM, Phil_P said:

Having played around  with trial and a lot of error am finally setup for 6*6 

The advantage for me with the Beoon is it is tiny and easy to store and get out of a cupboard without fuss.

Using a CL camera with just the C tube on a Leica Beoon with an El Nikkor 40mm lens.

This just (very snugly!) sits on top of  a 120  'Essential Film Holder' from Clifforth in the uk which seems very good.

https://clifforth.co.uk/

This is  placed on top of a Kaiser Slimlite Piano light panel.

Wanted to run a first trial sample 6*6 film to quickly process and test ...sorry it's a cat photo!

One tip for anyone using a CL and the self timer.... tape over the flashing light I didn't know existed on the front to signify timer in progress...spent hours

thinking I had some sort of burn marks on the negative/stray light in camera!

(Hasselblad with 80mm CFE & Ilford Delta 100)

 

 

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Simply register for free here – We are always happy to welcome new members!

This setup unfortunately did not work for me (CL + L to M adapter + BEOON + C tube + 40mm Focotar for 6 x 6 neg held in EFH over light box).  
 

The more straightforward M240 + BEOON + A ring + Apo Summicron 50 works just fine. 

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