My First Leica - M10 For The New Year!

[ouweichao]

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I also made M10 + 352 Summicron as my new year's gift. 

[budjames]

Congratulations on your purchase.

I purchased my first Leica, the M10 in black, last November for my early Christmas present to myself. I also purchased the Summicron 35 and 75 and Summilux 50 lenses.

Unfortunately, I had focusing issues with the 35 and 50 so I took them to the Leica repair center in NJ. The bad news was that both lenses were way out of calibration from the factory. They kept the lenses, but I didn't get them back until 6 weeks later. As a result, I had a new camera but could not use it during the Christmas holiday. I also had an issue with the 35mm mounted that the lens would register as "R adapted M" instead of Summicron 35. This affected the lens data embedded in the DNG file. I discovered quickly moving the lens frame line lever multiple times that I could duplicate the problem. As I used the camera, the problem occurred much less frequently. I have not sent the body in for repairs because it takes so long to get it back.

Recently, my Summilux 50 lens barrel became loose. Not a good feeling. I just sent this lens back to the Leica repair center to get this fixed. So much for legendary Leica quality.

I have since purchased a second M10 body in black and a few more lenses: Noctilux 50 f0.95, Summicron 90, Summilux 35 and Super Elmar 18.

Overall, I have been very happy with my Leica experience, even after a rough start. The Leica image quality is addicting even though my Fuji X gear produces excellent images too.

You can see my images at www.budjames.photography. All images are processed with Capture One Pro for the past 3 years. I dropped Lightroom because it did a terrible job with Fuji X raw processing.

Regards,
Bud James

Please check out my fine art and travel photography at www.budjames.photography or on Instagram at www.instagram.com/budjamesphoto.

[JDFlood]

Congratulations. I did the same purchase about a year and a half ago. The lens is the perfect every day / street lens. My intent was only one lens... but that didn’t last forever. I took my time and realized that my priorities for lenses are very different from my Nikon and Fuji. In general the quality is the same for large and small lenses (expensive and less expensive) so I picked the lens for the compliment to the camera and subject. To me the sweet spot is 28mm to 50mm. I also love the 9omm f4 Elma’s. So even if money is no object I would let the camera lead you to lenses, and maybe the some of best are small and less expensive. Although the 50mm Summilux I think is a must have. Enjoy, I sure have. JD

[muah]

My Leica M10 is almost 3 days old now.........and went with 28-50mm combo lens as well.

 

Love the compactness of the kit.  Though i am still learning to focus.

[PhoebusXS]

On 1/5/2019 at 7:59 PM, budjames said:

Congratulations on your purchase.

I purchased my first Leica, the M10 in black, last November for my early Christmas present to myself. I also purchased the Summicron 35 and 75 and Summilux 50 lenses.

Unfortunately, I had focusing issues with the 35 and 50 so I took them to the Leica repair center in NJ. The bad news was that both lenses were way out of calibration from the factory. They kept the lenses, but I didn't get them back until 6 weeks later. As a result, I had a new camera but could not use it during the Christmas holiday. I also had an issue with the 35mm mounted that the lens would register as "R adapted M" instead of Summicron 35. This affected the lens data embedded in the DNG file. I discovered quickly moving the lens frame line lever multiple times that I could duplicate the problem. As I used the camera, the problem occurred much less frequently. I have not sent the body in for repairs because it takes so long to get it back.

Recently, my Summilux 50 lens barrel became loose. Not a good feeling. I just sent this lens back to the Leica repair center to get this fixed. So much for legendary Leica quality.

I have since purchased a second M10 body in black and a few more lenses: Noctilux 50 f0.95, Summicron 90, Summilux 35 and Super Elmar 18.

Overall, I have been very happy with my Leica experience, even after a rough start. The Leica image quality is addicting even though my Fuji X gear produces excellent images too.

You can see my images at www.budjames.photography. All images are processed with Capture One Pro for the past 3 years. I dropped Lightroom because it did a terrible job with Fuji X raw processing.

Regards,
Bud James

Please check out my fine art and travel photography at www.budjames.photography or on Instagram at www.instagram.com/budjamesphoto.

Mine has back focusing problem. Just sent it in.. Hopefully won't take too long.

[TG14]

On 1/7/2019 at 3:54 PM, PhoebusXS said:

Mine has back focusing problem. Just sent it in.. Hopefully won't take too long.

Didnt you just get it end of dec? 

How did you notice the issue?

 

 

[PhoebusXS]

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14 hours ago, TG14 said:

Didnt you just get it end of dec? 

How did you notice the issue?

 

 

What do you mean? I noticed because I see back focusing images and tested it to confirm it...... Is there another way one could notice it?

Yes I got it 31st of Dec.

[ironringer]

A question for many of us - are Leica products cheaper in Singapore, than in North America or Europe? Several Forum members seem to shop there.

[PhoebusXS]

1 hour ago, ironringer said:

A question for many of us - are Leica products cheaper in Singapore, than in North America or Europe? Several Forum members seem to shop there.

More expensive than USA. But I live here, and I usually buy things from a local boutique, just to have a point of contact for future purchases or customer service.

[TG14]

11 hours ago, PhoebusXS said:

What do you mean? I noticed because I see back focusing images and tested it to confirm it...... Is there another way one could notice it?

Yes I got it 31st of Dec.

How did you test it? How far was the back focus?

 

I tried testing my m10 with cron 50 and this was how I tested:

1. setup test page 2m away on a wall

2. place m10 on tripod 2m away

3. focus using live view with focus assist (red glow around edges) and check if RF is aligned

This was in a room with interior (not particularly bright, iso was auto at 1600). Not a scientifically rigorous test.

[TG14]

9 hours ago, PhoebusXS said:

More expensive than USA. But I live here, and I usually buy things from a local boutique, just to have a point of contact for future purchases or customer service.

I'm based in SGP too. Where do you buy your leica from?

[PhoebusXS]

17 minutes ago, TG14 said:

I'm based in SGP too. Where do you buy your leica from?

Back focus is about 2cm. On the RF it will disalign about one frameline's width.

So how precise is yours?

I got mine from Leica Store Raffles Hotel. Getting my replacement tmr.

Edited January 9, 2019 by PhoebusXS

[TG14]

11 hours ago, PhoebusXS said:

Back focus is about 2cm. On the RF it will disalign about one frameline's width.

So how precise is yours?

I got mine from Leica Store Raffles Hotel. Getting my replacement tmr.

Great that they are giving you a replacement. I had an issue the first m10p i bought and it was also replaced.

 

When i tested mine, i didnt see any back focus. I define that as

- when the RF was aligned, the image (really just a printed image of a box) from live view had red focus peaking

- the physical distance from the camera (really the bolt holding the camera to the tripod) to the image was 2m

- and the focus ring on the lens was also at 2m

 

Honestly, there could be back or front focussing present, but i could not tell via this method. Would like to try a more precise method though.

[PhoebusXS]

20 minutes ago, TG14 said:

Great that they are giving you a replacement. I had an issue the first m10p i bought and it was also replaced.

 

When i tested mine, i didnt see any back focus. I define that as

- when the RF was aligned, the image (really just a printed image of a box) from live view had red focus peaking

- the physical distance from the camera (really the bolt holding the camera to the tripod) to the image was 2m

- and the focus ring on the lens was also at 2m

 

Honestly, there could be back or front focussing present, but i could not tell via this method. Would like to try a more precise method though.

If you can't tell, then there is no issue. But if you really want to test, try the method here: http://www.kscameraclub.org/docs/pdfs/focus_test_chart_edited.pdf

 

Or, try my method below.

 

Btw, to me focus peaking is not too good of an idea when test this. Focus peaking itself has a very big tolerance. I'd rather see for myself whether things are indeed sharp.

 

For your 50 cron, I will try to focus with something that is vertically placed. Vertically as when you stand in front of a wall, focus on something on the wall, but not at 45 degree angle or something. Make it 90 degrees.

Try to do this without swaying back and forth. Fix the camera location.

I will first align the focus in RF, then check live view with focus magnification, but without focus peaking.

I will then turn the ring very slightly left and right see if focus gets sharper. - If it is correctly in focus, then it should be optimal, nothing can go beyond the sharpness.

If there is any doubt, then:

I will find the tolerance range for the image to be sharp, by turning the focus ring slightly around, with focus magnification on all the time. (Turn focus magnification to manual so you can keep it zoomed in all the time)

Within the tolerance range that I find acceptable on the live view, I will test both ends of the tolerance, i.e. the closest end and the furthest end on the focus ring.

If both ends of the range result in the rangefinder alignment on different sides, then it's wonderful. Because one of the point in the tolerance range will be when RF is JUST aligned. And the alignment in RF will result in a perfect focus with DOF lying both in front and behind the subject, which is optimal.

If both ends are reached when RF misaligns in the same way (e.g. both with patch to the right), then there is a problem, since aligning the patch will result in a bad focus.

If one end of the range just has perfect alignment in the RF, then I won't worry too much. Since It is at least in focus. Just that the DOF will cover only one side of the subject - either closer side, or further side. This range is dependent on your DOF, but with Cron lenses I suppose this could be acceptable, and will just leave the adjustment until next time.

Hope you get this. Let me know if anymore explanation is needed.

 

This method above is more than enough to identify the problem. More effort but less equipment needed.

If you have the environment to properly set up a test with ruler like described in the first line's link, definitely do that, it will tell you precisely where your DOF lies.

 

Or, just get a ruler and a subject standing upright right beside a mark of the ruler. Focus on the subject, see if the mark is in focus. Check the DOF too. Make sure its about 30-45 degrees.

 

Anyways, if your image looks fine, just don't worry too much. Things have tolerances. Only do these tests if you are not sure what is "fine", LOL.

Edited January 10, 2019 by PhoebusXS

[TG14]

3 hours ago, PhoebusXS said:

If you can't tell, then there is no issue. But if you really want to test, try the method here: http://www.kscameraclub.org/docs/pdfs/focus_test_chart_edited.pdf

 

Or, try my method below.

 

Btw, to me focus peaking is not too good of an idea when test this. Focus peaking itself has a very big tolerance. I'd rather see for myself whether things are indeed sharp.

 

For your 50 cron, I will try to focus with something that is vertically placed. Vertically as when you stand in front of a wall, focus on something on the wall, but not at 45 degree angle or something. Make it 90 degrees.

Try to do this without swaying back and forth. Fix the camera location.

I will first align the focus in RF, then check live view with focus magnification, but without focus peaking.

I will then turn the ring very slightly left and right see if focus gets sharper. - If it is correctly in focus, then it should be optimal, nothing can go beyond the sharpness.

If there is any doubt, then:

I will find the tolerance range for the image to be sharp, by turning the focus ring slightly around, with focus magnification on all the time. (Turn focus magnification to manual so you can keep it zoomed in all the time)

Within the tolerance range that I find acceptable on the live view, I will test both ends of the tolerance, i.e. the closest end and the furthest end on the focus ring.

If both ends of the range result in the rangefinder alignment on different sides, then it's wonderful. Because one of the point in the tolerance range will be when RF is JUST aligned. And the alignment in RF will result in a perfect focus with DOF lying both in front and behind the subject, which is optimal.

If both ends are reached when RF misaligns in the same way (e.g. both with patch to the right), then there is a problem, since aligning the patch will result in a bad focus.

If one end of the range just has perfect alignment in the RF, then I won't worry too much. Since It is at least in focus. Just that the DOF will cover only one side of the subject - either closer side, or further side. This range is dependent on your DOF, but with Cron lenses I suppose this could be acceptable, and will just leave the adjustment until next time.

Hope you get this. Let me know if anymore explanation is needed.

 

This method above is more than enough to identify the problem. More effort but less equipment needed.

If you have the environment to properly set up a test with ruler like described in the first line's link, definitely do that, it will tell you precisely where your DOF lies.

 

Or, just get a ruler and a subject standing upright right beside a mark of the ruler. Focus on the subject, see if the mark is in focus. Check the DOF too. Make sure its about 30-45 degrees.

 

Anyways, if your image looks fine, just don't worry too much. Things have tolerances. Only do these tests if you are not sure what is "fine", LOL.

Indeed. Thanks for the ref.

 

[muah]

On 1/9/2019 at 9:16 AM, ironringer said:

A question for many of us - are Leica products cheaper in Singapore, than in North America or Europe? Several Forum members seem to shop there.

cheapest in Europe if you can get tax back.  more savings if the shop will process your tax return directly.