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S1/S1R settings and tips


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Given the complexity of the S1/S1R - at least in Leica-land - could those with some experience shortly present their favorite settings, and possibly enlight us about tips, etc.? I am thinking about 'all' aspects - like focus settings for different shooting situations, programming of buttons/short-cuts, focus stacking, using of manual lenses, ibis when and not, LENR or not, etc. etc. etc... Detailed discussions take place on separate threads, as now, but summaries could go here as a quick guide for less experiencend users. 

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Quite some tips here - given by the two blue-shirt gents...: https://www.youtube.com/user/PanasonicLumixVideo/videos

Ex:

Use of adapters and setting the correct focal length for image stabilisation: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Yb0Chroc7hM

Use of various af settings: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Y4g4bECZOnI

Edited by helged
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On the SL, I use highlight clipping all the time; this enables quick exposure adjustment to avoid undesirable clipping. On the S1R, I only see clipping info when in Auto review or Playback mode. Is this correct? If so, the eye needs to move down to the exposure bar in the lower part of the viewfinder to check exposure, and by that removing the eye from the subject of interest. Seems suboptimal for me. Or better - I have overlooked something...

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6 hours ago, helged said:

On the SL, I use highlight clipping all the time; this enables quick exposure adjustment to avoid undesirable clipping. On the S1R, I only see clipping info when in Auto review or Playback mode. Is this correct? If so, the eye needs to move down to the exposure bar in the lower part of the viewfinder to check exposure, and by that removing the eye from the subject of interest. Seems suboptimal for me. Or better - I have overlooked something...

The nearest equivalent is switching on 'Zebra Pattern' in settings:monitor:display3

Two choices plus you can set the sensitivity ...... I keep mine on Zebra2 and 105% which seems to work fine. 

This produces a very broad rolling hatching in the areas which are overexposed. 

There is also 'highlight weighted' metering mode that meters for the highlights. This actually works very well. 

Edited by thighslapper
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vor 20 Stunden schrieb helged:

Given the complexity of the S1/S1R - at least in Leica-land - could those with some experience shortly present their favorite settings, and possibly enlight us about tips, etc.? I am thinking about 'all' aspects - like focus settings for different shooting situations, programming of buttons/short-cuts, focus stacking, using of manual lenses, ibis when and not, LENR or not, etc. etc. etc... Detailed discussions take place on separate threads, as now, but summaries could go here as a quick guide for less experiencend users. 

Good idea because I never read nor intend ever to read the manual. Hopefully, the S1 will be an ephemeral phenomenon for me. 😁

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3 hours ago, thighslapper said:

The nearest equivalent is switching on 'Zebra Pattern' in settings:monitor:display3

Two choices plus you can set the sensitivity ...... I keep mine on Zebra2 and 105% which seems to work fine. 

This produces a very broad rolling hatching in the areas which are overexposed. 

There is also 'highlight weighted' metering mode that meters for the highlights. This actually works very well. 

What about the Blinking Highlight function?

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Just now, helged said:

Only available in Auto review or  Playback mode, as far as I can tell. 

I believe that it can be set in the custom menu, and will check my S1r later on and get back.

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24 minutes ago, helged said:

Only available in Auto review or  Playback mode, as far as I can tell. 

You are correct, I thought that I had seen the blinkies but it was in review mode. That really is something that Panasonic should address, although having it in review mode does allow for a repeat shot, assuming your subject is stationary.  Perhaps it could be addressed with a future firmware update.

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Regarding continuous AF: What is the preferred setting for e.g. people walking/running/cycling towards you? I see that @Chaemono for the bike-photo 

used "Tracking, AFC, and Set 2" (two posts down from the above link). Since fps is essentially the same (=5 fps) in "high-speed burst" and "medium-speed burst" when using AFC (manual p. 127), I would guess that high-speed burst" and "medium-speed burst" shouldn't influence the tracking performance. 

Yes, I have the S1R and I have been playing a little with various AF-settings, but it would be good to learn about the findings from the early adopters. 

Thanks! :rolleyes:

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If you don't have any Panasonic lenses set IBIS to 'body' and leave it on permanently.

Despite what the manual and others say, the Panasonic Rep I talked to said leave it on, even using a tripod, as it reduces micro-vibrations. 

Both OIS and IBIS only really need to activate with a shutter press, so leave it set to 'Half Press'. No idea what the advantage of 'always on' is to be honest. 

I think the main power hogs are driving the EVF and LCD, so settings that shut these down quickly and put the camera to sleep have more consumption benefits. 

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2 hours ago, thighslapper said:

If you don't have any Panasonic lenses set IBIS to 'body' and leave it on permanently.

Despite what the manual and others say, the Panasonic Rep I talked to said leave it on, even using a tripod, as it reduces micro-vibrations. 

Both OIS and IBIS only really need to activate with a shutter press, so leave it set to 'Half Press'. No idea what the advantage of 'always on' is to be honest. 

I think the main power hogs are driving the EVF and LCD, so settings that shut these down quickly and put the camera to sleep have more consumption benefits. 

Thanks very much. I do have 70-200 f4 S Pro Lumix lens. Not sure whether I can assign Image Stabilisation (that part of the menu which lets me select Auto/IBIS/Lens) to a Fn button. Else, will save to Custom function C3 with Auto for use with Lumix lenses, and keep IBIS as default for L and M lenses. 

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1 hour ago, su25 said:

Thanks very much. I do have 70-200 f4 S Pro Lumix lens. Not sure whether I can assign Image Stabilisation (that part of the menu which lets me select Auto/IBIS/Lens) to a Fn button. Else, will save to Custom function C3 with Auto for use with Lumix lenses, and keep IBIS as default for L and M lenses. 

Combined OIS/IBIS only adds half a stop which I suspect in normal usage will be unnoticed, so there is really no advantage to any other setting apart from IBIS alone, which is why I suggested 'set and forget'.... :). As there appears to be minimal,  if not zero, penalty to having it active all the time I would save your custom buttons for something more useful. 

Edited by thighslapper
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Thought this may be good to know, while attempting handheld shots in High Res mode:

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19 hours ago, thighslapper said:

If you don't have any Panasonic lenses set IBIS to 'body' and leave it on permanently.

Despite what the manual and others say, the Panasonic Rep I talked to said leave it on, even using a tripod, as it reduces micro-vibrations. 

Both OIS and IBIS only really need to activate with a shutter press, so leave it set to 'Half Press'. No idea what the advantage of 'always on' is to be honest. 

I think the main power hogs are driving the EVF and LCD, so settings that shut these down quickly and put the camera to sleep have more consumption benefits. 

The only caveat I have for this is that when I was making videos on the tripod with the stabilization on, I saw slight visual anomalies, like the picture slightly warping or shifting. Of course, it is still moving around even if it is stable. I would like to do my own testing before I decide whether I believe the panasonic reps that stabilization being on while a tripod does not affect still images, because it does affect videos....

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5 hours ago, su25 said:

Thought this may be good to know, while attempting handheld shots in High Res mode:

I tried this and it did not go well at all even with normal shutter speeds in bright daylight. I think the camera needs to be absolutely still for it to work. The shutter speed might be high, but the lag time to take all the shots is upwards of 2 seconds, during which time the camera has to be pointing at the exact same scene....if there is any movement at all it creates severe ghosting.

 

Edited by Stuart Richardson
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2 hours ago, Stuart Richardson said:

I tried this and it did not go well at all even with normal shutter speeds in bright daylight. I think the camera needs to be absolutely still for it to work. The shutter speed might be high, but the lag time to take all the shots is upwards of 2 seconds, during which time the camera has to be pointing at the exact same scene....if there is any movement at all it creates severe ghosting.

 

I thought it may be suitable for long exposure shots landscape shots .. but then the manual says that High Res is available for shutter speeds between 1s and 1/16000s and uses ONLY electronic shutter with min aperture of f16. Anyhow, shall try and see the results for exposures of 1s.

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