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Leica SL2 image thread, please post your images here.

jaapv

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Posted by jaapv,

How to upload images: Prepare the image as follows: 1.   The image should be sRGB and 8-bits 2.   Reduce the size to 2480 pixels on the longest side. (smaller sizes can be set, but are not recommended) 3.   Sharpen properly for screen. 4.   Save as JPG to your desktop, reducing JPG quality to produce 2000 kB (5000 kB for sponsoring members). 5.   In Lightroom these parameters should be set in the Export dialog. 6.   In the Forum posting or editing box, click “choose Fil
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Arrow

Arrow

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11 hours ago, rim_light said:

SL2 with Sigma 14-24 @14mm f/4 (triggered with Fotos App - just for security reasons)

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That is a cool one :)

I may take liberty to comment on some things. Weight distribution should be more towards the balls of the feet (60% - 70 % balls, 40% - 30% heels). A hollow back will counteract proper core stability necessary to build up the shot. Tuck in your hips forward and lower your sternum, so that you get a flat back. Check the pressure point position of your bow hand. Back of bow hand should rather be in a 45 degrees angle. A finger sling might be a good thing, so that the bow can freely jump forward after release. The draw arm elbow better be in line with or behind the arrow in order to achieve proper back tension and shoulder alinement. Your biceps and pectoralis major are contracted making transfer to the back impossible. I recon you use your bow hand index finger as a draw length reference. Without stable posture, proper alinement, force triangle, etc. in place, you will get an unreliable draw lengths indication that will thus be meaningless. Focus on the process! There are many more issues, I can see. Just my two cents ;) 

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75mm Apo SL cron

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HeinzX

HeinzX

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Orchids of my wife ... SL 2 and 24/90 and L macro 60 mm. This macro works very well with the SL 2  - less resolution but a good AF plus stabilizer and a very low weight.

 

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Siran

Siran

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Leica SL2 | VE 24-90mm | Godox AD400 pro

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bags27

bags27

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5 hours ago, Arrow said:

That is a cool one :)

I may take liberty to comment on some things. Weight distribution should be more towards the balls of the feet (60% - 70 % balls, 40% - 30% heels). A hollow back will counteract proper core stability necessary to build up the shot. Tuck in your hips forward and lower your sternum, so that you get a flat back. Check the pressure point position of your bow hand. Back of bow hand should rather be in a 45 degrees angle. A finger sling might be a good thing, so that the bow can freely jump forward after release. The draw arm elbow better be in line with or behind the arrow in order to achieve proper back tension and shoulder alinement. Your biceps and pectoralis major are contracted making transfer to the back impossible. I recon you use your bow hand index finger as a draw length reference. Without stable posture, proper alinement, force triangle, etc. in place, you will get an unreliable draw lengths indication that will thus be meaningless. Focus on the process! There are many more issues, I can see. Just my two cents ;) 

I guess we all now know why you chose your screen name. 😀

One of the many things I love about this forum is how many other areas of expertise so many bring to bear (pardon the pun)

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rim_light

rim_light

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6 hours ago, Arrow said:

That is a cool one :)

I may take liberty to comment on some things. Weight distribution should be more towards the balls of the feet (60% - 70 % balls, 40% - 30% heels). A hollow back will counteract proper core stability necessary to build up the shot. Tuck in your hips forward and lower your sternum, so that you get a flat back. Check the pressure point position of your bow hand. Back of bow hand should rather be in a 45 degrees angle. A finger sling might be a good thing, so that the bow can freely jump forward after release. The draw arm elbow better be in line with or behind the arrow in order to achieve proper back tension and shoulder alinement. Your biceps and pectoralis major are contracted making transfer to the back impossible. I recon you use your bow hand index finger as a draw length reference. Without stable posture, proper alinement, force triangle, etc. in place, you will get an unreliable draw lengths indication that will thus be meaningless. Focus on the process! There are many more issues, I can see. Just my two cents ;) 

what @bags27 says.

And thank you for your comment - I will send the feedback to the archer :)

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snooper

snooper

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Daily sunset walk.. VE 90-280

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ZHNL

ZHNL

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SL2 85mm f1.4D

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SL85d15 by ZHNL, on Flickr

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Tailwagger

Tailwagger

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10 minutes ago, Calebg said:

Great picture how are u liking the 16-35mm lense. Im thinkong about buying one . Wither that or a 35mm prime 

Thanks for the kind words!  By a funny coincidence my SL-35mm arrives tomorrow.  I don't think the two lenses compete with each other, though if you can live with a 35mm f4, you certainly could be happy with the Lumix. I'm one of those folks, delusional as it might be, who believes that lenses have personalities that numbers can't fully are quantify. IMO, the SL-Summicrons draw in a way that no other lenses I own can.  If that's what you're in love with and can live with the limitations imposed by a 35mm prime, buying the SL-35 is the only way to get there.  Which is why I've been waiting for one since I got my SL2 a few months back. I added the 16-35mm to handle all the ultra wide chores and eventually expect to add a 21 or 24mm SL when they arrive someday. As I'm fond of saying the SL glass can make even an average snapshot worth printing and hanging. The Lumix images SooC, OTOH, feel far more clinical to me, not that that quality cant be useful at times. Where the Summicrons feel telepathic, the Lumix seem a little ruthless. 

Now if all that sounds like I'm unhappy with the Pano, I'm not. I wasn't sold initially, but the more I've used it (600 frames so far), the more I've warmed to it. I find it to be exceptionally sharp, at least at the apertures that I typically use it at, between f5.6-8.  I've noted there is a very slight softening in the extreme corners, but I think thats to be expected of a wide zoom in this price range and really only of concern for pixel peepers. It's been quite a while since I've had anything wider than 21mm SEM so I've been giving it a lot of exercise at its widest focal lengths. I can honestly say that I'm quite happy with the results. In real world use I've seen no signs of optical distortion, get things level and the lines are straight.   Add to that the fact that it weighs 500g, whereas the SL-35mm prime weighs half again as much, its a very appealing and useful optic. It should go without saying that the build quality isn't in the same country code as the SL glass, its a tick plasticky, but it is solid and essentially seems well made.  On the negative side, I've noted, especially this time of year here in the NE USA, is that the lens exhibits a significant amount of CA when there are bare branches against sky. That said, it generally can be cleaned up satisfactorily in post. One other knock I've found shooting in early morning low sunlight is that certain angles can cause flare in rather unattractive ways with sun stars winding up looking rather gloppy rather than crisp. 

So in sum, the Pano is well worth owning. It won't give you that Karbe-Leica look and it ain't an APO, but its sharp, light and relatively speaking cheap.  Solid 4 out of 5 stars IMO. You can see a few more examples and opinions from myself and others in this other thread as well.  Best of luck in whatever you decide! 

 

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PeterGA

PeterGA

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Just got mine - I think it will pretty much stay glued on to the SL2 for a while amazing lenses the crons.

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ZHNL

ZHNL

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APO50M

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SL50APO1 by ZHNL, on Flickr

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Alf62

Alf62

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SL2, 35mm, f5.6, 1/60

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snooper

snooper

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Today's sunset @ home...

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rfunnell

rfunnell

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Leica SL2 & APO-Summicron 75

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20200213-L1050486.jpg by Ross Funnell, on Flickr

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ZHNL

ZHNL

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50APOM SL2 IBIS has been really helpful.  

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SL250APOM6 by ZHNL, on Flickr

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ZHNL

ZHNL

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Here is one with sigma 45mm 

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SL245sigma2 by ZHNL, on Flickr

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michali

michali

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Laughing Dove (Spilopelia senegalensis)  -SL2 & Sigma 135mm f1.8 DG L (heavily cropped).

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