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jmahto

Rodinal Newbie

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There have been comments on other threads that the modern "Rodinal" R9 replacements by other companies do not keep as long as AGFA version. I've been using the ADOX version in plastic bottles, and it does seem to turn darker and faster than I remember.

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On 6/20/2019 at 12:11 AM, jmahto said:

Do you use it only for slow film or fast as well? I am yet to try it with TMax100.

My usage has been with ISO 100 and ISO 400 films.  Mainly Acros 100 , Tri-X and HP5+.

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42 minutes ago, Keith (M) said:

My usage has been with ISO 100 and ISO 400 films.  Mainly Acros 100 , Tri-X and HP5+.

I tried it with TMax100 and Tri-X and found Tri-X too grainy for my taste. I am comparing with DD-X that I used for whole year. Probably I will stick to DD-X for Tri-X and switch to Rodinal for TMax100. 

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6 hours ago, jmahto said:

I tried it with TMax100 and Tri-X and found Tri-X too grainy for my taste. I am comparing with DD-X that I used for whole year. Probably I will stick to DD-X for Tri-X and switch to Rodinal for TMax100. 

I thought the whole point to Rodinal was its nice tight grain texture, especially on Tri-X, which is where I have used it.  It doesn't sound right for T-Max.

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1 hour ago, scott kirkpatrick said:

I thought the whole point to Rodinal was its nice tight grain texture, especially on Tri-X, which is where I have used it.  It doesn't sound right for T-Max.

T-Max isn't right for anything.
 

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17 hours ago, scott kirkpatrick said:

I thought the whole point to Rodinal was its nice tight grain texture, especially on Tri-X, which is where I have used it.  It doesn't sound right for T-Max.

Could be personal preference. I am still experimenting. Also I hear that there is a difference in scanning (as I do) vs dark room printing (never done). 

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5 hours ago, jmahto said:

Could be personal preference. I am still experimenting. Also I hear that there is a difference in scanning (as I do) vs dark room printing (never done). 

I've only done wet printing  with Rodinal and Tri-X, and I liked the texture that it gives for city pictures with lots of concrete.  But I can't get either these days in the one local store that carries analog film supplies for art students.

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11 minutes ago, scott kirkpatrick said:

I've only done wet printing  with Rodinal and Tri-X, and I liked the texture that it gives for city pictures with lots of concrete.  But I can't get either these days in the one local store that carries analog film supplies for art students.

That sucks. What does the store offer?

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Posted (edited)
8 hours ago, pico said:

That sucks. What does the store offer?

Right.  on my last visit, HP5+ and T-Max developer...

Edited by scott kirkpatrick

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Posted (edited)
2 hours ago, scott kirkpatrick said:

Right.  on my last visit, HP5+ and T-Max developer...

Hahah, funny. If you sell anything analog then this combination is the least sought for I guess.

I only get my chemicals, papers and film through webshops, this is already since 10 years the only way to get what you want. 

Edited by otto.f

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Posted (edited)

In order to graduate from newbie status, finally I did stand development (or semi stand) in Rodinal. Most came out ok, however now I know what "uneven" development means.

I don't think I will do stand development again. If I want such creative effect then I will have more control in Photoshop  :D

Leica IIIc/f, 50Elmar 3.5, Kodak Tri-X. Rodinal (1+100), 20c, 60 minutes (4 inversions in 30 min).

Edited by jmahto

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Posted (edited)

Yes, stick to giving it a couple of tank inversions every minute, timed by whatever the developer or film leaflet says.

I think that stand development should not be used with a very dilute developer as the developer will become exhausted where there are a lot of exposed silver grains to develop? Someone will correct me if I am wrong.

the only time I used stand development was about 40 years ago when I tried using Diafine which you were supposed to be able to leave overnight to develop to completion. Can’t remember what the results were now but I think the idea was to push the film as far as it could go.

Edited by Pyrogallol

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3 hours ago, Pyrogallol said:

I think that stand development should not be used with a very dilute developer as the developer will become exhausted where there are a lot of exposed silver grains to develop? Someone will correct me if I am wrong.

Well, that is partly the idea - it is a "compensating development" technique that helps control negative contrast by giving the shadows full development while the highlights get less as the developer exhausts there first.

See also: "split developers" such as Diafine, or water-bath developing (Ansel Adams' "go-to" technique with extreme-contrast subjects).

However, with a subject that is already low-contrast, as in jmahto's foggy-birds above, it can be too much of a good thing.

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