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thighslapper

S1R & S1 + Leica Lens Image Thread

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I hope that PhaseOne will bring an update for C1 soon.
I am very interested how the M Lenses will work on that camera…

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Posted (edited)
10 hours ago, jdlaing said:

No unboxing video?

I'm not that cheap  :wacko:

...... anyway now I can convert to DNG ( https://feedback.photoshop.com/photoshop_family/topics/dng-converter-11-2-1-beta-released-for-interim-new-camera-support ) and process in LR :

this morning ....

 

 

 

Edited by thighslapper

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Posted (edited)

Thank you for these. If they forwent the noise advantage of BSI sensors at higher ISO for better DR of their ‘waveguide’ whatever approach, that’s a good trade off, IMO. Would like to see more. 

Edited by Chaemono

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vor 2 Stunden schrieb thighslapper:

I'm not that cheap  :wacko:

...... anyway now I can convert to DNG ( https://feedback.photoshop.com/photoshop_family/topics/dng-converter-11-2-1-beta-released-for-interim-new-camera-support ) and process in LR :

this morning ....

 

 

 

Impressive! What lens did you use? Handheld?

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The DNG's of the above are here if you want to try them in LR. I've included a second tree shot ..... the above is at f16 to get a starburst and is diffraction affected, the second I've included is at f7. These are just quick snapshots walking the dog this morning. 

https://www.dropbox.com/sh/1h4m2liexwmy9i5/AAChASGId81PNQo0r5E6pABsa?dl=0

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Posted (edited)

Thank you. I can open them in C1 too. Nice sharpness and DR.
And you are blessed with mild climate. Here in northern Germany the flowers still sleeping in the underground…
Enjoy the new camera!
P.S. in C1 the CA-Correction and Lensprofile works well.
I am curious if there will be an improvement when C1 can read the native S1R Raws without DNG conversion…

Edited by verwackelt

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Posted (edited)
2 hours ago, thighslapper said:

The DNG's of the above are here if you want to try them in LR. I've included a second tree shot ..... the above is at f16 to get a starburst and is diffraction affected, the second I've included is at f7. These are just quick snapshots walking the dog this morning. 

https://www.dropbox.com/sh/1h4m2liexwmy9i5/AAChASGId81PNQo0r5E6pABsa?dl=0

Thanks. The files look ok (Leica-like). I assume the SL 16-35 was used, but I cannot find the lens info in the metadata (my fault ?).
I can find many details (exposure, f-number, iso, date, etc.). But the focal length is 36 (for the house), so probably the SL 24-90. But I cannot find the "name" or identification of the lens used. 

Maybe my tool does not show all details ? But I wonder how can the specific correction functions be triggered without lens info (I find only focal length, aperture and max. aperture.)

Edited by caissa

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Posted (edited)
vor 6 Minuten schrieb caissa:

Thanks. The files look ok (Leica-like). I assume the SL 16-35 was used, but I cannot find the lens info in the metadata (my fault ?).

#4 (i have downloaded it too) 24-90

Edited by BlackDoc

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Posted (edited)

The usual metadata is there ... it appears in LR as normal ..... toggling 'I' on the image cycles though the info (if you have it set to do it in Develop View Options)

I have added in the same folder:

A Hi Res image and the original for comparison (16mm on 16-35)

21/3.4 images at various apertures so you can check peripheral performance (much as I originally thought)

Apo 50/2 images at various apertures so you can check peripheral performance (seems fine despite my previous misgivings)

Theres a 3 shot combined LR HDR .... which looks ok once the settings are dialled down a bit. 

Some more info:

The Hi-Res mode seems to work up to a 1 second exposure limit ...... which makes its usefulness somewhat limited. 

LENR ..... I have compared 50sec and 2 minute exposures with it on and off ....... there are a very few hot pixels in the very dark shadows that are visible with shadow recovery set at 50 .... and a veritable multicoloured snowstorm at 100 ..... but only really noticeable at 100%. I've included the 50 second pair so you can compare. 

There is some strange functionality with the exposure system I can't seem to understand. With a 3stop ND filter you have to dial in 3 stops overexposure on the metering to get a correct image. As the metering is done from the sensor this makes no sense to me. :unsure:

With the SL and even a 10 stop filter you can still view the image easily and use AF ..... on this camera even a 3 stop ND renders the screen almost black and AF barely works. Either there is a setting somewhere I am missing or there is something very odd going on. I will quiz the Panasonic folk tomorrow. 

same link as before .... https://www.dropbox.com/sh/1h4m2liexwmy9i5/AAChASGId81PNQo0r5E6pABsa?dl=0

Edited by thighslapper

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4 minutes ago, thighslapper said:

With the SL and even a 10 stop filter you can still view the image easily and use AF ..... on this camera even a 3 stop ND renders the screen almost black an AF barely works. Either there is a setting somewhere I am missing or there is something very odd going on. I will quiz the Panasonic folk tomorrow. 

This is an important point for those into astrophotography: Using SL and focus magnification, It's quite easy to see and focus on the brightest stars, ensuring proper focus. Using live view on Nikon D5, as an example, is much harder; the quality of the image on the screen is so bad/blurry that focus is difficult. On other bodies, you can essentially forget to focus, so you have to pre-set the lenses you use. Hopefully there is a fix to avoid S1R turning (almost) dark with 3-stop ND filter...

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Posted (edited)

I took thighslapper's Hi Res image and upsized it to 294 MPx. 😁 The PSD file that ON1 creates to roundtrip to LR is 4.7 GB. I thought my Mac Book was going to die. A JPEG export results in 96 MB. 😁 Then I cropped. 😁

 

Norm Res - crop from 47 MPx

 

Hi Res - crop from 187 MPx 😁

Hi Res - crop from upsized 294 MPx 😂

Edited by Chaemono

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15 minutes ago, Chaemono said:

I took thighslapper's Hi Res image and upsized it to 294 MPx. 😁 The PSD file that ON1 creates to roundtrip to LR is 4.7 GB. I thought my Mac Book was going to die. A JPEG export results in 96 MB. 😁 Then I cropped. 😁

...

Hi Res - crop from upsized 294 MPx 😂

 

Thanks. Based on the jpgs - the up-sized image appears sightly more detailed compared to the Hi-Res image, whereas the latter is a little more pleasant to look at for my eyes (in the meaning a little less digital than the up-sized image).

An open question, for curiosity: Hi-Res takes 8 images, with the sensor (slightly) shifted, generating a biggie file with improved detail. What about taking 8 identical images, loading these into PS as smart objects, and then taking (e.g.) the mean of these; Layer -> Smart Objects -> Stack Mode -> Mean? This would certainly improve the signal-to-noise ratio that, in isolation, should lead to improved rendering of details. Would this method also give an end result comparable with the Hi-Res and up-sized images shown above?

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 I don´t think so. As i understand, the HiRes Mode is a little bit like making a pano with a technical camera where you can move the Sensor or like a Normal camera with a shiftlens and the lens is mounted on the tripod but the camera is shifted. 
If you shoot 8 identical images you will not win resolution because all sensorpixel are exposed the same at each shot.
May be you can reduce noise by stacking 8 identical shots with additional software i do not know if PS is able to do so...

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I've messed about a bit with Olympus multi-shot hi-res.  In the vision and image science literature, this is called super-resolution.  Imagine that you can displace the sensor by one pixel spacing in the x (horizontal) and then y (vertical) directions, then go back a step in x and finally back a step in y, taking a picture each time.  Then in each pixel position you now have two G, one R and one B pixels' worth of data.  It's as if you were just shifting the Bayer filter, leaving the pixels where they started. That's how Hasselblad has done this for some time.  Now there is no loss of resolution due to the de-mosaicing of the Bayer filters.  For the next four shots of eight total, first displace the sensor by half a pixel spacing in both the x and y directions, and repeat the four step process.  This gives four more pixels' worth of data overlapping the previous four, as if you had pixels with a spacing 1/(sqrt(2)) of the original spacing, but they are "smeared" pixels that overlap each other.  Finally some signal processing tricks (usually something that would be patented, since there are lots of ways to do this) assigns all the information to the larger pseudo-array of smaller virtual pixels  that make up the hi-res JPEG output.  It sounds like a lot of work, but fast algorithms exist for making JPEGs out of Bayer data, and these tricks just use them in a different way.

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