experience: dry cleaning and the safest way to clean the residue after wet cleaning

[Einst_Stein]

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I feel the most comfortable tool to clean the camera sensor is the motorized brush. After a little spinning, the static electric charged brush can suck the dust off the sensor. Since the brush only lightly touches the sensor, it should be harmless.

I have used the gel stick to pick up a rare stubborn stuffs. But somehow it left a visible mark on the sensor. I wonder if it was the sticky material from the paper that was used to remove the dust on the gel. 

The most annoying is the water or the residue after the wet cleaning. It simply won't go way. I suspect he problem is that the wet cleaning material only takes the nasty stuff off the surface of the sensor and get back again after the cleanser evaporated. I should use a dry paper of something to suck it away by stamping on the sensor without wipe it, but I don't have adequate fiberless paper. I thought about putting the fine Kleenex paper on the gel stick but dare not to try it.

The safest way I use now is sending the camera to Leica Service around me if I need wet cleaning. (Leica SF charges $50 for M and SL. Don't know TL/CL.)            

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[jdlaing]

Try the brand Visible Dust.

[Einst_Stein]

Tried many brands. Not much difference. 

By the way, I was advised by a camera store to avoid using the blower. To the least, it blows away the dusts but leaves them in the camera cavity. The dust should be removed off the camera. 

Edited February 3, 2019 by Einst_Stein

[250swb]

16 hours ago, Einst_Stein said:

Tried many brands. Not much difference. 

 

It isn't necessarily the brand that makes the difference but the product and what it was designed for. Many people order a fluid that will get rid of contaminants such as oil thinking it will be good for all situations. But such fluids are not for everyday cleaning as most leave a stain or film on the sensor, so yes they remove oil but you do need a general cleaning fluid to remove the stain. The 'simple' fluids are based on isopropyl  alcohol (IPA) and you could try finishing wet cleaning off with this as there are no other components in it.

The other thing to mention is if you have enough time to consider blotting the remaining fluid off the sensor with a tissue before it evaporates, then you are using FAR TOO MUCH fluid! It should be used so sparingly that it has evaporated by the time the swab has been lifted from the sensor. This may be the fundamental problem and the cause of the stain.

Edited February 4, 2019 by 250swb

[LocalHero1953]

I also found that gel sticks can leave a residue, and the water-based wet fluid swabs leave streaks, however little fluid I use.

I now use a sequence of blower, Arctic Butterfly brush (like yours) and swabs with IPA (isopropyl alcohol), which remove any oily or sticky residue.

As 250swb says, if you are thinking about blotting off any liquid residue, then you're probably using too much.

This advice about not blowing dust into the innards of the camera is just one of the things excessively techie and nerdy people (like me from time to time) get hung up about. You can always find a reason for not doing something. OTOH a blower removes loose dust without any risk of grinding it across your sensor surface with a brush or swab. Take your pick among the various nightmare scenarios that leave you in a cold sweat.

[silverchrome]

Try Pec Pads if you want a wipe that doesn't scratch but, as 250swb says, you're probably using way too much fluid if residue is left on the sensor after a wet clean.

I use Eclipse fluid with Pec Pads to clean my sensors and this method has never failed me.  2 drops are sufficient, and even then you should give the fluid 15 seconds or so to distribute itself around the swab and evaporate.  

I got streaks once:  it was my first attempt at wet cleaning and I put 4 drops on the swab.

[Einst_Stein]

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8 hours ago, 250swb said:

It isn't necessarily the brand that makes the difference but the product and what it was designed for. Many people order a fluid that will get rid of contaminants such as oil thinking it will be good for all situations. But such fluids are not for everyday cleaning as most leave a stain or film on the sensor, so yes they remove oil but you do need a general cleaning fluid to remove the stain. The 'simple' fluids are based on isopropyl  alcohol (IPA) and you could try finishing wet cleaning off with this as there are no other components in it.

The other thing to mention is if you have enough time to consider blotting the remaining fluid off the sensor with a tissue before it evaporates, then you are using FAR TOO MUCH fluid! It should be used so sparingly that it has evaporated by the time the swab has been lifted from the sensor. This may be the fundamental problem and the cause of the stain.

Thanks a lot. Too much liquid is my problem . 

[Einst_Stein]

8 hours ago, LocalHero1953 said:

I also found that gel sticks can leave a residue, and the water-based wet fluid swabs leave streaks, however little fluid I use.

I now use a sequence of blower, Arctic Butterfly brush (like yours) and swabs with IPA (isopropyl alcohol), which remove any oily or sticky residue.

As 250swb says, if you are thinking about blotting off any liquid residue, then you're probably using too much.

This advice about not blowing dust into the innards of the camera is just one of the things excessively techie and nerdy people (like me from time to time) get hung up about. You can always find a reason for not doing something. OTOH a blower removes loose dust without any risk of grinding it across your sensor surface with a brush or swab. Take your pick among the various nightmare scenarios that leave you in a cold sweat.

There are several versions of advise against blower.

1: avoid large strong blower, too strong can cause problem

2: dont use eletric blower,

3: the blower must have dust filter to avoid blowering dust onto the sensor

4: use the blower that will not blow static eletric charge (ie, use OURS)

5: dont use blower at all , use micro vacuun 

 

 

 

 

[LocalHero1953]

4 hours ago, Einst_Stein said:

There are several versions of advise against blower.

1: avoid large strong blower, too strong can cause problem

2: dont use eletric blower,

3: the blower must have dust filter to avoid blowering dust onto the sensor

4: use the blower that will not blow static eletric charge (ie, use OURS)

5: dont use blower at all , use micro vacuun 

 

 

 

 

I hope all those who offered one of those can back it up with research and evidence that shows the consequences of not following it!

[250swb]

11 hours ago, LocalHero1953 said:

I hope all those who offered one of those can back it up with research and evidence that shows the consequences of not following it!

Or just use common sense. If there's no doubt that airborne dust can get into a camera there can be no doubt that air is the culprit, the dust didn't get up and walk. Blowing air around is simply redistributing the dust and as you didn't see the dust going in you'll not see if it came out. Every other method of removing dust, be it swab, brush, or pad fixes the dust onto itself and removes it from the inside of the camera to another location more suited to the natural habitat of dust. 

Just about every complicated machine made by man requires the removal of dust and not just the redistribution of dust at some point in it's manufacture or functioning. Car engines couldn't run for long without dust filters, you need to clean a computer by vacuuming dust out of it and not blowing it around, and nobody would be happy if the new car had dust underneath the paint.

The Rocket blower doesn't buck this trend, it isn't meant for eliminating dust in the first place, it is meant for redistributing dust on the understanding it will come back. Leica cameras are at their dirtiest when new, and ironically for brand new owners this is also the time of greatest nervousness about cleaning them properly. But the cleaner you can get the camera in the early days, removing both airborne dust and dust caused by parts bedding in, the cleaner the camera will stay in the future.

[Einst_Stein]

20 hours ago, LocalHero1953 said:

I hope all those who offered one of those can back it up with research and evidence that shows the consequences of not following it!

All advice were given by people based on good will. Never thought to put them in guilty unless proved innocent. 

Some advices might seem to have comertial background if I t implies “use ours is the better solution” although even so it has some truth to themselves other they won’t bother to make and sell it. .

For me, I agree I can only judge by my common sense. And I take it the valuable advice.

In my experiences, the spinning/electric static charged brush can do all positive jobs the blower can do, and the touch is so light that I believe it is harmless.  I do clean the brush tip in alcohol when I think it may have picked some. oil. 

Edited February 5, 2019 by Einst_Stein

[jaeger]

The gel stick is a big scam, it is a silicon cube but nothing else.  Very easy to DIY, either from dry out silicon glue or cut out from a cheap big chunk of silicon. 

The wipe is indeed better, which supposed to be 25 cent each.  The solution is actually bone cheap waterless alcohol or pure alcohol.  

Spend your money wisely. 

[Einst_Stein]

11 hours ago, jaeger said:

The gel stick is a big scam, it is a silicon cube but nothing else.  Very easy to DIY, either from dry out silicon glue or cut out from a cheap big chunk of silicon. 

The wipe is indeed better, which supposed to be 25 cent each.  The solution is actually bone cheap waterless alcohol or pure alcohol.  

Spend your money wisely. 

I think the gel stick itself should be a good tool. The problem might be in the sticky paper for removing the dust off the gel. I suspect the sticky material on that paper causes the leftover. 

With the help of all the posts I think all it takes is only the combination of the motorized brush, the wipe stick of the right size, and the proper cleaning liquid. The key is the right amount of the liquid. It should be just one to two drops (or spray) that can evaporate to dry in seconds.  It takes some practice to get right. I will use my cell phone or any glass practice. 

On the proper liquid, I still need to practice to choose. The guide is:

1. Pure water is the safest choice in terms of chemical reaction. Try it first.

2, When pure water does not work, Zeiss Coated Lens Cleaner (5% alcohol) could be the next choice.

3. High concentration alcohol could be the next choice, but not sure yet. 

[jaapv]

12 hours ago, jaeger said:

The gel stick is a big scam, it is a silicon cube but nothing else.  Very easy to DIY, either from dry out silicon glue or cut out from a cheap big chunk of silicon. 

The wipe is indeed better, which supposed to be 25 cent each.  The solution is actually bone cheap waterless alcohol or pure alcohol.  

Spend your money wisely. 

Well, I would stick ( ) to the scam. Both viscosity and stickiness must be precisely calculated. It is not for nothing that Eyelead offers different gelsticks for different sensors. For Leica you need the Sony type. I might add that Leica uses the Pentax gel stick for cleaning sensors.

I have nothing but good experiences with the Eyelead stick (and a bad one with another brand) for over a decade.

Waterless alcohol does not exist. You can get 99% alcohol that is bl**dy expensive, but it is so hygroscopic that it will start diluting from the moisture in the air as soon as you open the bottle. There are antiseptic handwash solutions that are touted as "waterless" but all contain fatty substances like Lanolin. Not a good idea to smear onto your sensor.

[Einst_Stein]

About the liquid. back to school, I was using Acetone to clean the silicon chips as the harmless cleaner. It is super fast evaporating. I am not sure if it is harmless to the plastic, such as the IC packaging. 

   

[Einst_Stein]

I have read a lot of horrible stories about Gel Stick.  The brand name mentioned were all Eyelead and the camera/sensors were all Sony.

It might be due to the in-sensor/body anti-vibration. While it is commonly advised to take out the battery while cleaning camera (that has no IBAV), I have a vague impression that for Sony and any camera with IBAV the battery should be loaded, turn on the power, and put it in the mode that the sensor is firmly held by the camera (not movable). If the sensor is "floating", it could be hard to separate the gel from the sensor, and it could even damage the sensor-camera connection.

I have tried Gel Stick and motorized brush, I found it is extremely rare that some thing can be removed by gel but no by the brush. So I have completely given up the gel stick. 

I have watched authorized camera stores cleaning the sensor. All of them actually do use blower, wiper, and cleaning liquid. and most of them do recommend motorized brush as the "safest tool especially if you are not sure". None of them I know of use gel stick. However, my sample space is very small. 

[marchyman]

8 hours ago, jaapv said:

For Leica you need the Sony type. I might add that Leica uses the Pentax gel stick for cleaning sensors.

I don't understand those statement.  You need X but Leica uses Y.    Why would Leica not use the the needed type?  Or is the needed type not actually needed.

[jaapv]

Leica uses the Pentax stick, Eyelead offers two different type sticks, as I said. Two different brands, two different approaches. 

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[jaapv]

8 hours ago, Einst_Stein said:

I have read a lot of horrible stories about Gel Stick.  The brand name mentioned were all Eyelead and the camera/sensors were all Sony.

It might be due to the in-sensor/body anti-vibration. While it is commonly advised to take out the battery while cleaning camera (that has no IBAV), I have a vague impression that for Sony and any camera with IBAV the battery should be loaded, turn on the power, and put it in the mode that the sensor is firmly held by the camera (not movable). If the sensor is "floating", it could be hard to separate the gel from the sensor, and it could even damage the sensor-camera connection.

I have tried Gel Stick and motorized brush, I found it is extremely rare that some thing can be removed by gel but no by the brush. So I have completely given up the gel stick. 

I have watched authorized camera stores cleaning the sensor. All of them actually do use blower, wiper, and cleaning liquid. and most of them do recommend motorized brush as the "safest tool especially if you are not sure". None of them I know of use gel stick. However, my sample space is very small. 

Often a wrong technique I suppose. One should wobble, not pull. 

[Einst_Stein]

Yes, I am sure it is about the technique. I do know the gel should “roll over” or “wobble”. Doing so on Sony can feel “slippery” when the sensor is floating. Feel very unsecure.