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Leica M10D + 21mm/F3.4 images


luoyiigsnrr

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I have been reading the rangefinder focusing posts these two days. " Leica M Digital Rangefinder Camera - Leica M Type 240 (Leica M10) " by Thorsten Overgaard is crtically appreciated. The Leica M cameras, are especially  precise instruments among the rangfinders that need skills to operate, and sufficient practice is the way of mastering these skills, as I understand from his article.

Set aperture and focus point, wait for someone to enter the focus point and shot. This is just one of those tips I learned from web. It works. However, I learned from the practice that the wide lens as 21mm is not good for street shot when you want to fill the frame with the human characters. It is too wide and thus the composition is too loose. Does anyone have any comments on using the 21mm wide lens for street photography?

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The girls passed by and turned their heads away when they found I am taking photos.

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I have not got any single one photo of "tack sharp" using this combo up to now. This focus was set on the pole near the building. F5.6, 1/350, iso200. I set the camera iso-M 100 and max exposing time 1/125, and auto iso. However, the results are always iso 200. Q: (1) why not tack sharp? (2) why always iso 200 rather than 100 when it is bright?

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A friend, using his MM with a 50mm coke mounted and M10-P with a M Lux 50 mounted, suugests me to use a 28mm instead of this 21mm for street shot. ^_^. I would not change, I will keep going with it..., I said. The guy in picture is my PhD student assissting my teaching the "Ecohydrology", an interesting subject.

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Maybe your friend has a 28mm, that he could lend you :)  ? 

Or the store where you bought the expensive body could lend you a 28mm - just for testing over the week-end.

I think you can expect tack-sharp photos. Did you try a photo of a big building directly in front of you (not diagonally) with the lens set to infinity?

Are your photos taken with the 35mm and the M10-D tack-sharp?

Edited by tri
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On 3/11/2019 at 6:28 AM, luoyiigsnrr said:

I have not got any single one photo of "tack sharp" using this combo up to now. This focus was set on the pole near the building. F5.6, 1/350, iso200. I set the camera iso-M 100 and max exposing time 1/125, and auto iso. However, the results are always iso 200. Q: (1) why not tack sharp? (2) why always iso 200 rather than 100 when it is bright?

Hi.

i think you are not using the ISO settings correctly.   The M setting on the ISO dial is a fixed value which is based on a setting in the ISO settings in the menu.  Only put the dial to M if you want the ISO to be a fixed value that you preselect  in the menu. It’s for quick setting.  

So...set the ISO dial to (A) auto or choose a value (not M).  I use auto.  The camera chooses the best value up to the limit that you have set in the menu.  I set my maximum ISO TO 6400.

you can’t set auto ISO and M.  It’s one or the other. 

 

I think you you need to understand that RAW images are unsharpened.   Are you using Lightroom?   You can add sharpness easily.

Edited by lucerne
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1 hour ago, tri said:

Maybe your friend has a 28mm, that he could lend you :)  ? 

I am afraid he won't😀

1 hour ago, tri said:

Or the store where you bought the expensive body could lend you a 28mm - just for testing over the week-end.

Possibly if the store is generous enough? 😀

1 hour ago, tri said:

I think you can expect tack-sharp photos. Did you try a photo of a big building directly in front of you (not diagonally) with the lens set to infinity?

I will have a try.

1 hour ago, tri said:

Are your photos taken with the 35mm and the M10-D tack-sharp?

I have a summicron 35 ASPH which is mounted on the CL. I am unwilling to unmount and mount the lenses being afraid of making the sensors dirty😀

Thanks for your comments. Appreciated.

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41 minutes ago, lucerne said:

Hi.

i think you are not using the ISO settings correctly.   The M setting on the ISO dial is a fixed value which is based on a setting in the ISO settings in the menu.  Only put the dial to M if you want the ISO to be a fixed value that you preselect  in the menu. It’s for quick setting.  

So...set the ISO dial to (A) auto or choose a value (not M).  I use auto.  The camera chooses the best value up to the limit that you have set in the menu.  I set my maximum ISO TO 6400.

you can’t set auto ISO and M.  It’s one or the other. 

I will check my M10-D settings.

41 minutes ago, lucerne said:

I think you you need to understand that RAW images are unsharpened.   Are you using Lightroom?   You can add sharpness easily.

Yes, I am using Lightroom. Is the 'clarity' the 'sharpness' in it? I seldom use it. I  sincerely believe in the sharpness of the Leica lenses and thus think that the results from the RAW must be sharp too. Otherwise, how will they differenciate from other lenses? 😀

 

Thanks for your comments, I will try accordingly. 😀

It is not easy for a new users of Leicas. Too many new things to learn😀

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7 hours ago, lucerne said:

Hi.

i think you are not using the ISO settings correctly.   The M setting on the ISO dial is a fixed value which is based on a setting in the ISO settings in the menu.  Only put the dial to M if you want the ISO to be a fixed value that you preselect  in the menu. It’s for quick setting.  

So...set the ISO dial to (A) auto or choose a value (not M).  I use auto.  The camera chooses the best value up to the limit that you have set in the menu.  I set my maximum ISO TO 6400.

you can’t set auto ISO and M.  It’s one or the other. 

 

I think you you need to understand that RAW images are unsharpened.   Are you using Lightroom?   You can add sharpness easily.

Hi lucerne,

This is my camera menu settings. Outside, the iso tab is set at "A".

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vor 9 Stunden schrieb luoyiigsnrr:

Are you joking?😀

Why did he write this? Because you might buy for your third lens (28mm) a third body, but then ether your student carries all your cameras and hands the right one to you (maybe you have friends playing golf), or... 

Serious: the Leica store in your home town might offer work-shops. Everybody here left a lens cap on when shooting with a film-M at least once, so take it easy

and book a work-shop offline = person to person with a working pro.

Edited by tri
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Waist level shot.

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