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SL2 with Profoto and HSS Flashes


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I prefer the Profoto B10 paired with a SL2 as I get more consistent flash output with the manual setting on the B10 than with my SF64.  With the SF64, sometimes it fires, sometimes it doesn’t.  Really frustrating.  However, the flash fires every time with the B10.  

As I got the SL2 just 3 weeks ago, I noticed that I’m able to sync the SL2 with the B10 up to 1/320s instead of 1/250s without any black banding at all.  I only see the banding above 1/400s.  Technically, without HSS, I should see the banding if I exceed 1/250s.  I’m using the VE24-90 and that doesn’t hv any leaf shutter which is very weird.   With the older SL, I get banding at 1/320s & above which is normal.

Anybody encountered similar situations? 

 

 

 

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Edited by fotonutzz
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1 hour ago, fotonutzz said:

I prefer the Profoto B10 paired with a SL2 as I get more consistent flash output with the manual setting on the B10 than with my SF64.  With the SF64, sometimes it fires, sometimes it doesn’t.  Really frustrating.  However, the flash fires every time with the B10.  

As I got the SL2 just 3 weeks ago, I noticed that I’m able to sync the SL2 with the B10 up to 1/320s instead of 1/250s without any black banding at all.  I only see the banding above 1/400s.  Technically, without HSS, I should see the banding if I exceed 1/250s.  I’m using the VE24-90 and that doesn’t hv any leaf shutter which is very weird.   With the older SL, I get banding at 1/320s & above which is normal.

Anybody encountered similar situations? 

 

 

 

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Before the SF-C1 & MG10/SF60, I used to sync SL with Lumopro manual flash via Pocketwizard Plus IIIs at 1/400 Sec. However the results without black banding were not consistent.

What is the output of the B10?

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I use the following combo to be controlled by the SF-C1 Commander with full TTL/HSS capability:

1. Nissin MG10 (165W) as key light;

2. Leica SF60 as rim light;

3. Leica SF60 as fill light.

But I do use ND filters to bring the sync speed below HSS range as much as possible as HSS gets too much strobe power robbed off.

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I think it was mentioned above, but I wanted to also confirm that I reached out to Profoto Nordic and they said they had no plans to support Leica within their flash system. I had asked for a reason, but they did not elaborate. So at least for the near future, they do not plan to support Leica natively. That said, I use the A1 Nikon version and the Air Remote and B1 flashes with my Leica S, M and Panasonic S1, and they all work fine in manual mode, just not TTL. It would be useful for me sometimes with the A1 especially, but in general it is not insurmountable unless you have a minimum of time. 

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On 2/11/2020 at 4:09 AM, sillbeers15 said:

I use the following combo to be controlled by the SF-C1 Commander with full TTL/HSS capability:

1. Nissin MG10 (165W) as key light;

...

What version of MG10 is working with SF-C1 on SL2? Nissin only states Canon, Nikon, Fuji and Sony compatibility...?

Can you recommend any online store with a good price on it?

Tnx

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5 hours ago, profus said:

What version of MG10 is working with SF-C1 on SL2? Nissin only states Canon, Nikon, Fuji and Sony compatibility...?

Can you recommend any online store with a good price on it?

Tnx

As the MG10 only works with Nissin Air10s (Canon, Nikon,...) and SF-C1 (Leica transmitter & OEM by Nissin). SL2 is only compitable with Leica SF-C1 transmitter. As for the physical unit of MG10, there is no variation. You only need to download the firmware V5 or later from Nissin website for it to pair with the Leica SF-C1 transmitter.

I bought my MG10 from Nissin online store based in Hong Kong and the staff was helpful to assist me through the online purchace and courier the unit to Singapore.

Edited by sillbeers15
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On 2/10/2020 at 1:02 PM, fotonutzz said:

I prefer the Profoto B10 paired with a SL2 as I get more consistent flash output with the manual setting on the B10 than with my SF64.  With the SF64, sometimes it fires, sometimes it doesn’t.  Really frustrating.  However, the flash fires every time with the B10.  

As I got the SL2 just 3 weeks ago, I noticed that I’m able to sync the SL2 with the B10 up to 1/320s instead of 1/250s without any black banding at all.  I only see the banding above 1/400s.  Technically, without HSS, I should see the banding if I exceed 1/250s.  I’m using the VE24-90 and that doesn’t hv any leaf shutter which is very weird.   With the older SL, I get banding at 1/320s & above which is normal.

Anybody encountered similar situations? 

Which channel are you using to sync the B10 with the Air Remote? I had issues (flash not firing) in the past when mounting my A1 like this (next to camera) because the trigger was apparently too close to the strobe...changing to channel 8 fixed this, for whatever reason. So I am thinking if your ability to sync at 1/320s is a function of the channel or  distance between camera and strobe. I guess it shouldn't be (at least at normal distances) but I'd be interested to hear if you are able to sync this fast also with the strobe further away from the trigger. 

I am also wondering how feasible technically and legally it would be to buy a few Nikon version Profoto Air-TTL triggers (same pin configuration as Leica) and have someone hack them with reverse engineered Leica firmware...perhaps as a crowd-funding project, if Leica can't do it themselves, for whatever patent or other reasons.

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8 hours ago, albireo_double said:

Which channel are you using to sync the B10 with the Air Remote? I had issues (flash not firing) in the past when mounting my A1 like this (next to camera) because the trigger was apparently too close to the strobe...changing to channel 8 fixed this, for whatever reason. So I am thinking if your ability to sync at 1/320s is a function of the channel or  distance between camera and strobe. I guess it shouldn't be (at least at normal distances) but I'd be interested to hear if you are able to sync this fast also with the strobe further away from the trigger. 

I am also wondering how feasible technically and legally it would be to buy a few Nikon version Profoto Air-TTL triggers (same pin configuration as Leica) and have someone hack them with reverse engineered Leica firmware...perhaps as a crowd-funding project, if Leica can't do it themselves, for whatever patent or other reasons.

I set my Air Remote to channel A8.

When using some other channels, it doesn't work as it's too close.  So far, channel A8 at such close proximity seem to work for me.  

Was thinking of buying the Nikon Air TTL too until I read somewhere that it doesn't work.  Will be great if someone can hack the electronic signals and make it compatible to Leica. 

Sadly, my background is civil engineering & IT......

Need some electronics guru to hack it....

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9 hours ago, albireo_double said:

Which channel are you using to sync the B10 with the Air Remote? I had issues (flash not firing) in the past when mounting my A1 like this (next to camera) because the trigger was apparently too close to the strobe...changing to channel 8 fixed this, for whatever reason. So I am thinking if your ability to sync at 1/320s is a function of the channel or  distance between camera and strobe. I guess it shouldn't be (at least at normal distances) but I'd be interested to hear if you are able to sync this fast also with the strobe further away from the trigger. 

I am also wondering how feasible technically and legally it would be to buy a few Nikon version Profoto Air-TTL triggers (same pin configuration as Leica) and have someone hack them with reverse engineered Leica firmware...perhaps as a crowd-funding project, if Leica can't do it themselves, for whatever patent or other reasons.

Technically you can either hack your camera firmware to accept the Profoto transmitter or hack the lights to accept pairing with Leica SF-C1 commander.I think there is less risk trying the second. Also the fact is the light is passive, it is the controller within the light unit that tells it when to fire and how much to fire (either in TTL or Manual mode). If you can have the light unit controller circuit of a say Leica SF60 transplanted into a Profoto A1 (N) or B10, it should work!

Edited by sillbeers15
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On 2/10/2020 at 8:02 PM, fotonutzz said:

I prefer the Profoto B10 paired with a SL2 as I get more consistent flash output with the manual setting on the B10 than with my SF64.  With the SF64, sometimes it fires, sometimes it doesn’t.  Really frustrating.  However, the flash fires every time with the B10.  

As I got the SL2 just 3 weeks ago, I noticed that I’m able to sync the SL2 with the B10 up to 1/320s instead of 1/250s without any black banding at all.  I only see the banding above 1/400s.  Technically, without HSS, I should see the banding if I exceed 1/250s.  I’m using the VE24-90 and that doesn’t hv any leaf shutter which is very weird.   With the older SL, I get banding at 1/320s & above which is normal.

Anybody encountered similar situations? 

 

 

 

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Simply register for free here – We are always happy to welcome new members!

Check out the Profoto manual. The clue lies in the duration of the flash. Page 32 and 33 of the Profoto B10 and B10Plus manual. 1/320 is likely high probability of shutter opening overlapping with your flash duration, thus no banding.

Profoto is a precision company so the flash triggering lag time is likely consistent. Either your settings will deliver consistent no-banding or it will consistently band.

Theoretically, the flash duration needs to be longer than your shutter exposure time for no banding to occur unless ambient light is stronger than your flash power but syncing needs to be perfect every time.

Alternatively use the Leica Q. The leaf shutter works to 1/1000 with my B10s.

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I do believe that it will not be consistent across every SL or SL2 model because it doesn't seem likely that Leica will pay great attention to this degree of precision on their flash timing. I haven't tested with the SL2. 1/320 is also my limit on the SL.

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I use the profoto standard air remote with my SL2 and B1x lights. Works perfectly and I don't use hss, just lee ND filters for shallow depth of field in strong light within sync speed.

I still use canon too so use the canon remote with this cameras.

 

Profoto are definitely worth it after trying other brands over the years.

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