Mark Pope Posted August 8, 2007 Share #21 Posted August 8, 2007 Advertisement (gone after registration) There are those of us who have been shooting IR since we got our M8s <grin>. I've just done a spot of *very* basic experimentation in the back garden and my M8 to determine the focus shift with a Kood R72 filter. What I did was to set up a tape measure with an allen key as a focus point at 3m. I focused the camera on this using a VF magnifier and took shots wide-open with and without the R72 filter with my wide angle/'normal' lenses. I found the focus shift to be around 2m so, I now know the approximate focus compensation points for all my lenses: 21mm CV - half-way between the focus '.' and the '4' on the DOF scale 28mm CV - f4 on the DOF scale 35mm 'Cron f5.6 on the DOF scale 50mm 'Cron f11 on the DOF scale. As the sun's (sort of) shining and I need to take a walk, it's time to try this for real... Hope this is useful... Quote Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Advertisement Posted August 8, 2007 Posted August 8, 2007 Hi Mark Pope, Take a look here Infrablack. I'm sure you'll find what you were looking for!
Mark Pope Posted August 8, 2007 Share #22 Posted August 8, 2007 Here's a quick shot taken with the CV28 and IR72 filter at f4 (I think), using f4 as the DOF focus shift. It was quite windy so a wide-ish aperture was needed to stop subject movement. I originally focused on the leaf in front of the rose. I'm now fairly confident the other compensations I mentioned are there or thereabouts... Welcome, dear visitor! As registered member you'd see an image here… Simply register for free here – We are always happy to welcome new members! Quote Link to post Share on other sites Simply register for free here – We are always happy to welcome new members! ' data-webShareUrl='https://www.l-camera-forum.com/topic/30325-infrablack/?do=findComment&comment=324494'>More sharing options...
wlaidlaw Posted August 8, 2007 Share #23 Posted August 8, 2007 I've just done a spot of *very* basic experimentation in the back garden and my M8 to determine the focus shift with a Kood R72 filter. What I did was to set up a tape measure with an allen key as a focus point at 3m. I focused the camera on this using a VF magnifier and took shots wide-open with and without the R72 filter with my wide angle/'normal' lenses. I found the focus shift to be around 2m so, I now know the approximate focus compensation points for all my lenses: 21mm CV - half-way between the focus '.' and the '4' on the DOF scale 28mm CV - f4 on the DOF scale 35mm 'Cron f5.6 on the DOF scale 50mm 'Cron f11 on the DOF scale. As the sun's (sort of) shining and I need to take a walk, it's time to try this for real... Hope this is useful... Mark, That is extremely helpful - thank you. The DOF offset should be universal for all makes of lens with the same focal length, assuming they use the same COC. I was surprised the offset on the 50mm was as much. I am going to guess that 90mm will be between f16 and 22. Wilson Quote Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
scho Posted August 8, 2007 Share #24 Posted August 8, 2007 I use the CV 25mm f/4p Skopar frequently for IR landscapes and when shooting at f/8 there is plenty of DOF making focus shift compensation unnecessary. Quote Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mark Pope Posted August 8, 2007 Share #25 Posted August 8, 2007 Hi Carl, I take your point about being able to use DOF, but there are times when it may be desirable use a wider aperture - for example, to limit the effect of subject movement, without having to rely too heavily on a high ISO, or just to have some control over the DOF, which is why I decided to do the tests. Cracking pic BTW. Quote Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mark Pope Posted August 8, 2007 Share #26 Posted August 8, 2007 Mark, That is extremely helpful - thank you. Wilson Glad to be of service....do bear in mind my testing was rudimentary at best and YMMV. Cheers Quote Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mark Pope Posted August 9, 2007 Share #27 Posted August 9, 2007 Advertisement (gone after registration) Here's one taken last Sunday Morning... M8, 28 CV Nokton, IR72 filter. Processed in Adobe Lightroom...Waddya think? Welcome, dear visitor! As registered member you'd see an image here… Simply register for free here – We are always happy to welcome new members! Quote Link to post Share on other sites Simply register for free here – We are always happy to welcome new members! ' data-webShareUrl='https://www.l-camera-forum.com/topic/30325-infrablack/?do=findComment&comment=325186'>More sharing options...
wlaidlaw Posted August 9, 2007 Share #28 Posted August 9, 2007 Here's one taken last Sunday Morning... M8, 28 CV Nokton, IR72 filter. Processed in Adobe Lightroom...Waddya think? Mark, My own personal view is that IR works best with water in the image and plant life as large clumps of foliage in the mid distance, so that you see it as a pale mass(es) rather than individual leaves. Where you see the individual leaves, to my eyes it looks a bit artificial, which of course it is but you lose the eerie effect. I like the extreme perspective that railway lines give and the whole photo ends up with a abandoned 1940's feel to it - sums up our rail system. Wilson Quote Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
lars_bergquist Posted August 11, 2007 Author Share #29 Posted August 11, 2007 It seems to me that strong composition is what IR imagery needs most of all. The picture below is simple indeed, just a leafy path at about 9 A.M., but it is one of my favourites. The old man from the Age of Photography Welcome, dear visitor! As registered member you'd see an image here… Simply register for free here – We are always happy to welcome new members! Quote Link to post Share on other sites Simply register for free here – We are always happy to welcome new members! ' data-webShareUrl='https://www.l-camera-forum.com/topic/30325-infrablack/?do=findComment&comment=326889'>More sharing options...
Mark Pope Posted August 11, 2007 Share #30 Posted August 11, 2007 Wilson, thanks for your feedback. Lars, - lovely shot. Cheers Mark Quote Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
wlaidlaw Posted August 13, 2007 Share #31 Posted August 13, 2007 My 092 having finally arrived today, here a couple of my early efforts. Both taken with M8 + CV 35/1.2 Nokton. Wilson Welcome, dear visitor! As registered member you'd see an image here… Simply register for free here – We are always happy to welcome new members! Quote Link to post Share on other sites Simply register for free here – We are always happy to welcome new members! ' data-webShareUrl='https://www.l-camera-forum.com/topic/30325-infrablack/?do=findComment&comment=328656'>More sharing options...
carstenw Posted August 13, 2007 Share #32 Posted August 13, 2007 Fascinating colour shifts. I am still waiting for mine It will be a lot of fun to discover how it works in various situations. Quote Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
ho_co Posted August 13, 2007 Share #33 Posted August 13, 2007 Wilson--nice shots. Curious: Did you establish a white balance for the scene before shooting, or did you set these colors in post? I've been getting vulgar, saturated colors, nothing as gentle as you have here. But I haven't been shooting a WhiBal card or setting a manual white balance. Thanks! --HC Quote Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
wlaidlaw Posted August 13, 2007 Share #34 Posted August 13, 2007 Wilson--nice shots. Curious: Did you establish a white balance for the scene before shooting, or did you set these colors in post? I've been getting vulgar, saturated colors, nothing as gentle as you have here. But I haven't been shooting a WhiBal card or setting a manual white balance. Thanks! --HC Howard, I did a manual WB using an expodisc, with the filter fitted. I was using ISO 640, which nearly gives similar exposures with the CV 35/1.2 to normal lighting without the filter, so that I can keep my brain in neutral for thinking about DOF. The only alterations to these in PS is lighting levels, where you can see that the exposure gamut is quite a bit narrower than normal light. I pulled the light and dark sliders up/down to the beginning of significant activity and adjusted the mid range slider for effect. It will be interesting to see how other lenses work out when my 39/52 and 46/52 rings arrive. Focus I have not been being terribly scientific. I have been focusing normally and then just doing a tweak clockwise (nearer) - seems to work just fine. Wilson Quote Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
wlaidlaw Posted August 13, 2007 Share #35 Posted August 13, 2007 Thinking about it, I feel Carl has nicer colour than I have and has virtually lost the pinkish tinge altogther. I did try correction by removing colour cast with the eye-dropper in PS but that always seemed to end up with bluish or greenish cast instead. I am still using PSE4/Mac. Maybe if you used channels in CS3, you could improve on this. Wilson Quote Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jack_Flesher Posted August 13, 2007 Share #36 Posted August 13, 2007 Try swapping the red and blue channels in channel mixer to get blue skies back Also, experiment with your WB on conversion -- what you WB to can make a huge difference in the conversion colors. Quote Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
wlaidlaw Posted August 14, 2007 Share #37 Posted August 14, 2007 Try swapping the red and blue channels in channel mixer to get blue skies back Also, experiment with your WB on conversion -- what you WB to can make a huge difference in the conversion colors. Jack, As I am still PSE4/mac, channel mixer is not an option for me. I think I could do it by making separate layers for red, green and blue and then doing a colour substitution finally recombining but life is a bit short for that. I must get round to getting CS3 but the European rip off price (about the same number in GBP as in USD with 1GBP = 2.03 USD) puts me off. Wilson Quote Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
stunsworth Posted August 14, 2007 Share #38 Posted August 14, 2007 Wilson, there comes a time when you just have to bite the bullet and buy the software. The prices are barmy, especially if you choose the download option from Adobe. I don't think you'll regret it. Quote Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
argomazov Posted August 14, 2007 Share #39 Posted August 14, 2007 Jack, As I am still PSE4/mac, channel mixer is not an option for me. I think I could do it by making separate layers for red, green and blue and then doing a colour substitution finally recombining but life is a bit short for that. I must get round to getting CS3 but the European rip off price (about the same number in GBP as in USD with 1GBP = 2.03 USD) puts me off. Wilson Wilson, I have the same kind of thoughts about the price of CS3 in Europe, so I too decided not to buy it for as long as I can resist. One quick and much less expensive option to properly swap channels on a Mac without buying CS3 is to use GraphicConverter: for this kind of operation, it is really worth it. Attached is an example picture with the red/blue channels swapped by GraphicConverter, after WB setting and curve editing with Lightroom. Sorry about the flare... Cheers, Luca Welcome, dear visitor! As registered member you'd see an image here… Simply register for free here – We are always happy to welcome new members! Quote Link to post Share on other sites Simply register for free here – We are always happy to welcome new members! ' data-webShareUrl='https://www.l-camera-forum.com/topic/30325-infrablack/?do=findComment&comment=329205'>More sharing options...
bayerische Posted August 14, 2007 Share #40 Posted August 14, 2007 Guys, could you help me out? I absolutely adore your IR pics, but I have never taken IR pics on a digital camera, how do I do it on the M8? Will I need a filter, or can it be done in PS? Quote Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
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