SanDiegoLife Posted July 8, 2019 Share #1 Posted July 8, 2019 (edited) Advertisement (gone after registration) Hello, I am a new M10-P owner and new to Leica. I am experiencing an intermittent problem with my newly purchased M10-P (last month from a major retailer). My camera’s firmware is 2.6.5.1 (latest). PROBLEM: The problem is that I am trying to use Auto ISO, but the camera selects the ISO of whatever the Maximum Auto ISO has been set to. Sometimes I set the Maximum Auto ISO to 1600 and the ISO for all my photos get stuck at 1600. Other times I set the Maximum Auto ISO to 20,000 and the ISO is stuck at 20,000 for all my photos, resulting in completely blown out photos. EXPECTED BEHAVIOR: I expect that when I select Auto ISO on the ISO wheel, the ISO will drop to whatever ISO is necessary for a properly exposed image, given my manually selected aperture and shutter speed. It should not always be stuck at whatever the Maximum Auto ISO has been set to in the Menu. OTHER SYMPTOMS: I have noticed that when the problem is happening, in the viewfinder the red arrow (pointing to the left) indicates an overexposed shot. I know it should be a little red dot in the bottom center indicating proper exposure. I actually do not understand why I would routinely see an overexposure warning when Auto ISO is selected and the Maximum Auto ISO is set to a high number like 20,000. CONDITIONS WHEN PROBLEM OCCURS: These are the relevant settings on my camera: ISO setting wheel: “A” (firmly set and pushed down) Shutter speed setting wheel (any setting other than “A”) Exp. Compensation: Off ISO Setup: M-ISO is “ISO Auto” ISO Setup: Maximum Auto ISO: have experienced it at 1600 and 20,000 (maybe others?) Lens: 50mm APO Summicron M Lens aperture: doesn't seem to matter CONDITIONS WHEN PROBLEM DOES NOT OCCUR: I have noticed that the problem doesn’t seem to ever appear under one of these conditions: Live View shooting is turned on Shutter speed setting wheel set to “A” ISO setting wheel set to M and Menu’s ISO Setup set to an M-ISO of “ISO Auto” SOLUTIONS ATTEMPTED: Resetting camera Changing ISO wheel to a fixed number and then back to “A” Wiping clean the round photodiode sensor on front of camera The problem is intermittent as sometimes the expected behavior occurs and the ISO drops down for a proper exposure. I notice that when the problem is not happening and I am composing a shot in the viewfinder, the small red dot in the center bottom appears indicating correct exposure. In this situation, the ISO is reasonable and the resulting photos appear properly exposed. I can’t seem to reliably predict when the problem occurs. Attached are two images that were taken when the problem was occuring. The first properly exposed image was taken with Live View turned on (f/5.6, 1/250, ISO 640). Live View was then turned off, which resulted in a totally blown out photo (f/5.6, 1/250, ISO 20,000). Not sure if I’m doing something wrong to cause this strange ISO behavior? Thanks very much in advance. Welcome, dear visitor! As registered member you'd see an image here… Simply register for free here – We are always happy to welcome new members! Edited July 8, 2019 by SanDiegoLife Quote Link to post Share on other sites Simply register for free here – We are always happy to welcome new members! ' data-webShareUrl='https://www.l-camera-forum.com/topic/299054-leica-m10-p-exposure-problem-iso-gets-stuck-when-a-iso-selected-on-wheel/?do=findComment&comment=3773716'>More sharing options...
Advertisement Posted July 8, 2019 Posted July 8, 2019 Hi SanDiegoLife, Take a look here Leica M10-P Exposure Problem - ISO gets stuck when A-ISO selected on wheel. I'm sure you'll find what you were looking for!
a.noctilux Posted July 8, 2019 Share #2 Posted July 8, 2019 Hello, and welcome, I gave up "auto ISO" years ago after using it a while. So you can try. Changing manually with M10 from ISO 100 to 6400 is so easy, why bother with AI ? Letting up the ISO wheel then adapting the value to next photo can be done without hustle ... Quote Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
helohe Posted July 8, 2019 Share #3 Posted July 8, 2019 I guess you have a faulty ISO wheel. I would bring it back to your retailer and demand a replacement. Otherwise it would needed to be sent to leica and take quite some time. 1 Quote Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
farnz Posted July 8, 2019 Share #4 Posted July 8, 2019 You might like to try changing your Exposure Metering Mode to see whether that makes a difference. Unless I'm using LiveView I always use Centre-weighted because the camera doesn't need to open the shutter to take a meter reading. I don't use AutoISO (just the wheel and M set to ISO 1,000 after dark) so I can't really help. Since you're using a 50/2 APO-Summicron asph it will be 6-bit coded and the camera will recognise the lens and correctly set the Maximum Exposure time if you've set the camera to 1/[2f] or 1/[4f]. The only other thing I could suggest is that the ISO sensor might be obscured and the camera thinks it's much darker than it really is and therefore ramps up the ISO to the maximum that you've set in the menu. The sensor is the little spot above and to the left of the Cyclops screw on the front. It would be easy enough for an errant finger to sit in front of it and block light from entering. Pete. Quote Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
lucerne Posted July 9, 2019 Share #5 Posted July 9, 2019 (edited) Note to Sandiegolife. The M setting on the ISO wheel is a convenience to enable you to quickly switch to a fixed - single ISO VALUE that you have preset in the ISO section of the menu. It overrides the lower and higher values in auto iso system. I use it to quickly switch the camera to an extreme fixed value outside my normal working range. If you select M on the ISO dial, ISO will be that preselected value and will not vary under any conditions.. Aperture is still under your control and shutter speed can be set to your preferred value or AUTO. The M position on the ISO dial has no other purpose. The other issues you have described may represent a fault, but could simply be that you are using the camera outside it’s light sensitivity range. Over exposure is very likely with 20000 ISO and f2. Set your aperture to f8 and your shutter to 125th to see if you are getting control. Make sure also that you have no exposure compensation preset in the menu. It’s easily overlooked. Usually this problem is experienced while familiarising with the M10. Ive used the M10 for over a year and find exposure options to be very reliable. I use Auto ISO regularly. Edited July 9, 2019 by lucerne Quote Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
adan Posted July 9, 2019 Share #6 Posted July 9, 2019 1) There have been reports of the ISO knob getting stuck (electronically, not mechanically) on one ISO. No matter where you set it, you get ISO 800 (or something). Not many, but enough to show it can happen. 2) But as lucerne alludes to, if one mistakenly goes to the "M" instead of "A" ISO setting, (they are right beside each other) - that will give you whatever ISO is set in the Menu - and that will not change automatically for you. Other than those, the Auto-ISO always has a floor of ISO 200 - ISO 100 is a "pull" that risks blown highlights, so it was removed from the Auto-ISO choices with the first firmware upgrade. Therefore, if setting the shutter speed and aperture manually, you do have to be sure you are choosing reasonable settings for the amount of light present. I.E. Auto ISO will not save a picture if you try to use f/2.0 and a shutter speed of 1/4000 in bright daylight (which would require an ISO of 64, which is outside the available range). Quote Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
mujk Posted July 17, 2019 Share #7 Posted July 17, 2019 Advertisement (gone after registration) On 7/8/2019 at 6:09 AM, SanDiegoLife said: Attached are two images that were taken when the problem was occuring. The first properly exposed image was taken with Live View turned on (f/5.6, 1/250, ISO 640). Live View was then turned off, which resulted in a totally blown out photo (f/5.6, 1/250, ISO 20,000). If you didn't touch the ISO wheel or any ISO-related setting in the menu between these two images, you may have a faulty light meter sensor. In non-Live View mode metering happens off the gray area of the closed shutter with a dedicated sensor. In Live View metering is done based on image sensor data. 1 Quote Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
SanDiegoLife Posted July 17, 2019 Author Share #8 Posted July 17, 2019 5 hours ago, mujk said: If you didn't touch the ISO wheel or any ISO-related setting in the menu between these two images, you may have a faulty light meter sensor. In non-Live View mode metering happens off the gray area of the closed shutter with a dedicated sensor. In Live View metering is done based on image sensor data. Yes. That's exactly what the Leica service technician stated. He said it sounded like there was a loose connection to the light meter somewhere. Because it was a new item, he instructed me to return it to the dealer for an exchange. I had purchased it from Adorama. Adorama sent me a return label and processed the replacement camera in 2 days. BTW, mujk, thank you reading the entirety of my post and commenting directly on the sample photos and the camera settings used to take those photos. Yours and helohe's comments were the most relevant. Quote Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
M11 for me Posted July 19, 2019 Share #9 Posted July 19, 2019 (edited) Try again. The A setting is very convenient in many cases and it has absolutely to work. Actually it does work perfectly well. On mine anyway. Sorry I just see now in your last post that your problem is actually solved. I am happy for you. Edited July 19, 2019 by M10 for me Quote Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
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