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MP vs M7

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Street shooting ? Then M7 on Aperture Priority plus 35mm or 28mm or 24mm set to hyperfocal. Faster than anything.

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It certainly IS a tough choice. My last word on the subject: buy an MP (chrome preferably), and if you're not happy I'll trade you my M7 (less than one roll through it so far).

 

Sound fair?

 

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Jason,

I shoot an MP & M3 for weddings and have recently tested an M7 purely because of the AE. It's an excellent camera and the choice deserves consideration.

 

I'm far from expert at street work, but when the sun shines through hotel and church windows, I suspect that the exposure process is more demanding than the street and continually changing aperture for effect and lighting with a compensating change to timing on 600 shots in an afternoon can be exasperating. The M7 solves that as it has an excellent meter and the results from frame, focus, aperture and shoot are much easier than balancing the triangles.

 

If it wasn't that a DSLR came along and made lif easier, at the expense of absolute quality and personal satisfaction, I'd have two M7s in my bag today.

 

My MP will probably stay until the M8 is sorted.

 

Rolo

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I have used my camera on full manual, but it isn't fun. There are no depth of field markings on my lenses so I basically end up using autofocus. Setting it on manual isn't fun because there are too many things on the camera. I always feel distracted. The meter is so advanced that I always feel like leaving it on AE anyway. Full manual on a D200 is like using the paddle shifting on an automatic car, it just doesn't feel right.

 

I want a camera like the M7 or MP. I had an interest in the M8, but I don't think buying another digital camera would be a good investment. I'm still somewhat tempted to get an M8, but I don't think the M8 would make me a better photographer.

 

If I did get an M7 or MP, I would only shoot probably a roll per week. I don't shoot a lot, and I like to sit still when I shoot. I don't move around a lot. I'm thinking that I would be able to manage without AE.

 

Anyone have any advice on lenses to get?

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I think I am leaning towards the MP. I don't usually shoot slower than 1/30 so that leaves only 6 positions to choose. If I can't figure out how to choose one of those, then I must be doing something wrong.

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I have used my camera on full manual, but it isn't fun. There are no depth of field markings on my lenses so I basically end up using autofocus. Setting it on manual isn't fun because there are too many things on the camera. I always feel distracted. The meter is so advanced that I always feel like leaving it on AE anyway. Full manual on a D200 is like using the paddle shifting on an automatic car, it just doesn't feel right.

 

I want a camera like the M7 or MP. I had an interest in the M8, but I don't think buying another digital camera would be a good investment. I'm still somewhat tempted to get an M8, but I don't think the M8 would make me a better photographer.

 

If I did get an M7 or MP, I would only shoot probably a roll per week. I don't shoot a lot, and I like to sit still when I shoot. I don't move around a lot. I'm thinking that I would be able to manage without AE.

 

Anyone have any advice on lenses to get?

 

My subjects a typically people too, and always found the 35-50-90 combination to be ideal. If I did any type of architectural work, then I would get a wider angle lens, but most folks will suggest that you start with one standard, use it for awhile and determine where, if you find you need another lens, to go from there.

 

If you do street action, then I would start with a 35mm lens, because of its depth of field issues. I also think the 35-90 combo is a versatile and light weight outfit. But it also depends on your personality too. I feel that you often have to get into a person's "personal space" to get a good pic with a 35mm lens. Now, if you're very outgoing and not caring what others think, fine. Otherwise, maybe a 50mm lens would be in order.

 

And I'm definately a high speed junkie. I think one of the great things about Leica rangefinders is their available light ability. I think everyone should have at least one fast lens. The extra stop of a Summilux over a Summicron seems to make a big difference to me often. But then I do a lot of indoor shooting, and Summilux's are bigger, heavier lenses. But if you are going to get a fast lens, then it probably should be your standard.

 

One of the stupid things I did in my life is to sell my 35mm Summilux ASPH, because I already had a Summicron of the same speed.

 

Ultimately, its a personal thing determined by a lot of trial and error. What works for one person my not work for another, even if the subjects are the same. And don't feel bad if you get something and find out later you wanted something else, because that is all part of the learning process.

 

And the old saying about lenses is true -- Don't get any lenses you don't need. If you don't use it very often you probably don't need it. Less is typically truly more. But definately get the lenses you need.

 

But even this is just a guideline. Some people are "gear heads" and they really enjoy having a shelf full of lenses, and there's nothing wrong with that.

 

Another combination which would be appealing for people taking is a 35mm lens, preferably, in my mind, a Summilux ASPH, and a 75mm Summicron ASPH, because that 75mm lens has outstanding optical quality.

 

And this is how you may approach the question. Don't focus on which focal lengths would get most used, but find out which current Leica lenses have the best optical quality. The idea that you would get used to any focal length you select. Here's a trio that routinely gets high marks -- 90mm APO (heavy though); 75mm Summicron ASPH; 50mm Summilux ASPH. You note their is no wide angles there. I'll go out on a limb and say the 28mm Summicron ASPH has the best optical image of all wide angles, at least from what I hear.

 

But I would suggest selecting lenses based on focal length need.

 

And don't forget about the M mount Zeiss lenses. They are quite good, and in many respects equal to the Leica lenses, at less then half the price.

 

But I would start with a standard -- either a 35 or 50 --use it for awhile and see where that leads you. you'll know by the end of that period whether you want to go longer or wider or whether you need any other lens. Nothing wrong with one camera and one lens.

 

If you buy slowly, based on need, and never sell your Leica lenses, absent financial necessity, then you shoud be happy.

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My choice was determined by the fact I like shooting the film and digital M together, and that I do a lot of street/candid shooting. Keeping my process similar so I'm not "resetting" my mind depending on which camera I bring up (both hanging) meant the M7 was the better choice for me. It shares the same AE metering, the shutter dial rotates in the same direction for manual. I went so far as to add the motor winder as I found myself forgetting to rewind on occasion after just shooting a series on the M8. I absolutely love the M7, and the combo. best....Peter

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Ron, I believe you can also set the MP in-between the predefined shutter speed settings. It was possible with the M3, and therefore should also be possible with the MP. There are certain exceptions though, e.g. between 1/30 and 1/15 it's not possible (if I remember correctly), but as a rule it is possible.

 

Andy

 

Andreas,

 

Sorry for the delayed response, My M3 cannot be set in-between shutter speeds. I believe that was the M5 that is "mechanically" capable by turning the knob. The M7 can only do that through aperture priority or AE. You see the shutter speed in the Viewfinder while the knob stays on [A].

 

 

 

Anyone have any advice on lenses to get?

 

Jason,

 

So many Leica lens to mention and they are all prime. Maybe give us a hint of your subjects and we will respond accordingly. You will be amazed that many of the Thread Mount lenses are amazing and that includes Voightlander. You may need an Adaptor to mount.

 

To my taste, for B&W, I will be leaning towards the Summicron. For Colored using Pro. Film or Transparencies, I tend to lean to Summilux.

 

For first lens focal length for your M, I will advice a 50mm. This way you have it all... Not too narrow, not too wide, no distortion, and good bokeh.

 

What focal length do I use the most??? 35mm on both Summicron and Summilux. It saves me a few steps backing-off to my subjects.

 

-Ron

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I ggot a chance to see the M7, M8, and MP in person. I like the looks of the M7 more in person, but I like the MP online. I think I am going to go with an M7 because I dont like the shiny paint on the MP, and it wont hurt to have AE on the camera in case I need it. I also got a chance to see the 35mm Summicron. I liked its size and weight. I think I'm going to go with the 35 because I dont mind gettin close tk my subjects. I haven't ruled out the 50 though. Now that I've chosen a camera, I need to ettle on one lens, and i dont need a telephoto

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I think I'm going to go with the 35 because I dont mind gettin close tk my subjects. I haven't ruled out the 50 though. Now that I've chosen a camera, I need to ettle on one lens, and i dont need a telephoto

 

The 35mm is the favorit off most Leica M users, followed by the 50mm.

 

You still have to choose the viewfinder 0,58 - 0,72 or 0,85

I have a 0,72 on my M6TTL and a 0,58 on my M7

Both are perfect for the 35mm lens, but I prefer the 0,58 magnification because, I find, the bright line frame for the 28mm lens is hard to see with a 0,72 magnification.

 

rgs

 

Luc

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I prefer M7 to my M6 classic.

 

90% of my exposures are made manually, not using the AE.

 

Shutter speeds are more accurate.

 

Meter is more precise.

 

Nice to have AE available as fall back when don't have time to make thoughtful exposure decisions. And M7's AE has been quite good, especially after its first CLA. I can now "point and shoot" with Kodachrome.

 

- David

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From an old post of mine:

 

The MP, while beautiful, has no advantage for me once I had DAG install the MP advance lever on my M7 (I have an easier time catching it with my thumb and I prefer its aesthetics as well). The "right-way" shutter-speed wheel, as some would call it, I feel is a design flaw; the counter-intuitiveness of it may cost a shot here and there. The fact it can operate without batteries is an overstated virtue as well, as the M7 has two speeds that don't require batteries and it's easy enough to have fresh batteries anyway as you would fresh film. The M7 can work in full manual as the MP, but manual mode is silly to me unless you are using a separate light-meter. That would be true manual mode. But using the built-in meter and then adjusting the shutter speed yourself is just adding a step, one more thing that has to be done before you can shoot. Not to mention the greater accuracy that the electronic shutter can bring to an exposure (even if it is only a third or half a stop or whatever it is). I lost many shots fiddling with that thing on my M6 before I got wise.

 

No contest for me. M7.

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If you are a 'purist', get the MP.

 

If you are a 'super purist', get the MP3.

 

If you want the greatest combination of speed and exposure success, get the M7. (particularly if you have fast moving Grandkids).

 

Lenses?

 

Primes: 35 (ASPH) and 50mm Summicrons, 90mm Elmarit (late), 50mm DR for nostalgia.

 

Convieniance: 28/35/50 Tri-Elmar ASPH.

 

Street: 24mm Elmarit ASPH.

 

Works for me,

 

Jerry

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Along with a host of other cameras, I use my Lieca M's for a living.

 

I have an M6TTL with MP finder optics.

And I have a black MP-3 with the Liecavit and 50 ASPH.

 

I also have an M3 w/ a 50mm collapsable for a more interesting look.

 

The only other lens I have is the 28mm Summicron. I had a 35, but wanted a different look than what everyone else was getting.

 

So I really only use two mechanical bodies with a 28 and a 50, real simple.

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"I want a camera that requires more user input, and I can't figure out which one would be a better choice."

Two other considerations come to mind: is the rewind system ergonomically suitable for you with the MP? I much preferred it to the cranked handle on the M6TTL. A second reason for swapping to an MP was that the rotation of the shutter dial on the MP was (for me) intuitive, whereas that on the M6 was 'backwards'. (So many have commented on this.)

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