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RobM

Which Leica III to get?

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Odd. I put it down for half an hour, picked it up, and the film advance dial moved...So I pressed the shutter release...then tried to advance the film, but it was stuck again. Grr. 

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If the lens can be removed, can you see the shutter moving when triggering? How about on long exposures perhaps 1/15 or 1/4 second. Is there a gap? We all want to find a solution for you.

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Return it. Don’t get others involved in looking at it, just follow eBay procedures.

Buy your next one from a reliable dealer, ideally in person so that you can check it over first.

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9 minutes ago, pico said:

If the lens can be removed, can you see the shutter moving when triggering? How about on long exposures perhaps 1/15 or 1/4 second. Is there a gap? We all want to find a solution for you.

 

I turned the R-A lever back and forth, as suggested earlier, and after about fifteen times managed to get the film advance to move. So, I removed the lens, set a slow speed, and saw the curtain opening.

But now it's stuck again.

 

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4 minutes ago, earleygallery said:

Return it. Don’t get others involved in looking at it, just follow eBay procedures.

Buy your next one from a reliable dealer, ideally in person so that you can check it over first.

 

I'm beginning to think that is a possibility. 

On the other hand, I was expecting to take the camera for a CLA anyway, which would surely solve the problem...

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I already had a Leica for repair. She also did not let herself be triggered. When I disassembled, I found that there were a few pieces of film in it ...

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The problem is: a lot of salers think (and say) the camera works if it does anything.
But most of the time, after many years in the showcase, the box, the loft or wherever, it has to become a service.

Your IIIg is very nice. She deserves it! ;)

 

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Yes, that's my feeling. It's in good condition otherwise, and this is surely a simple mechanical problem. My feeling is that I would like to keep it, and get it CLA'd. I really enjoyed shooting with it, and fairly quickly got the two-stage rangefinder/viewfinder technique going, which I had been worried about beforehand. 

So, I've written to the seller saying I'm getting it serviced, and if the problem is not me (and I'm now of a mind that it isn't) them I'll be looking for a partial refund. I'll see what he says.

Thanks for everybody's help and advice!

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Too bad that we could not solve the problem.
If there are problems with the Seller you will surely be able to recommend a good mechanic in your area.

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You seem to have eliminated all the obvious problems.

I cannot emphasise enough though how important it is to check that the film rewind is ROTATING when you load a LTM Leica - you can think that the film is loaded fine BUT the film can ride on sprocket drive between the sprocket holes in the film. The camera will fire and appear to be working fine BUT the film isn't advancing as there is nothing pulling it through the camera.

You seem to have another problem and if you didn't give an OTT amount for the 111G then KEEP IT and get it CLA'd.

The 111G is a very nice LTM but it's going to be around 60yrs old and so a CLA would be prudent anyway and is money very well spent with any purchase.

I bought a dog of a 111F knowing that it was "all over the place" but after a CLA it's a superb camera that is both the quietist and smoothest Leica that I own - same with my 1936 111A a total dog when I bought it but a CLA brought it back to working as new.

To be honest when buying any old Leica then a CLA has to be factored in to the price. The thing is that these old cameras only really get out of adjustment/gummed up etc but don't actually WEAR out and so can easily be brought back into as new operation.

PS: Nothing wrong with EBAY - just do your research and know what you are buying.

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PS: The LTM's can be awkward to load. It's not always straight forwards and needs a bit of practice - some are easy and some are more difficult.

My 111A loads fine every time BUT my 111F can be a pain in picking up the film.

I always look to see that the camera sprockets are engaging with the film sprocket holes (you can of course only see the bottom ones) I use the light from my phone to really get it right. Sometimes on the 111F I slightly pull out the take up spool by a mm or so just to get the holes to engage.

No doubt the film loading issue was one of the reasons for Leitz to make the M with the opening back.

Other than this slight film loading issue though the LTM's are just lovely cameras to use and deliver superb results.

 

 

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One of my all time photographic heroes David Douglas Duncan photographed the Korean War with a couple of LTM's with Nikkor lenses and changing film under battle conditions must have been really hard.

For those not familiar with DDD's work check out the book "This is War" all photographed on Leica LTM's. I believe he used a pair of 111C's with mainly a Nikkor 50mm and one chapter with a Nikkor 135mm. The 50mm was on one camera and the 135mm on the other.

Another GREAT LTM photographers other than the famous ones like Eisenstadt and HCB etc was the lesser know English photographer and explorer WILFRED THEISIGER - a life long Leica shooter,  he documented "Persia" and the Marsh Arabs from the 1930's to the 1950's initially with a  Leica 11 from 1934 until 1959  when he bought a Leicaflex. He used the standard 50mm for the vast majority of his photographs  (he doesn't state which but I would think most likely an Elmar of possibly a Summar) - he later bought a 90mm Elmar and 35mm Elmar.

His book "Visions of a Nomad" is well worth a look. 

Edited by paulmac

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32 minutes ago, paulmac said:

the lesser know English photographer and explorer WILFRED THEISIGER

Thanks for reminding me about "Wilfred of Arabia's" photographs, Paul, which are wonderful and I enjoyed looking at them again.

He was also known by his (Arab) nickname "Mubarak bin London".

Pete.

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55 minutes ago, paulmac said:

You seem to have eliminated all the obvious problems.

I cannot emphasise enough though how important it is to check that the film rewind is ROTATING when you load a LTM Leica - you can think that the film is loaded fine BUT the film can ride on sprocket drive between the sprocket holes in the film. The camera will fire and appear to be working fine BUT the film isn't advancing as there is nothing pulling it through the camera.

You seem to have another problem and if you didn't give an OTT amount for the 111G then KEEP IT and get it CLA'd.

The 111G is a very nice LTM but it's going to be around 60yrs old and so a CLA would be prudent anyway and is money very well spent with any purchase.

I bought a dog of a 111F knowing that it was "all over the place" but after a CLA it's a superb camera that is both the quietist and smoothest Leica that I own - same with my 1936 111A a total dog when I bought it but a CLA brought it back to working as new.

To be honest when buying any old Leica then a CLA has to be factored in to the price. The thing is that these old cameras only really get out of adjustment/gummed up etc but don't actually WEAR out and so can easily be brought back into as new operation.

PS: Nothing wrong with EBAY - just do your research and know what you are buying.

I agree. I had problems with film wind on with my IIIg which required a fix. I prefer other LTM models to the g, but I still have wind on problems with my other LTM cameras (I have every type made, apart from the d) from time to time. It is essential to check whether film is winding on before closing the camera. Afterwards the arrow on the rewind knob is a re-assurance that wind on is happening. These issues are not unique to Leicas and can affect other cameras such as the Reid, the 'better built' British Leica which is well made but not always 'better working'. A CLA should always be factored in, particularly if you are going to use an old camera a lot.

William

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Cheers, guys. I'll take it for a CLA on Thursday or Friday, and they'll keep it for a week. When ready for uplift, I'll ask for a quick tutorial on film loading. 

Again, thanks for all the comments.

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With any film camera you should always take up the slack in the spool using the rewind knob as you load the camera and then check that the knob is turning as you wind on.

as for the original question, a nice black pre-war 111 looks better than any of the later post-war 111c to 111g models, in my opinion.

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