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I am posting my first message on this forum because I have a question/issue concerning my brand new Leica Q2 I bought last week. I used the camera just once shooting in RAW, auto white balance and all the other default factory settings.
Everything is fine and perfect under normal light conditions. However when I am inside and I underexpose a photo (with low ISO settings- 400 ISO more or less) purple colors appear in the shadows. If I open the RAW file on my computer and in lightroom, these purple shadows remain. I tried to change the white balance on the camera etc. but it does not change anything.
It is really weird as the conditions are not extreme, the photo is slightly underexposed and the settings used are totally normal.
You can find at this link 2 photo samples : you can see purple on the desk and furniture on the photo L1000288. On the photo L1000282 you can see purple on the grey wall
Does anyone have an idea ?
Thanks a lot for your help
Just got my M10 and have been somewhat disappointed by the colors. In some circumstances, they’re absolutely great. In others (and shooting situations which I frequently shoot - backlit subjects who have lighter skin tones), they fall apart when I do any serious color grading. I’ve attached a link for reference. Notice the majority of influence over the skin tones is determined by the purple slider. In my experience on professional Canon systems (as well as Fuji), skin tones are generally captured in the Oranges, Reds, and Yellows. On occasion, I’ve noticed them “bleeding” into the Purples/Magentas, but generally it’s an easy correction with a hue adjustment toward red in Lightroom. This has happened more on my Fuji gear than my Canon, which I thought was just a product of the XTRANS.
Images for reference. Note: I’ve increased each slider to 100 to illustrate the influence of the respective slider, not as an artistic decision. https://imgur.com/gallery/mFTvTGz
I’ve had to do more “additive” color editing (color grading with added oranges/yellows in the mid tones) to get even close to the effect I desire to be consistent with my professional body of work, but it’s tedious and feels more like a workaround as opposed to simply a different process.
Is this a hallmark of these sensors? Has anyone else had an issue with skin tones merging into the purples? The issue here is that it doesn’t give me precise and consistent control over tonalities which are consistent with my other work. Not only that, but as opposed to adjusting a couple of sliders to produce the look, I’m adjusting literally three times more to try and get close and, eventually compromise, on the desired look.
Also, here is an attached photo with the exposure info as well as histogram illustrating that I’m shooting at base ISO, and exposed with the limitations of the M10 sensor in mind.
I want to add that I’ve been shooting for over a decade. This certainly isn’t my first rodeo. The only thing left for me to try is making my own custom color profile, but in over a decade of shooting, this has never been a requisite to get the colors I want out of my photos.
Does the M10-R improve on any of these shortcomings?
Also, I want to preempt against any comments telling me I’m just confused or apologetics from Leica koolaid mixers. I’ve read some responses on this forum before from some of them and they seem to be obstinately opposed to the notion that perhaps the sensors in these cameras aren’t as good. While DXOMark gives the M10 a higher overall score than my 6D, in my experience, the colors are more pliable. Finally, my artistic discretion is going to differ from yours. I have seen a lot of photos posted here in discussion which are also effectively SOOC, with minimal correction. I have a stylized look I go for, which requires flexible colors.
I'm looking to 'play around' with some macro photography. Nothing serious at this stage so don't want to spend much. I have a Novoflex R-SL adaptor which I use with a 50mm Summicron R I have and it works fine. Has anyone any thoughts on both the Elmarit-R f2.8 60mm and the Elmar-R f4 100mm, both of which seem to be reasonably priced on eBay. Any pitfalls to look out for and most importantly, will that work with the SL using manual and Focus Peaking?