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I gave up and got a Leica IIIc converted to IIIf (that's the way it was described) and I think it is what was described. I got it with a nice Summitar (coated with 10 blades). Picture below.

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Now few questions:

- It was described as in good condition and I ran a roll through it. Slow speeds seem ok but high speeds (1/500 and 1/1000) seem overexposing (by 1 to 2 stops). Should I get it CLAed or it is normal for this old camera?

- My 50mm Summitar's aperture ring is very stiff and doesn't close below f11. I hope it is not natural. CLA should help. Right?

Edited by jmahto
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The Summitar seems ok shooting in the Sun. I read that it flares badly without hood (I don't have barn door hood). Few pics with Sun just outside the frame and within the frame.

BTW, it is coated with 10 blades.

 

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Thanks. In general I like it. However I am not sure I will like it better than my M2 (some members seem to prefer it to M series). Maybe I have to give it some time. :)

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The aperture ring should be fairly loose on the Summitar to stop the focus changing when adjusting the aperture. I recommend you get an adapter for the filter ring so you can use standard 39mm filters and a screw on hood. The body looks nice but I'd use it a bit more before deciding on a CLA.

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I don't think LTM bodies generate love at first sight for new users in the modern age of cameras, and certainly not for seasoned M users....at first. It took me over 20 years of M use to even try one (in a camera shop)...and I was really turned off by the squinty viewfinder, etc. Fast forward another 25 years and I decided to try one again and absolutely fell in love with it, and I frequently choose it over my M2. So give yours a chance and a year's time...you too may fall in love again.

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16 hours ago, 250swb said:

The aperture ring should be fairly loose on the Summitar to stop the focus changing when adjusting the aperture. I recommend you get an adapter for the filter ring so you can use standard 39mm filters and a screw on hood. The body looks nice but I'd use it a bit more before deciding on a CLA.

I searched the internet and used a little solvent (light fluid) and it loosened up nicely. I will use it for some time and then send it to CLA some later time (the aperture marks don't align fully at extreme stops (f2 and f16).

So far I am happy with it (except doubting shutter speeds faster than 1/250). I am getting adapter ring for 39mm filter. I have 3X ND filter that should bring down the speed to trusted speeds for Ti-X.

It is growing on me...

One last thing. I liked the "T" option on slow shutter dial. Sometimes I do multiple hour exposure for star trains. Now I can do it without external remote cable! :)

Edited by jmahto
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To be in character for an early 1950s Leica, think about the film speeds available then. 125 was considered a fast film for low light use, and general purpose might have been 50 ASA.

In fact Pan F + at 50 is my favorite film in an ltm Leica. Then you don’t need shutter speeds over 250!

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The slow speeds overexposing is not as bad as if they were under exposing and being uneven at the fastest speeds.

if the lens aperture scale is a bit out of alignment with the f stop marks that might be related to the overexposure, if you are opening the aperture up to balance the faster speed of the shutter you may not be actually getting the aperture the scale indicates.

the best way to see if it is just the shutter would be to take the same scene at a series of shutter speeds but at a fixed aperture, then you will see if the negative densities vary by about one stop from one negative to the next.

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12 hours ago, Pyrogallol said:

The slow speeds overexposing is not as bad as if they were under exposing and being uneven at the fastest speeds.

if the lens aperture scale is a bit out of alignment with the f stop marks that might be related to the overexposure, if you are opening the aperture up to balance the faster speed of the shutter you may not be actually getting the aperture the scale indicates.

the best way to see if it is just the shutter would be to take the same scene at a series of shutter speeds but at a fixed aperture, then you will see if the negative densities vary by about one stop from one negative to the next.

I meant to say “the HIGH speeds overexposing”

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20 hours ago, Pyrogallol said:

I meant to say “the HIGH speeds overexposing”

I understood right. :)

This time I loaded TMax100 and  shot mostly under 1/100 on my day hike today. I also shot test frames by varying only shutter speed from 1/60 to 1/1000. Then I started preparing chemicals and found that I am out of fixer! Grrrrrrr.... :(

Edited by jmahto
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Heavy2stars carry the adapter rings to be able to use regular 39mm filters and hoods on a Summitar. This is the address of their shop http://www.ebaystores.co.uk/Heavy2stars-Photo-Gear Their repro adapters and hoods, are often a fraction of the price of well worn originals. They also carry the otherwise unobtainable series 5.5 to e39 adapter rings for the Summicron 40C from the CL. One word of caution, the anodised aluminium they use, seems to be very "sticky" and prone to binding on the front of lenses. I would strongly recommend putting a small smear (I use a cotton bud) of silicone, non-evaporating grease on the male and female threads, which cures the problem. 

Wilson

Edited by wlaidlaw
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