Transfer Digital images to 35mm Film

[luisrq]

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Hello,

I'm interested to do a trial of this service but I would like know if there are some experiences and opinions about this system:

<http://www.firstcall-photographic.co.uk/transfer-36-digital-images-back-to-35mm-film/p7124>

Thank you very much

Regards

Lluis

[jmahto]

I am trying to understand why someone will need this. I went through their page and the first advantage they mention is cost saving in printing! After I pay for this service I am not sure there is any cost saving. Other advantages like archiving and reusing dark room investment is also not convincing. Why not shoot film in the first place.

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[Martin B]

A similar process exists which can be done at home called digital negatives. I do this sometimes from digital files. Difference is that I recommend to make a negative from a digital file in a larger size than 35 mm - more like 4x5". It ensures better resolution for darkroom printing. 

[luisrq]

6 hours ago, Martin B said:

A similar process exists which can be done at home called digital negatives. I do this sometimes from digital files. Difference is that I recommend to make a negative from a digital file in a larger size than 35 mm - more like 4x5". It ensures better resolution for darkroom printing. 

Thank you Martin, I know and I've already do the procedure for digital negatives for my exhibition in the Rangefinder Gallery at Tamarkin Camera in Chicago, 15 of my pictures was made frrom Digital Negatives, size 8x12" contact prints o Ilford FB paper, but I've not liked very much the system, the response of the curves is not the same, I have mesured with a densitometer the different areas and the extremes Zones 0 and I, and IX and X shall be avoid, even a little bit more. Consequently the negative has a shorter dynamic range, using PS % of reflections you can identify reflexion with zones and it is more easy to adjust, even so many of the negatives was made 2 or 3 times to adjust them on the good values. The second problem is that printers print points and don't translate with exactitude the greys gradation, finally you shall do a Negative for every size you want to print. For these reasons I'm searching other methods. I usually shoot film but some of my pictures was made in digital and it is a shame print them by inkjet. Another procedure based on the same principle is to use the Piezzofraphy technology with the special QTR Driver for the conversion to Digital Negatives, on this case the QTR Driver software is already prepared to build the correct curves and the corrections are minimal, but you need a printer with exclusively the B&W 7 inks for piezzography ..... The the best is to use film directly! 

[Martin B]

56 minutes ago, luisrq said:

Thank you Martin, I know and I've already do the procedure for digital negatives for my exhibition in the Rangefinder Gallery at Tamarkin Camera in Chicago, 15 of my pictures was made frrom Digital Negatives, size 8x12" contact prints o Ilford FB paper, but I've not liked very much the system, the response of the curves is not the same, I have mesured with a densitometer the different areas and the extremes Zones 0 and I, and IX and X shall be avoid, even a little bit more. Consequently the negative has a shorter dynamic range, using PS % of reflections you can identify reflexion with zones and it is more easy to adjust, even so many of the negatives was made 2 or 3 times to adjust them on the good values. The second problem is that printers print points and don't translate with exactitude the greys gradation, finally you shall do a Negative for every size you want to print. For these reasons I'm searching other methods. I usually shoot film but some of my pictures was made in digital and it is a shame print them by inkjet. Another procedure based on the same principle is to use the Piezzofraphy technology with the special QTR Driver for the conversion to Digital Negatives, on this case the QTR Driver software is already prepared to build the correct curves and the corrections are minimal, but you need a printer with exclusively the B&W 7 inks for piezzography ..... The the best is to use film directly! 

I stick to 4x5" digital negatives and put it in my Beseler 45M enlarger which allows me to make prints in all kind of sizes (normally 8x10 or 11x14"). I have never done contact printing. You are right about the curvatures - it is tricky and will never be the same as digital. My best result is like this:

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Fortunately the lack of grey scales doesn't seem to be a big issue when I actually make the prints. Results come out like this:

[Michael Hiles]

Odd approach. Better start with film, IMO.

Silver prints from digital files can be done by a few outlets – in particular IlfoLab Direct. They have made excellent prints for me, at fairly reasonable prices. Much better than printing onto film and heading for the darkroom.

[luisrq]

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On 11/9/2018 at 1:32 AM, Martin B said:

I stick to 4x5" digital negatives and put it in my Beseler 45M enlarger which allows me to make prints in all kind of sizes (normally 8x10 or 11x14"). I have never done contact printing. You are right about the curvatures - it is tricky and will never be the same as digital. My best result is like this:

Welcome, dear visitor! As registered member you'd see an image here…

Simply register for free here – We are always happy to welcome new members!

Fortunately the lack of grey scales doesn't seem to be a big issue when I actually make the prints. Results come out like this:

 

On 11/9/2018 at 1:32 AM, Martin B said:

I stick to 4x5" digital negatives and put it in my Beseler 45M enlarger which allows me to make prints in all kind of sizes (normally 8x10 or 11x14"). I have never done contact printing. You are right about the curvatures - it is tricky and will never be the same as digital. My best result is like this:

Fortunately the lack of grey scales doesn't seem to be a big issue when I actually make the prints. Results come out like this:

 

On 11/9/2018 at 1:32 AM, Martin B said:

I stick to 4x5" digital negatives and put it in my Beseler 45M enlarger which allows me to make prints in all kind of sizes (normally 8x10 or 11x14"). I have never done contact printing. You are right about the curvatures - it is tricky and will never be the same as digital. My best result is like this:

Fortunately the lack of grey scales doesn't seem to be a big issue when I actually make the prints. Results come out like this:

 

[luisrq]

On 11/9/2018 at 1:32 AM, Martin B said:

I stick to 4x5" digital negatives and put it in my Beseler 45M enlarger which allows me to make prints in all kind of sizes (normally 8x10 or 11x14"). I have never done contact printing. You are right about the curvatures - it is tricky and will never be the same as digital. My best result is like this:

Welcome, dear visitor! As registered member you'd see an image here…

Simply register for free here – We are always happy to welcome new members!

Fortunately the lack of grey scales doesn't seem to be a big issue when I actually make the prints. Results come out like this:

 

Just now, luisrq said:

Thanks again Martin, I have tried on a very big enlarger  do an enlargement directly on photographic paper with a digital negative 8x12", but the points of the print was too much evidents and finally I did the work by contact prints. Thanks for showing your work, it look to be IR pictures, maybe the reactions are different from IR....?

 

 

 

[luisrq]

On 11/9/2018 at 4:19 AM, Michael Hiles said:

Odd approach. Better start with film, IMO.

Silver prints from digital files can be done by a few outlets – in particular IlfoLab Direct. They have made excellent prints for me, at fairly reasonable prices. Much better than printing onto film and heading for the darkroom.

Thank you Michael, As far as I know the Labs doing this work they do on RC paper, and I'm looking to work on FB paper