Film Processing

[tommonego@gmail.com]

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In knew it, getting back into film is going to make me want to get back to doing my own processing. Problem is I don't have a darkroom or any place to develop, we just had the kitchen redone my wife would not be happy. Possibly a bathroom but it wouldn't be all that convenient, small with no place to store the chemistry when I am not working. 

Just received the first B&W roll I have shot on TMAX 400. This film is very sensitive to processing, back in the day I would only use TMAX developer with it. Gave it a real long tonal range. What I received back has blocked highlights (was a snowy day) and little detail in the shadows, looks a little under developed, even with the highlights. What I would get with D-76 developer and TMAX. I am going to have to try scanning the film myself to get TIFF files to work with, Jpegs fall apart too easily.

I understand TMAX developer is getting hard to come by and most people are using XTOL. So what I am looking for is a lab that specializes in B&W in the US. Any suggestions?

[a.noctilux]

Hello,

T-max Developper is always available here in shop Montpellier where I buy when I need.

In Europe, we can buy on line, like here, Berlin Photoimpex

I think that where you live, you may buy online also.

 

As I don't process much, since 2008 I take time to process with old Rondinax ( link ), before that I used only slides.

more Rondinax, here

 

Quote

Advantages of using Rondinax-like developing tanks are:

• Film loading and processing does not require a darkroom or changing bag. The main selling point of these tanks during their entire life on the market. They are particularly useful for those photographers who use film but then scan their negatives rather than making silver-based prints.
• The film is not touched by hand during loading and processing, removing the possibility of finger prints on the negaive.
• Economy in using developer and fixer – only half the volume of normal tanks.
• In the Rondinax 35 lengths shorter than the full 36 exposures can be processed allowing the rest of the film to be used.
• There is said to be no need to dry the spiral before loading the next film.

Disadvantages are:

• Spiral must be turned by hand during continuously during developing and fixing.
• 35 mm films must not be fully rewound into the cassette. If they are the end of the film must be retrieved using an appropriate device.

 

Edited November 21, 2019 by a.noctilux

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[tommonego@gmail.com]

Did a double take with saying you shop in Montpellier, our state capital is Montpelier (one L). Didn't know of any photo stores there, don't think I could get to your Montpellier by car. the one problem I have is there are no photo stores near by, nearest I know of is about 100km away. Some stores won't ship liquids, especially B&H who I use a lot.

I use stainless steel reels and cans for processing. There are somewhere in my attic.

[a.noctilux]

😀 Funny I didn't know Montpelier, Vermont.

Now I see where Montpelier is.

The link provided ... Photoimpex, Berlin states " Worldwide Shipping Possible " , so you may ask them.

[Ko.Fe.]

I have no darkroom. I also have no problem to develop film.  Bw is easy and no mess. Concentrated hc-110 or Rodinal. Small bottle. Small bottle of stop bath. Small boutle of fixer and small bottle of photoFlo. They could be kept anywhere and so is working mix of stop, fixer and after wash. It takes no space, no mess. It only comes with paper.

[TomB_tx]

Freestyle photographic will ship anything you need.

[spydrxx]

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Get an old Leica/Rondinax 35U daylight tank and you don't have to concern yourself with a darkroom or changing bag.

[erniethemilk]

I’ve just started developing my own black and white film. Tossed up between getting a lab box or going the more conventional route with a dark bag and tank. Went the simple option of a dark bag and Patterson tank and I’m loving it so far!

Mess wise in spite of what I was thinking no complaints as yet from the Wife of doing it in the kitchen. 😂

[ianman]

49 minutes ago, erniethemilk said:

Went the simple option of a dark bag and Patterson tank and I’m loving it so far!

I think that's the best choice. I have a old Rondinax which is fine... but only one film at a time is a pain, as is the constant turning. The new copied system seems no better.

[ianman]

16 hours ago, Ko.Fe. said:

I have no darkroom. I also have no problem to develop film.  Bw is easy and no mess. Concentrated hc-110 or Rodinal. Small bottle. Small bottle of stop bath. Small boutle of fixer and small bottle of photoFlo. They could be kept anywhere and so is working mix of stop, fixer and after wash. It takes no space, no mess. It only comes with paper.

Our set up and chemicals are very similar. I use a Jobo hose for washing, it fits right into the Paterson tank. I have very hard water here and used to get traces all over my negs. The hose really seems to make a difference.

Edited November 22, 2019 by ianman

[erniethemilk]

5 hours ago, ianman said:

I think that's the best choice. I have a old Rondinax which is fine... but only one film at a time is a pain, as is the constant turning. The new copied system seems no better.

Thanks, I’m pretty sure I made the right choice for me. I felt as if the lab box was a vessel for selling liquid more than a solution to a problem. 
 

Early days I know, but practice will only make me better at it.
 

 

[Einst_Stein]

If only developing films, B&W and C41 now a day is almost equally convenient. 

Besides the chemical and tanks, you'll find a good temperature controlled immersion water heater very helpful. Such as this https://www.amazon.com/Immersion-Haofy-Stainless-Electric-Thermometer/dp/B07XDHVXF6/ref=sr_1_2_sspa?keywords=immersion+water+heater+temeprature+controll&qid=1574465076&sr=8-2-spons&psc=1&spLa=ZW5jcnlwdGVkUXVhbGlmaWVyPUExV0tIMTlTVkZSTzZXJmVuY3J5cHRlZElkPUEwNDcyNTU3MkhaRDczR1ZFN01USyZlbmNyeXB0ZWRBZElkPUEwNTQ1OTg2SUlXNVRGRU1OSE45JndpZGdldE5hbWU9c3BfbXRmJmFjdGlvbj1jbGlja1JlZGlyZWN0JmRvTm90TG9nQ2xpY2s9dHJ1ZQ==

I use my face washing sink in the bath room as my water bath, heated by the mentioned heater. Afterward, I put the chemicals, tanks, and bottles under the sink. The major problem (complaints) from my wife is the smell of the fixer. For that, I have to turn on the bathroom fans keep the fixer in a nice sealed container, such as the finished candy jar/box (metal or glass). 

Oh, by the way, if you are concerning the C41 chemical price or the concentrate shelf life, try Rollei C41, it is practically same as  HC100 or the similar. It can be as low as $0.9 per 36-exp. https://www.bhphotovideo.com/c/search?ci=595&fct=fct_chemistry-type_2223%7cc-41-kits-cartridges%2bfct_brand_name%7crollei&N=4288586380&

Edited November 22, 2019 by Einst_Stein

[Doc Henry]

On 11/21/2019 at 10:30 PM, tommonego@gmail.com said:

In knew it, getting back into film is going to make me want to get back to doing my own processing. Problem is I don't have a darkroom or any place to develop, we just had the kitchen redone my wife would not be happy. Possibly a bathroom but it wouldn't be all that convenient, small with no place to store the chemistry when I am not working. 

Just received the first B&W roll I have shot on TMAX 400. This film is very sensitive to processing, back in the day I would only use TMAX developer with it. Gave it a real long tonal range. What I received back has blocked highlights (was a snowy day) and little detail in the shadows, looks a little under developed, even with the highlights. What I would get with D-76 developer and TMAX. I am going to have to try scanning the film myself to get TIFF files to work with, Jpegs fall apart too easily.

I understand TMAX developer is getting hard to come by and most people are using XTOL. So what I am looking for is a lab that specializes in B&W in the US. Any suggestions?

Tom,  kitchen or bathroom is a good place for lab process and you can work quiet at night when the family is sleeping !

One board above the tub and a water tap next to  it is great for a  lab .

D76 and Kodak TMax are fine for grain and nice black tone 

Picture attached : Kodak D76 dilution 1:1 - 8 minutes - 20-22°C in Patterson Tank in continuous rotation as in C41 color process. 

Photo UNcorrected  Leica MP - 50 Summilux Asph -  Kodak TMAX400 

Best H 

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[tommonego@gmail.com]

I think I am getting the logistics for this down. I have the equipment in my attic, a room that will go black, and a room with a tub for processing. The only problem I am trying to work out is where to store the chemicals. I live in an 1840s farm house with no closets, our basement is barely heated, why I can't build a darkroom there, while I have space, or store chemicals. 

I was never happy with D-76 1:1 for TMax development. A compensating developer in my usage works better. I have seen other photographers use D-23 2 bath process. But TMax developer always worked for me, decent grain on 400 and no perceivable grain on 100. While I really disliked the negatives and scans I received from my roll my Epson 700 pulled in the shadows on scans and didn't block the highlights. So I am good with that. I'll get this going.

[Doc Henry]

...  to store it needs less place just keep chemicals in bottles well cap and put in a small closet at the edge of the light !

Rg Henry 

Edited November 23, 2019 by Doc Henry

[Doc Henry]

...  my home  lab 

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[tommonego@gmail.com]

When I moved to Vermont there was no way to easily put a darkroom in so I didn't. Had one in Massachusetts that had temp controlled water, big sink etc. Wasn't until the last couple of months that I miss it. Still have the water panel, but barely heated basement etc, make it difficult. Gave my enlarger and printing equipment to a school. Have to go back to my college darkroom for the vision. 

[250swb]

On 11/23/2019 at 1:52 PM, tommonego@gmail.com said:

The only problem I am trying to work out is where to store the chemicals.

I think most people would get by with storing them under the kitchen sink. A small plastic washing up bowl would store your dev and fix, daylight tank, and stock chemicals (if you buy smaller bottles). Get a small table top tent that folds away for loading, and encourage your wife to go shopping all day with her friends when you want to process. 

Otherwise are there any darkrooms you can hire in your area, or college darkrooms, or camera clubs etc. Considering that people who do outdoor large format wet plate photography have to process their film from the back of a car or stand up tent you should find it possible to find some way to process a roll of 35mm.

Edited November 26, 2019 by 250swb

[tommonego@gmail.com]

Reading a book on Carlton Watkins a late 19th century wet plate photographer. He was based in San Francisco, traveled all over California and Oregon making pictures so iconic, that Ansel Adams would try not to do the same picture. At his height he would travel with 9 people and a mule train. He shot what was called mammoth plates that I believe was 16 x 22 inches. A picture of his "Wreck of the Viscata" shows his dark tent and wagon he used for getting around San Francisco. There is another picture taken from a camp fire of his camera on top of his log distance wagon. How this guy could get even coverage of his plates being so large take the picture and develop them before they dry is mind boggling, a total master. Unfortunately most of his work was destroyed in the San Francisco 1906 earthquake, also Harvard biology and geology departments had a huge collection of his work and both departments threw out Watkin's prints in moves. 

Alfred Stieglitz and Edward Steichen would wash their Lake George negatives and prints in local streams. There are ways to do this. 

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[250swb]

I was thinking more of contemporary photographers such as Sally Mann who find ways to process their plates in the modern environment without a mule train. But yes, they were hero's in the olden days and found the ways to get things done.