Any advice for post-processing of MM1 dng files?

[dimm]

Advertisement (gone after registration)

Just got my first MM1

Shooting dng with underexposure 1/3 - 2/3.

Any advice how to post-process these files in the Lightroom? 

Any receipts for settings (whites, blacks etc.)? 

Thanks

Edited November 14, 2019 by dimm

[a.noctilux]

I don't use Lightroom, but may I think that DNG files can be processed with most software.

Just try with what you have.

Monochrom can deliver good images, even when not underexposed, in most case.

As seen in my practice, the base calibration is already toward underexposure in my two Monochrom.

Only when in contre-jour situation, or tricky lightings this may lead to even more underexpose, I'd bracket in manual if possible.

 

Have a look at the histogram at first, you would loose some shadows.

[Advertisement]

The Leica Q3 is available for pre-order at B&H Photo Video and Adorama

[Likaleica]

If you hold down the Option key on a Mac in Lightroom you can move the white and black sliders until you first start to see elements of the picture (blown highlights or black blacks).  Curves is also extremely useful.  You might consider getting Silver Effex Pro 2

[Jeff S]

Do you have experience using LR and processing pics using other cameras?  The Monochrom is a nice camera, but the principles of PP, and the importance of your rendering style and intent, remain the same.

I can recommend some resources, written or video, if general knowledge regarding LR techniques would be beneficial.  Beyond that, their are myriad possibilities for interpreting a given image or developing a personal style.  The techniques are easily learned... deciding when, where and to what degree to apply those techniques is what makes us all different.

Jeff

[DwF]

15 hours ago, dimm said:

Just got my first MM1

Shooting dng with underexposure 1/3 - 2/3.

Any advice how to post-process these files in the Lightroom? 

Any receipts for settings (whites, blacks etc.)? 

Thanks

I suggest that you find a scene (say a landscape) to shoot. Take time to bracket using the histogram rather than just metering and automatically underexposing. The histogram is very useful in determining exposure across the tonal spectrum. If you make and read the  histogram, from under to over-exposed files, you'll get a sense of where adjustments need to be made, and to your taste. Your underexposing suggests that you are aware not to let highlights blowout on the MM. 

[dimm]

Thank you, friends

[AceVentura1986]

Advertisement (gone after registration)

I still use Lightroom v6 and am reasonably happy w it. The OOC images are a bit flat so I bump the “whites” and “clarity” slider by 25 points each and set a tone curve that looks a bit like a candy cane in that it’s curved upward near the “whites” but un altered near the “blacks”. Also, I usually apply a slight vignette to darken the corners and some digital gain as well. The goal is to make the image look as filmic as possible. 

 

Finally, I find I get better results in high ISO situations if I cap my ISO at 1600 and then push in Lightroom rather than just shoot at ISOs higher than 1600 in camera. The files are very pliable in this regard  

[LeicaS2]

I agree with trying Silver Efex Pro. Use their trial and see that they give you much more than LR. So start with LR, make your best adjustments and then edit a LR copy in Silver Efex Pro.

[Ken Abrahams]

I have profiles set for my various lenses in Lightroom so its quick to run the basic settings for sharpening and lens profiles etc. I always set highlights to off - slider completely to the left and manually adjust sharpness masking to suit. The image then goes into Photoshop where perspectives and cropping are completed followed by a curve layer selected for auto. All my tonal adjustments and contrasts are completed to taste depending on how I am concealing and revealing the subject matter. From here I may step over into Silver Effex or straight to Camera Raw filter to complete the image. In silver effex I would usually apply a healthy dose of contrast and then adjust using soft contrast to the left hand side of slider calibration. This balances the contrasts nicely. I might then add control points to subject and add structure/contrast locally. Once back in photoshop from silver effete I go to camera raw and check highlight range and maybe a very small amount of clarity and last fine tuning of blacks/whites and some post crop vignetting. Occasionally I might use other filters instead of silver effect such as Topaz or no filters whatsoever but always finish off in camera raw. 

[Ken Abrahams]

With the MM1 one always strives to achieve the best exposure in camera otherwise any chance of post processing the image and drawing the benefits of these CCD files is pointless. An easy technique when shooting on the fly is to find those bright spots in the scene and aim the centre of the viewfinder at them while pressing and holding a half shutter. Return to the desired frame/composition and press the rest of the shutter to make the exposure with this highlights in mind. Of course it depends on the ambient light. I live in Australia and the harsh brightness is somewhat different to say, then light in Sweden.