Scanning 6X6 (Hasselblad)

[Doc Henry]

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Stuart since 2014 I develop myself all films b&w or color , a great pleasure and with my Leica cameras ( and sometimes I in light difficult situation I need my Gossen lighmeter)  

Really I don't correct my pictures. Sometimes I have underexpos or  overexpos picture I don't take them , but in general all my pictures are fine.Like you I don't like and use SF or VS.

I use EpsonScan when I have my V700 it's simple  and now with Nikon I use the original software of Nikon scan in linear curve with no correction in TIFF. 

Best Henry 

[jonnyboy]

Is it striclty necessary to have a tripod when shooting negatives with dslr? I do have a tripod but not those ones which you can tilt horizontally... what happen if I shoot by hand?

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[Stuart Richardson]

Jonny -- if you do not have a tripod it will be very difficult to hold the camera still, which will lead to camera shake, moreover, film is perfectly flat and if you do not have a tripod, it will be very difficult to line it up properly. This will mean that you will need to correct your perspective, but beyond that, it means that the focal plane will not be flat within your picture, and one area of the negative may be sharper than another. At the distances you will shoot at with a 100mm lens, your depth of field will only be a few mm. If you do not have a tripod or copy stand, I think you will get better results with a scanner...even a cheap desktop one.

 

Henry -- I guess we disagree regarding semantics. Even if you are not adjusting the negatives, the scan software is. There is no "correct" with negative film. There wasn't even in the film days. Whether you make the choices or let the software make the choices, choices are still being made.

[jonnyboy]

I found this to be quite interesting:

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Leica Beoom! Im wondering if anyone in here ever used it - I would like to attach my Sony A7iii to it - will it work?

From google research it seems to have a Leica mount so it definitely need either a Leica body with conversion or a Leica lens with conversion?

 

Edited December 19, 2019 by jonnyboy

[Doug A]

5 hours ago, jonnyboy said:

I found this to be quite interesting:

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Leica Beoom! Im wondering if anyone in here ever used it - I would like to attach my Sony A7iii to it - will it work?

From google research it seems to have a Leica mount so it definitely need either a Leica body with conversion or a Leica lens with conversion?

 

I use a BEOON for all of my 35mm film scanning. To use it as designed it needs a full frame Leica (or compatible) body and a 50mm Leica (or compatible) camera lens. The A7iii will work fine with a Leica M adapter or with a Leica M adapter plus an M to LTM adapter. The body and lens must both be M mount or both be LTM mount. (There is a dedicated M to LTM adapter as part of the BEOON that attaches either above or below the arm supporting the camera and lens.)

The BEOON includes a dedicated loupe for focusing the camera, but a live view camera will make things a lot easier.

Some other arrangements can be made to work if everything is M mount or LTM mount, but there are no guaranties. (I use an APSC Fuji X-T20 with Fuji/M and M/LTM adapters with a 50mm Schneider Componon enlarging lens and a 40mm extension tube.)

[chrism]

Really good film scanners are most useful for smaller negatives (unsurprisingly). Because I can, I do use a Flextight X1 and a Nikon 9000 for 6x6, but they don't win massively over a flatbed for this large a negative. I'd be content with an Epson flatbed for 6x6, and I have a 4780 and a V850 that can do the job just fine. 35mm negatives are the ones where you really want to use the best scanner you can.

Somewhere here, I posted scans of a 4x5 negative done with the V850 and with the X1. There is still a discernible advantage to the X1, but it's very slight.

[mradey]

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On 12/14/2019 at 7:59 PM, tommonego@gmail.com said:

I I have been thinking about the Nikon 9000ed medium format scanner but the firewire interface is a negative, I would have to buy a desktop to interface. If you have an old Mac or PC with firewire the Nikon would be the best choice. 

 

I might be misinterpreting you here but it's possible to connect the 9000ED to a modern computer. Indeed, my 9000ED is connected to my 2019 iMac - via the firewire cable and a couple ( 😉 ) of converters. Heathcliffe? Yes! But works faultlessly.

[plasticman]

I also have a 9000 coupled via a FireWire-to-USB adapter to my 2016 MBP - so no problems with FireWire, so long as the adapters remain available.

The results from the Coolscan and Silverfast are incredible, and hardly need any post-processing with ColorPerfect afterwards, but I’ve seen some setups with a copy-stand and a DSLR that does sensor-shifting for ultra-high resolution that make me curious. I’d love to do a comparison.

[frame-it]

http://lamlux.net/2016/02/23/digitizing-negatives-with-a-digital-camera/

[Ouroboros]

10 hours ago, plasticman said:

I also have a 9000 coupled via a FireWire-to-USB adapter to my 2016 MBP - so no problems with FireWire, so long as the adapters remain available.

....and your scanner driver/software remains compatible with your OS, too.

That's something that's unlikely to ever be an issue with dslr scanning 35mm originals.

Edited December 26, 2019 by Ouroboros

[plasticman]

10 hours ago, Ouroboros said:

....and your scanner driver/software remains compatible with your OS, too.

This is true, but right now I’m running (and intend to continue to do so) Mojave on the MBP, and start it up running Catalina instead by simply choosing an external 1TB SSD as the startup disk when needed.

This works perfectly, and the only reason more people don’t run multiple OS versions concurrently like this (I often see people express the need to do so), is that it’s not widely known to be possible (and Apple don’t really want people to know it is).

[philipus]

I'm unfashionably late to the party as ever. I completely agree with you Stuart that CP is excellent, truly excellent. And I also feel that it unfortunately has a much too complex and illogical design. Haha, it makes Vuescan look easy in comparison.

That said, there is a way to use it to get a good enough start for further processing. I just open the image in CP and then cycle through the presets using the strangely named button Restore Settings. In 99% of the cases that will give me a good-enough image. Then I OK out and save the file and do the rest in Adobe Camera Raw which I find is great and easy to use.

I had a look at the Negative Lab Pro and watched the video on the front page. It struck me that it does exactly what CP + ACR do. I totally disagree with that video's description that using anything but NLP would be fiddly etc. The workflow I us takes literally a few seconds per image.

 

 

On 12/16/2019 at 11:13 AM, Stuart Richardson said:

I tried Negative Lab Pro and it is ok, but not nearly as good as ColorPerfect. Unfortunately ColorPerfect is very difficult to learn and use, so Negative Lab Pro is probably the better option for most people. 

[Stealth3kpl]

 

[DickieT]

I am considering buying a Coolscan 9000 in addition to my Coolscan 5000 to scan 6x6. Is it confirmed that a FW400-FW800 cable combined with a FW800 to Thurderbolt 2 converter connected to a Thunderbolt 2 to Thunderbolt3/USBC converter works just fine with VueScan on a 2019 MBP ?

Thanks for your help - glad I never sold my 5000 :))

[stray cat]

7 hours ago, DickieT said:

I am considering buying a Coolscan 9000 in addition to my Coolscan 5000 to scan 6x6. Is it confirmed that a FW400-FW800 cable combined with a FW800 to Thurderbolt 2 converter connected to a Thunderbolt 2 to Thunderbolt3/USBC converter works just fine with VueScan on a 2019 MBP ?

Thanks for your help - glad I never sold my 5000 :))

Yes, I can confirm that. It's what I'm using.

[DickieT]

Thanks !

 

[t00l1024]

This was my first attempt at trying the digital camera - film negative acquisition process. I'm claiming relevance to this forum because the digital camera was a Leica M10 Monochrom, M->R adapter and a 60mm R Macro lens. 🙂 Source was a Hasselblad 500CM + 80mm Zeiss using T-MAX 400.

Old [crappy] light box + tripod + Leica Fotos App for remote shutter. Post process was Negative Lab Pro plus Lightroom adjustments (and cleaning up dust & scratches). For trying this on a whim, I was quite impressed with the result.

 

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[250swb]

It's not very sharp?

Edit - I've just had a look at it in Photoshop and I don't think you've sharpened the image at all because it can be improved a vast amount with a bit of sharpening and some increase in mid-tone contrast. Also a tip, don't use Greyscale for monochrome images, always use sRGB or Adobe RGB

Edited June 19, 2020 by 250swb

[DickieT]

You are fine scanning grey scale - just use his grey profile prior to conversion : https://forums.negativelabpro.com/t/using-negative-lab-pro-with-vuescan-raw-dng-scans/25/43. It avoids 400 Mb files

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Hallo,

Look here: Interesting Leica gear

[250swb]

57 minutes ago, DickieT said:

You are fine scanning grey scale - just use his grey profile prior to conversion : https://forums.negativelabpro.com/t/using-negative-lab-pro-with-vuescan-raw-dng-scans/25/43. It avoids 400 Mb files

Greyscale is for the print industry, because 'grey' seems sensible just because it's halfway between black and white doesn't make it an ideal option for post processing monochrome images. Scanned images should be saved as 16bit RGB TIFF files, or .dng (the same practical effect), and post processed as a RGB TIFF and saved again after post processing as a RGB TIFF, at no point should they be converted to 'Greyscale'. Save a copy as a sRGB JPEG for web use.

Edited June 19, 2020 by 250swb