By BjarniMI’ve got some dust on my sensor, and I’ve already tried with the VSGO Sensor Cleaning Swab (dry), but there are still some spots on the sensor.
I’ve read somewhere that it’s possible to apply cleaning fluid - alcohol? - on the swabs to get rid of tougher spots on the M10-sensor.
I’m living in the Faroe Islands some 1,300 kilometers from the european continent. Therefore I can’t just go to the local photo dealer or Leica store - because there isn’t any near.
I have to order ‘something’ from some dealer in Europe and get it sent to me - hence my doubt and questions about best practice M10-sensor cleaning.
- Could I apply ’some kind’ of fluid to the swabs to clean the sensor?
- What is your best practice tip how to clean the sensor?
Really hoping for some constructive answers on this thread since I’m 1,300 kilometers from help and have to fix this myself. And also order the required cleaning items on the web.
Thanks in advance.
By Think!I am looking for an off camera flash solution for my M10 (which would possibly also work for my M240)
Is there any chance that my Nikon Flashes or Fuji Flashes (Nissin) would work? Otherwise I am looking for a good solution with a controller that may also manage more than one flash lights. Is there a Godox Solution that fits? Thank you for your advice
By camalogicaHi everybody,
I’m a computer science engineer who has been working, as a hobby, the last three years in a new, more precise, way of recreating film look with digital cameras.
I’m posting here for feedback, in case anybody of you would like to test the application (with the M9) and show the results and your opinions.
I usually shoot film photography but also I like the comfort of digital. The problem is that I’ve never been happy with existing film emulations. Mainly because of that, because they are emulations instead of simulations.
For doing so, instead of doing a generic conversion for every camera, I’ve done a specialised conversion for the Leica M9 based on simulating the chemical process and spectrum response, instead of applying curves and other stuff.
In the end, I thought, if analog and digital are just two instruments which capture light, I thought, maybe is there any mathematical conversion to make the digital to look like film?
I mean, if I take the same photo with analog and digital, under exact same conditions (light / aperture / exposition /…) could I make them look exactly the same?
It’s based on chemical simulation and the Leica M9’s response to spectrum. Then LUTs and finally some extra calibration. I think that it could be improved because I’ve used home made or open source tools for calibrating and so on, which are far from perfect.
EXAMPLES (Analog vs Converted Digital)
Following are some examples of Superia 200 and TriX 400.
Click in each photo to see high resolution.
DNGs shoots taken with Leica M9 (left), and FILM shoots taken with Minolta CLE (right) at same conditions (aperture / exposition / ISO).
All shoots taken with Zeiss Biogon T* ZM 35mm f/2.
The examples show several photos, which are the following:
| original DNG | |
| converted DNG | scanned FILM |
| developed DNG | developed FILM |
For the generated simulated negative TIFF file and the scanned TIFF file I’ve applied exactly the same develop parameters.
TriX 400 - 1
TriX 400 - 2
TriX 400 - 3
Superia 200 - 1
Superia 200 - 2
Superia 200 - 3
Superia 200 - 4
Superia 200 - 5
Superia 200 - 6
Tonal range - Biggest difference between digital and film
Dynamic range - Digital is faaar more detailed in the blacks, film never gets burnt, meanwhile digital gets burn quite fast.
Film has more microcontrast, it's more sharpen
Digital is a little bit more contrast after developing, I imagine it’s because it reach white level faster, then, when doing autolevels with the developing program, as a result, it’s a more contrast image.
I'm having a console application ready, if interest is shown it will be ready quite soon!
CAVEHEATS / LIMITATIONS
The program only accept DNG, because I need all the light captured by the camera, instead of a JPG already converted and really dependent on camera self made adjustments.
The program only accepts photos taken at the ISO of the certain film that is gonna be used. For example, for TriX400 it will accept only Leica M9 DNGs at 400 ISO. I’ve also done tests with ISO 200 and 800, and the results were quite satisfactory but, for complexity reasons, I prefer to let it be native film ISO for the moment.
Highlights are not always correct, and sometimes they look weird, mainly in color film. This is due to bayer sensor pattern and its different intensity response (for Red, Green and Blue channels).
FUTURE (& PAST) WORK
Super thanks to the creator of LibRaw, a wonderful C++ library for working with RAW files.
Any questions I’m open to answer 🙂
Best regards everybody.
Tomás AKA “Camalogica”
By kuzco9xI just firgure out that my Leica M10, the DNG files opened and exported to JPG by photoshop are always brighter and less contrast than the original JPG generated by M10 body.
Is there something wrong?
This is the jpg exported from dng.
Hello guest! Please register or sign in to view the hidden content. Hallo Gast! Du willst die Bilder sehen? Einfach registrieren oder anmelden! And this is original jpg by body
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