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Hello,

I'm keen to make some prints today on fibre based paper which I've never used before. All the instructions I've found for washing involve Ilford Washaid or Hypo clearing agent. I don't yet have either of these solutions. I gather the washing time needs to be longer without them. How long should i wash for? The other thing is that I don't have a good tray and hose type arrangement for washing. I'll be using a bucket under a tap to wash as I've been using for RC paper. So, i don't know if this will affect the timing of the wash.

Any advice will be greatly appreciated!

All the best,

Edited by Xícara de Café
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Ilford says 30-45 minutes in running water. I would do at least 1 hr. I would also interleaf the sheets frequently and empty your bucket 6-8 times in the hour. And do not wash any sheets you do not want to save – throw away test strips etc. You want as few sheets as possible in your wash process.

And look for something like a Kodak tray siphon (cheap on EBAY), and get some wash aid. A bucket is nowhere close to advisable.

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2 hours ago, Michael Hiles said:

and get some wash aid.

Thanks Michael. I'd have to import washaid, etc. and it gets expensive with import duties of 100% on the goods and shipping. I've read of people using 1 teaspoon of Sodium sulphite per litre of water. This would be a very cheap option. Anything wrong with doing this?

Edited by Xícara de Café
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55 minutes ago, Xícara de Café said:

I've read of people using 1 teaspoon of Sodium sulphite per litre of water.

Four (4) teaspoons sodium sulfite per liter works well with fiber based paper.

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Wash aids use Ammonium Sulfite. Sodium sulphite is likely fine also. The main idea is to have a sulphite that will replace the "stickier" Sodium Hyposulfite (i.e "Hypo" - fixer) in the prints, via ion-exchange, with something more water-soluble that can then be washed away faster.

Discovered by the US Navy during WW2 - with limited fresh water for on-board darkrooms, they used sea-water for washing prints, and found that it removed the fixer faster.

Hyposulphite solution (like all salt solutions) is denser than pure water (Dead Sea effect) - it tends to sink to the bottom of the washing tray/tub/device. Thus the usefulness of a siphon (or just drain holes punched in the bottom of the tub) - the contaminated water is the first to be sucked away down the drain.

There is a solution sold for testing if any hyposulfite remains in a print. A drop in a white border of the print (or a test-processed bit of blank photo-paper) will turn yellow-brown in the presence of hyposulphite. Probably not easier to acquire than washing aid - but the formula is Silver Nitrate 0.01mg per cubic meter of water + Acetic Acid at 10PPM.

https://www.freestylephoto.biz/static/pdf/msds/formulary/Formulary_-_Risidual_Hypo_Test_Kit_-_MSDS.pdf

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  • 2 weeks later...

The cheapest and always available wash-aid is a 1% Soda solution (Sodiumcarbonate). However the disadvantage is that it softens the emulsion so you have to take care only use it for an intermediate 1-2 minutes after washing out further. It is an old Agfa recommendation on fiber papers.

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