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By barcoderI have somehow managed to get a little condensation behind the protective glass for the LCD screen. I've never applied one of these protective screens myself before, but would like to remove it as it's a little annoying. Any suggestions/best practices other than just ignore it? 😉 Thanks!
By JonVdGI have a couple questions for those who have owned or had experience with the T and TL bodies. I realize this has been discussed in other threads, but I’m hoping for a little more insight. Even when auto review is turned off on my T body, the captured image lingers on the screen for a second (the equivalent of "blackout" on other cameras), prohibiting me from immediately composing my next shot. I admit that's not a lot of time, but it can have an impact on my shooting workflow. So my questions are 1) do the TL and TL2 also have this issue, and 2) does using a faster memory card decrease the time it takes for the monitor to become live again? For reference, I'm using a Panasonic SDHC Class 10 UHS-3 card with a 45 MB/s write time, and I'm shooting RAW (DNG) with 1.8 MB jpeg files. The T has no option for shooting DNG only, unfortunately.
By paraskoHi all,
I"m considering buying a Leica TL2 which I want to use to take photos in the same way that I do with my IPhone for street photography. That is, touch screen focus only and most of the time I use burst mode to be able to nail the shot in terms of people moving into the scene.
1. Is the quality of the LCD on the TL2 comparable to a smartphone (I'm using an Iphone 7 plus currently)?
2. Does the TL2 have a 'continuous shooting' option or only single shot? I couldn't find this in the specs.
3. Can you program the camera to choose the focus point and take the shot simultaneously by a single tap on the screen? Or do you have to tap on screen to choose focus point and then press shutter button?
4. Is the AF fast enough for street photography?
5. I would be buying this camera with the new pancake 18mm lens. Would I be able to get maximum depth of field with this combo, as with a smartphone? That is, I want everything to be completely and equally in focus from foreground to background. I do not want shallow depth of field.
I have looked at other cameras (Sony, Fuji etc) but the larger LCD screen is the main attraction with this camera so that it is similar to an iphone experience but better image quality.
Any help appreciated.
Thanks in advance.
By menos I M6I just made a firmware upgrade on my less than 1y old and barely used M246 (I completely lost the mojo on the MM after having had to swap my MM to the inferior M246).
Granted I use the LCD very, very little if at all (changing ISO, formatting SD cards and correcting the internal clock are pretty much the only times when I use the LCD).
So I never noticed any issue with the LCD - I just never use it enough.
When I started the firmware update procedure (firmware file on SD card, switching the camera on while holding the "info" button), I noticed a green colored surrounding on the LCD screen very similar in pattern to the often reported M8 LCD "coffee stain" issues.
The "rectangle shifting image" while the firmware updated made this very obvious and I could not see this issue on the youtube videos you can find showing the firmware upgrade process.
Well, my camera is a German model and I will not be able to show and ask about this until the next trip to Europe - any experience with broken M246 LCD screens is very welcome.
And btw - the exposure compensation nonsense in the viewfinder is still there after the firmware update?
Lets see if the camera at least can keep the time in sync better than an hour glass operated by a drunk sailor after the FW update (maybe the LCD is worn out by all that time setting to correct for the miserable time keeping)?
By ericborgstromThis happened to me twice the other day. I switched on the SL with the Vario-Elmarit. No picture could be seen on the screen but there was the virtual horizon moving and the information around the screen including aperture and time, if accurate i do not know.
For Sweden it was a nice warm day, 23°C. The camera had been lying in the boot of my ACed car. Switching of, removing the battery did not help until eventually. In a while the fault was repeated. Now the LS seems to be working fine again.
This failure I think was due to heated sensor.
Have you who use the LS in warmer surroundings had this problem?