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35 1.4 Chromatic Abberation


rareace
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Hi everyone,

I'm new to this forum and just picked up the CL with the 35 1.4. I came from Sony and bought Leica for two reasons: the "look" and lenses.

I've noticed that on bright days shooting wide open the CA on the lens is awful. I know this is something that can be corrected in post but this is by far the worst compared to anything I have used. Anyone else with this lens notice this?

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It is not impossible, the more precise edge contrast of a lens is, the more prone it is to purple fringing on high-contrast edges.

I have not heard many complaints about this particular lens, though. Could you post some examples?

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Here is a pic at the beach showing some extreme CA. I like to use the app to post on social media so having to post edit can be annoying...

Sorry but I see very little if any chromatic aberration in that photo. The highlights are burnt out but it just looks like a strongly backlit photo.

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I'd hardly call that chromatic aberration. I've seen that kind of color shift on moving water at the edge of a frame at steep incident angle to the lens even with APO lenses. And even with my naked eyes now and then.

Edited by ramarren
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Thanks for all the replies and comments. I did overexpose this on purpose as my son was backlit and wanted to make sure it showed the color fringing on the water. It seems the consensus is normal so I'll leave it as that. Guess I just didn't really notice it in my other cameras....FYI this was shot without the hood (it's quite large and a pain to leave on while traveling) but if that would help I'd gladly keep it on!

On a side note: Are there any autofocus APO lenses for the CL?

Edited by rareace
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Thanks for all the replies and comments. I did overexpose this on purpose as my son was backlit and wanted to make sure it showed the color fringing on the water. It seems the consensus is normal so I'll leave it as that. Guess I just didn't really notice it in my other cameras....FYI this was shot without the hood (it's quite large and a pain to leave on while traveling) but if that would help I'd gladly keep it on!

On a side note: Are there any autofocus APO lenses for the CL?

 

Yes, the 60mm macro and 50 - 135 zoom are apo lenses.

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The VARIO-ELMARIT-SL 1:2.8–4/24–90 ASPH for the SL can be used together with the CL, a little bit bulky but workable - gives very good quality of pictures and enables the CL to use the stabilizer of thisvlens. The 90/280 - which I use on the SL is excellent even with the CL, but in my opinion too big for this body. And therefore I use it only

very seldom and prefer the 50 - 135 TL.

Edited by HeinzX
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On a side note: the sky is not just overexposed but also heavily posterized. That is the post processing or you tortured a jpg file. Shoot DNG and in Photoshop work in 16 bits. As for shadows, the camera is quite good at pulling them up. No need to ETTR.

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UK ‘Amateur Photographer’ Weekly Magazine incidentally said always set exposure for the correct sky rendition, in their CL camera test, as the sensor is as good as any on the market right now for extracting as much detail from deep shadow as you want, in raw. Their only gripe is with the same sensor in the TL2, the jpegs are not as good in comparison to CL jpegs. I wonder why ? This will not put me off buying a TL2 eventually. The question is, will I PX my ‘T’ ? Quite likely not. It still thrills me with its special colour images, and lovely ‘cibachrome’ jpegs. My 23mm often has purple fringing in the corners, leaves and branches the main culprits, but a shift of the slide in ‘lens correction’ on lightroom, and its gone away.

Edited by Petercoll
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UK ‘Amateur Photographer’ Weekly Magazine incidentally said always set exposure for the correct sky rendition, in their CL camera test, as the sensor is as good as any on the market right now for extracting as much detail from deep shadow as you want, in raw. Their only gripe is with the same sensor in the TL2, the jpegs are not as good in comparison to CL jpegs. I wonder why ? This will not put me off buying a TL2 eventually. The question is, will I PX my ‘T’ ? Quite likely not. It still thrills me with its special colour images, and lovely ‘cibachrome’ jpegs. My 23mm often has purple fringing in the corners, leaves and branches the main culprits, but a shift of the slide in ‘lens correction’ on lightroom, and its gone away.

They probably haven't looked at a TL2 since the June firmware upgrade.

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I've noticed that on bright days shooting wide open the CA on the lens is awful. I know this is something that can be corrected in post but this is by far the worst compared to anything I have used. Anyone else with this lens notice this?

 

if you literally mean wide open (f/1.4) in bright sunlight, then you need a shutter speed of 1/16000 sec. at ISO 100. With a "real" shutter that uncovers and then covers the sensor, not an electronic shutter. The CL is limited to 1/8000th.

 

Otherwise you are blowing out the sensor's capabilities, which accounts for both the gray band in the sky and the CA in the water. It doesn't matter that the child is backlit - the water is still directly reflecting that continuous thermonuclear explosion called "the sun" at full force. So the reflections blow out and you get magenta/purple "glows" around each reflected image of the sun.

 

Emphasized - as Jaap says - by the edge contrast of the Summilux ASPH itself. It is well-known that that lens will purple-fringe if the photographer goofs on the exposure. Not much leeway.

 

It's analogous to the old joke about the patient who tells his doctor, "It hurts when I do this!" And the doctor responds, "Well, don't do that!"

 

Don't try to shoot at f/1.4 under bright sunlight unless you have the shutter capability necessary. Or live with the "pain" that will result.

 

Or - get a dark ND filter to reduce the light flow to match your mechanical shutter's capability (1/8000), with the "imaging" of f/1.4 - if you must. And even so, expose for the highlights.

Edited by adan
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