Jump to content

Rodinal Newbie


jmahto

Recommended Posts

Advertisement (gone after registration)

Well, after using DD-X for one year I felt the urge to try something different. Since I had heard about Rodinal so much, I gave it a try.

Rodinal (1:25), 7min @20C Tri-X 400

I think I survived! :)

Welcome, dear visitor! As registered member you'd see an image here…

Simply register for free here – We are always happy to welcome new members!

  • Thanks 1
Link to post
Share on other sites

I guess I am pleased. Next, I have to try it on TMax100.

BTW, camera and lens: Leica IIIc/f and 5cm Elmar 3.5

Welcome, dear visitor! As registered member you'd see an image here…

Simply register for free here – We are always happy to welcome new members!

Edited by jmahto
  • Like 3
  • Thanks 1
Link to post
Share on other sites

Amongst its other attractions is that Rodinal is extremely resistant to oxidisation - very important for me as there can many months between developing sessions.  Therefore it is the only developer I have used for some years now for both 35mm & MF, generally at 1:50, sometimes 1:25 and occasionally 1:100 (stand dev).  A very reliable and flexible developer!

  • Like 2
  • Thanks 1
Link to post
Share on other sites

5 hours ago, Keith (M) said:

Amongst its other attractions is that Rodinal is extremely resistant to oxidisation - very important for me as there can many months between developing sessions.  Therefore it is the only developer I have used for some years now for both 35mm & MF, generally at 1:50, sometimes 1:25 and occasionally 1:100 (stand dev).  A very reliable and flexible developer!

Agree, I have been using Rodinal for several years and it lasts to the last dregs in the bottle, FP4 for 8 minutes at 1:25

  • Like 1
Link to post
Share on other sites

6 hours ago, Keith (M) said:

Amongst its other attractions is that Rodinal is extremely resistant to oxidisation - very important for me as there can many months between developing sessions.  Therefore it is the only developer I have used for some years now for both 35mm & MF, generally at 1:50, sometimes 1:25 and occasionally 1:100 (stand dev).  A very reliable and flexible developer!

I decant Rodinal from its big bottle to little (2 oz) brown glass bottles that have an expressed cap that displaces fluid and atmosphere. Rodinal lasts forever in them for one-shot use I will try to find an online source.

Edited by pico
Link to post
Share on other sites

Advertisement (gone after registration)

9 hours ago, Keith (M) said:

Amongst its other attractions is that Rodinal is extremely resistant to oxidisation - very important for me as there can many months between developing sessions.  Therefore it is the only developer I have used for some years now for both 35mm & MF, generally at 1:50, sometimes 1:25 and occasionally 1:100 (stand dev).  A very reliable and flexible developer!

Do you use it only for slow film or fast as well? I am yet to try it with TMax100.

Link to post
Share on other sites

3 hours ago, Pyrogallol said:

Agree, I have been using Rodinal for several years and it lasts to the last dregs in the bottle, FP4 for 8 minutes at 1:25

I checked the Massive chart and it says 9min for FP4 at 1:25. Does 8min gives better result (to you) or one can have +/- one minute without much change in output?

Link to post
Share on other sites

6 hours ago, jmahto said:

I checked the Massive chart and it says 9min for FP4 at 1:25. Does 8min gives better result (to you) or one can have +/- one minute without much change in output?

I do 8 minutes for FP4 and 9 for Delta 100, but I tend to have the developer closer to 70 degrees F (21c) rather than 68.

i keep meaning to increase the time a bit to compensate for older uncoated lenses, but then don’t.

the Rodinal bottle label says 8 minutes and the Ilford film label says 9.

it just depends on what you like your negatives to look like, what the lighting conditions were and how “contrasty” the lens is.

  • Like 1
Link to post
Share on other sites

Am 19.6.2019 um 21:40 schrieb pico:

(…) Rodinal lasts forever (…).

Indeed. This is my bottle of Rodinal from the 1920s or 1930s and it just works fine. I own another bottle from the 1960s and it also works fine.

Welcome, dear visitor! As registered member you'd see an image here…

Simply register for free here – We are always happy to welcome new members!

  • Like 2
  • Thanks 1
Link to post
Share on other sites

8 hours ago, vanGeist said:

Indeed. This is my bottle of Rodinal from the 1920s or 1930s and it just works fine. I own another bottle from the 1960s and it also works fine.

Welcome, dear visitor! As registered member you'd see an image here…

Simply register for free here – We are always happy to welcome new members!

Amazing. 

My Rodinal came in plastic bottle. Should I transfer to a glass bottle?

Link to post
Share on other sites

On 6/20/2019 at 8:24 AM, Pyrogallol said:

I do 8 minutes for FP4 and 9 for Delta 100, but I tend to have the developer closer to 70 degrees F (21c) rather than 68.

i keep meaning to increase the time a bit to compensate for older uncoated lenses, but then don’t.

the Rodinal bottle label says 8 minutes and the Ilford film label says 9.

it just depends on what you like your negatives to look like, what the lighting conditions were and how “contrasty” the lens is.

In the old days Ilford papers were a bit softer than Agfa papers. And still, when I see with my Heiland Splitgrade that for a given negative I land at Grade 3 with Ilford MG, it will give 2.8 for Adox MCC

Edited by otto.f
Link to post
Share on other sites

1 hour ago, otto.f said:

In the old days Ilford papers were a bit softer than Agfa papers. And still, when I see with my Heiland Splitgrade that for a given negative I land at Grade 3 with Ilford MG, it will give 2.8 for Adox MCC

I used to like Agfa grade 6 for hard gritty prints.

Link to post
Share on other sites

16 minutes ago, vanGeist said:

My Rodinal for developing is out of the early 90s and is stored in plastic bottles since then. It also works just fine.

I presume the plastic bottles are original packaging which is good. I just wish to add that most plastics do not block atmospheric conditions - most allow oxygen to pass and therefore are not for darkroom chemical storage.

A possibly irrelevant aside - years ago I set up a distiller to collect its output into a plastic so-called water tank of 10 gallons. It eventually filled and I shut off the distiller and sealed the tank. Career matters kept me from paying attention and two years later when I revisited it was empty, evaporated.

 

Edited by pico
  • Thanks 1
Link to post
Share on other sites

I developed TMax100 in Rodinal at 1:25 (5:30min at 21c) and 1:50 (12min at 20c) dilution. My test is not scientific but In the scans, I am not able to see any difference in the output (grain or contrast).

Why one will use 1:25 dilution when it is twice the cost and no benefit? 

Link to post
Share on other sites

Join the conversation

You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.
Note: Your post will require moderator approval before it will be visible.

Guest
Reply to this topic...

×   Pasted as rich text.   Paste as plain text instead

  Only 75 emoji are allowed.

×   Your link has been automatically embedded.   Display as a link instead

×   Your previous content has been restored.   Clear editor

×   You cannot paste images directly. Upload or insert images from URL.

×
×
  • Create New...