iShutterbug Posted April 27, 2019 Share #1 Posted April 27, 2019 Advertisement (gone after registration) Hello, Everybody, I'm the new owner of a CL with 35mm Summilux. I am disturbed by green fringing around chrome in bright sunlight. See top of windshield and vents on dash. I am unable to get rid of it in Photoshop or Adobe Camera Raw. Is this normal for this lens? How do you get rid of it in post processing, what program do you use? Thanks, Don Welcome, dear visitor! As registered member you'd see an image here… Simply register for free here – We are always happy to welcome new members! 1 Quote Link to post Share on other sites Simply register for free here – We are always happy to welcome new members! ' data-webShareUrl='https://www.l-camera-forum.com/topic/296640-green-fringing/?do=findComment&comment=3730007'>More sharing options...
Advertisement Posted April 27, 2019 Posted April 27, 2019 Hi iShutterbug, Take a look here Green fringing. I'm sure you'll find what you were looking for!
albert Posted April 27, 2019 Share #2 Posted April 27, 2019 24 minutes ago, iShutterbug said: Hello, Everybody, I'm the new owner of a CL with 35mm Summilux. I am disturbed by green fringing around chrome in bright sunlight. See top of windshield and vents on dash. I am unable to get rid of it in Photoshop or Adobe Camera Raw. Is this normal for this lens? How do you get rid of it in post processing, what program do you use? Thanks, Don Welcome, dear visitor! As registered member you'd see an image here… Simply register for free here – We are always happy to welcome new members! I use the same elements. Never noticed before......Ill go back and check. Nice shot. Quote Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dippy Posted April 27, 2019 Share #3 Posted April 27, 2019 (edited) 4 hours ago, iShutterbug said: Hello, Everybody, I'm the new owner of a CL with 35mm Summilux. I am disturbed by green fringing around chrome in bright sunlight. See top of windshield and vents on dash. I am unable to get rid of it in Photoshop or Adobe Camera Raw. Is this normal for this lens? How do you get rid of it in post processing, what program do you use? Thanks, Don Welcome, dear visitor! As registered member you'd see an image here… Simply register for free here – We are always happy to welcome new members! Welcome. Wide lens, big aperture, bright sun. I’d call that as chromatic abberation, you should find a slider to deal with that for that in either programme. Edited April 27, 2019 by Dippy Quote Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
LocalHero1953 Posted April 27, 2019 Share #4 Posted April 27, 2019 The image looks oversharpened to me, but this could be a result of compression to post here. I don't have the lens so can't otherwise comment. Is there a green filter on the windshield? Some cars have them. Quote Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
jaapv Posted April 27, 2019 Share #5 Posted April 27, 2019 That looks like simple chromatic aberration.- Although reflection on the chrome is also possible, as noted above. It can be seen on many lenses and has been discussed in this forum on a regular basis. If it is CA nearly all postprocessing programs have a tool to eliminate it. Lightroom: Welcome, dear visitor! As registered member you'd see an image here… Simply register for free here – We are always happy to welcome new members! 1 Quote Link to post Share on other sites Simply register for free here – We are always happy to welcome new members! ' data-webShareUrl='https://www.l-camera-forum.com/topic/296640-green-fringing/?do=findComment&comment=3730054'>More sharing options...
iShutterbug Posted April 27, 2019 Author Share #6 Posted April 27, 2019 (edited) Thank you all for your help and advice. She left me for a guy with a ff Sony and no chromatic aberration. Just joking. The shot in question was shot at ISO 100, f/1.4, 1/1250sec, DNG, no post processing, resized in PS (1000px longest side jpg) to upload here. I was able to remove some of the green fringing but not all and that bothers me. Frankly the lens does not show me enough to have to put up with that. I have an RMA to send the lens back this weekend for refund. I have the 18mm, 23mm and 60mm and will sorely miss the 35mm format. I shot Leica film cameras up until ten years ago when I sold everything and went digital. For serious stuff I shoot D850 w Otus 85 and all the rest of it. I'm afraid the Summilux has to go and frankly now I regret getting the CL system. I call it the "dumb camera" the way it's designed with the wheels and errant focus spot and all and crop sensor. Should've waited for the Q2-P. Edited April 27, 2019 by iShutterbug added sentence 1 Quote Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
jaapv Posted April 27, 2019 Share #7 Posted April 27, 2019 Advertisement (gone after registration) There are plenty of 35 mm M lenses. My personal favorite is the Summicron-C 40. I find I don’t feel any need for TL primes on the CL. 1 Quote Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
justbananas Posted April 27, 2019 Share #8 Posted April 27, 2019 (edited) 1 hour ago, iShutterbug said: Thank you all for your help and advice. She left me for a guy with a ff Sony and no chromatic aberration. Just joking. The shot in question was shot at ISO 100, f/1.4, 1/1250sec, DNG, no post processing, resized in PS (1000px longest side jpg) to upload here. I was able to remove some of the green fringing but not all and that bothers me. Frankly the lens does not show me enough to have to put up with that. I have an RMA to send the lens back this weekend for refund. I have the 18mm, 23mm and 60mm and will sorely miss the 35mm format. I shot Leica film cameras up until ten years ago when I sold everything and went digital. For serious stuff I shoot D850 w Otus 85 and all the rest of it. I'm afraid the Summilux has to go and frankly now I regret getting the CL system. I call it the "dumb camera" the way it's designed with the wheels and errant focus spot and all and crop sensor. Should've waited for the Q2-P. Ok so auto iso didn’t bite you, and I wouldn’t have expected it to in such bright light. I set iso myself always. I find it all but impossible to take a dng and get a good result without a color profile. Even adobe stock profiles in Lightroom are better than a straight dng. Straight dng is just too bland. Dont give up the cL, or the 35mm.. you’re simply not using it to it’s best advantage. It’s a spectacular lens and a great little camera, but you have a little work to do to maximize them both. Trust me, a Q2 will not magically solve your issue, you’ll find identical results plus the addition of distorted faces from that 28mm lens. The wheels are quite smart once you spend some more time with them. Also, I did some wheel swapping to get them the way I work with my fingers. I’ll link you a Flickr album with my cL shots, and I think you’ll scratch your head a little. If if I were to move to any other Leica, it would be an m10. and bright sun is always a bear. Edited April 27, 2019 by justbananas Quote Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
justbananas Posted April 27, 2019 Share #9 Posted April 27, 2019 https://www.flickr.com/gp/shootbetterstories/73P107 another note, just not every picture turns out. I shoot up to 300 photos a day, and some are simply rejects. Weird stuff happens. The more “auto”, the more often. Quote Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
justbananas Posted April 27, 2019 Share #10 Posted April 27, 2019 (edited) I know someone with a q, and he comments often how unhappy he is. He shoots wide open, auto iso, auto everything, straight jpg only, with little to zero processing. He showed me a photo with some major color shift, he was disgruntled... a quick look revealed iso 52000!! No wonder! And I blame that process for the lackluster results. On the cL, I never ever ever go above 6400 iso, and that’s an extreme. 100, 200 or 800... I try to stick to one of those three. Flip back a page or two in the image forum, all my recent photos are with that 35tl Edited April 27, 2019 by justbananas 1 Quote Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gobert Posted April 27, 2019 Share #11 Posted April 27, 2019 1 hour ago, iShutterbug said: Thank you all for your help and advice. She left me for a guy with a ff Sony and no chromatic aberration. Do you think she will leave you for a guy with a 911? If affirmative, I will send you the address. 1 Quote Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
justbananas Posted April 27, 2019 Share #12 Posted April 27, 2019 1 minute ago, Gobert said: Do you think she will leave you for a guy with a 911? If affirmative, I will send you the address. 😂 Quote Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
lct Posted April 27, 2019 Share #13 Posted April 27, 2019 Nice pic indeed but shooting chromes at f/1.4 in direct sunlight is not the best idea to avoid CA. My Summilux-M 50/1.4 asph or 35/1.4 FLE would not do better on any camera i suspect. Quote Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
iShutterbug Posted April 27, 2019 Author Share #14 Posted April 27, 2019 Thank you (again), guys. Cooler and more experienced heads have prevailed. I do have the RMA and box and shipping label, etc., right over there, but I really don't want to part with it. I've had a (original) Summarit, a Summaron and a Summicron but never a Summilux--and one with AF! One thing the CL does is focus! What justbananas said about the Q and what lct said about shooting chrome at f/1.4 in direct sunlight swayed me. I shot a Leica since I was thirteen (my dad's camera) had one with me ever since up until ten years ago. My film Leicas were all screwmount and there were the calibration and focus problems and then my eyesight became a problem. To stay in the Leica family I will keep the 35 Summilux-TL and learn to adapt--no, learn to use it. And, Gobert, if I ever see her again I'll ask her. Quote Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jake Posted April 27, 2019 Share #15 Posted April 27, 2019 Wait. What? Isn't that just your subjective opinion? That's not green, it's the blue tint of the film in the windshield. I'm surprised this thread didn't turn into a discussion of color theory and how it's so totally subjective. Even cultures have different interpretations. . . /shrug Quote Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
stustustu Posted April 28, 2019 Share #16 Posted April 28, 2019 (edited) Good call on giving the 35 another chance, it is a great lens. I've also experienced the same when shooting an image that contains shiny/reflective items in full sunlight at 1.4 - fringing around the overexposed highlights. Maybe try adding an ND filter in situations like this with this lens if you want to shoot fully open & need to limit the DoF. Otherwise stop it down a bit to limit the side-effect. Edited April 28, 2019 by stustustu Quote Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
justbananas Posted April 28, 2019 Share #17 Posted April 28, 2019 I hit a car show today... the photos came out amazing. Will finish processing tomorrow night and upload a few Quote Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
iShutterbug Posted April 28, 2019 Author Share #18 Posted April 28, 2019 (edited) stustustu, ND filter--of course! Give it the 'ol Noctilux treatment! 😎 Thanks! Edited April 28, 2019 by iShutterbug added the Noctilux reference 1 Quote Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
bherman01545 Posted April 29, 2019 Share #19 Posted April 29, 2019 Would that be CA or simply a reflection off the glass or chrome? If the latter, wouldn't a Circular Polarizer help? Nobody seems to use these handy filters anymore. I know that I use them occasionally for both film and digital and they are always on my bag Quote Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
iShutterbug Posted April 29, 2019 Author Share #20 Posted April 29, 2019 Thank you, bherman01545. That's a good idea to try, too. I will look around in my filter collection. Quote Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
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