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With MA, M7 or M6. Will I make better photos than with IIIf or IIIg ?.


Dopaco

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Hello:

Thank you all for all the information received.

 

Today I received the objective I had requested.

 

Now I have to observe it. Counting on experiences

What are the main points that I must observe to make sure that the objective works correctly? ..

 

287odv6.jpg

 

regards

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Google - lens flashlight test. Observe the lens with it.

Take pictures in front of the brickwall on sunny day. Observe results for even sharpness.

Google - lens focus chart, print it. Take pictures of it with camera on the tripod and by shutter release cable.

Observe images for focus accuracy.

 

As a beginner in analog and having asked this question in other forums with insastifecho results, he repeats it in this forum:

 

To start with the analog, I bought a Leica IIIf and recently a IIIg and a photometer. With these tools and according to my criteria, I obtained moderately acceptable results and now is when the next question arises.

 

If I buy an MA, M7 or M6 and with the same objectives ... Do you think I can make better pictures?

 

 

Before making any other new investment, I would like to know vustras opinon.

 

I await your wise advice and recommendations.

 

Thank you very much.

I sold M3 after getting SBOOI and placing it on LTM camera. SBOOI is true 1:1 and so is my LTM camera RF window. M3 was not 1:1.

I would also prefer 21mm lens on Leica LTM instead of M. Both needed external VF, but LTM offers smaller package.

But nothing beats M2, M4 framelines for 35mm lens. If I have to use only one film camera it would be my M4-2 and 35 Summarit-M.

Edited by Ko.Fe.
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Thank you all.

The test with flashlight made and all good.

The other tests remain pending.

 

My IIIg with the summicron 50mm f2.

 

Photo taken with M8 + Summicron C40 f2.

 

43836970534_a6a22220fe_b.jpg[/url]

 

Photo taken with M8 + (adapter) + Elmar 9cm f4:

 

43836971114_35ff3e3c20_b.jpg[/url]

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Thank you all.
The test with flashlight made and all good.
...

 

Congratulations on finding what appears to be a near mint Summicron 2/50mm. The lenses look crystal clear, so your lens should perform as intended by the designer more than 60 years ago. One word of caution though: These collapsible Summicron lenses have a very soft front element. That is, you can easily scratch the front lens surface when trying to clean this lens. Many of those Summicrons, therefore, have a more or less heavily scratched front lens element. I might be wise to use a UV or other protection filter to avoid dust and other debris getting to the front element. You only have to clean the filter then, which is easier to do and does not involve the risk of scratching your lens.

 

Best, Andy

Edited by wizard
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Is that a challenge?  If so, I will gladly take it.  Be clear, though, I have LOTS of experience... :)

No, not at all, and I'm sorry if I have not expressed myself well.
 
I do not speak English, I find it difficult to express it, I do it with the help of the Google translator.
 
I am very grateful for your advice and information, and I am proud of my 2 IIIf and IIIg cameras. What happens is that I will have to practice more and more to appreciate the difference you indicate to me.
 
I apologize if a written phrase (and translated with google) is not well understood and can be interpreted as an offense or challenge. I can assure you that it is not my intention to do so.
 
a greeting
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No, not at all, and I'm sorry if I have not expressed myself well.
 
I do not speak English, I find it difficult to express it, I do it with the help of the Google translator.
 
I am very grateful for your advice and information, and I am proud of my 2 IIIf and IIIg cameras. What happens is that I will have to practice more and more to appreciate the difference you indicate to me.
 
I apologize if a written phrase (and translated with google) is not well understood and can be interpreted as an offense or challenge. I can assure you that it is not my intention to do so.
 
a greeting

 

 

oy, please don't take me seriously!  I was only kidding with my reply.  And yes, I was indeed exaggerating by saying that it is the fastest camera in the world.  But it is very fast, and very compact and discreet.  I'd love to hang out with you and go shooting with our IIIs if you are ever in NY.  Cheers!!!   Adam 

Edited by A miller
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Congratulations on finding what appears to be a near mint Summicron 2/50mm. The lenses look crystal clear, so your lens should perform as intended by the designer more than 60 years ago. One word of caution though: These collapsible Summicron lenses have a very soft front element. That is, you can easily scratch the front lens surface when trying to clean this lens. Many of those Summicrons, therefore, have a more or less heavily scratched front lens element. I might be wise to use a UV or other protection filter to avoid dust and other debris getting to the front element. You only have to clean the filter then, which is easier to do and does not involve the risk of scratching your lens.

 

Best, Andy

 

Thank you very much.
 
I take note of the advice and instructions.
The UV protection filter, I think it's a good idea ..
a greeting
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oy, please don't take me seriously!  I was only kidding with my reply.  And yes, I was indeed exaggerating by saying that it is the fastest camera in the world.  But it is very fast, and very compact and discreet.  I'd love to hang out with you and go shooting with our IIIs if you are ever in NY.  Cheers!!!   Adam 

If you are ever in Huesca, I invite you to talk, photograph and finally have an aperitif.
regards.
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As a beginner in analog and having asked this question in other forums with insastifecho results, he repeats it in this forum:
 
To start with the analog, I bought a Leica IIIf and recently a IIIg and a photometer. With these tools and according to my criteria, I obtained moderately acceptable results and now is when the next question arises.
 
If I buy an MA, M7 or M6 and with the same objectives ... Do you think I can make better pictures?
 
Before making any other new investment, I would like to know vustras opinon.
 
I await your wise advice and recommendations.
 
Thank you very much.

 

 

Acquiring better quality lenses will result in improved image quality.  Acquiring newer camera bodies?  Not so much.  That is very near the end of the list of variables that will result in your ability to make better pictures.

 

So what will make you able to make better pictures?  Several things, such as:

 

Buying, reading and studying books that showcase the images of truly masterful photographers such as Henri Cartier-Bresson, Constantine Manos, Peter Turnley, Alex Webb, Steve McCurry, Sebastião Salgado, Bruce Gilden, David Alan Harvey, Hiroji Kubota, Thomas Hoepker, David Alan Harvey and others who inhabit this rarefied strata of photographic vision and insight.  It's not about buying books; it's about studying the images in them.

 

Thousands of hours with your eye socket welded to your viewfinder eyepiece.

 

Tens of thousands of images made, edited, processed, archived, printed and shared with others.

 

Tens of thousands of images made with one lens. 

 

Thousands of images made with one lens set at one aperture.

 

Learning the attributes of light and how light affects the images you make. 

George Eastman:  "Light makes photography. Embrace light. Admire it. Love it. But above all, know light.  Know it for all you are worth, and you will know the key to photography."

 

The act of relentlessly honing you photographic eye - key word being relentlessly.  Henri Cartier-Bresson:  "It's an illusion that photos are made with the camera...  They are made with the eye, heart and head."

 

Anyone can make photographs.  Very few people can make powerful, visionary photographs that will knock the wind out of you and leave you weak in the knees.  That takes years of relentless commitment and dedication to craft and vision. 

 

There are no short cuts, there are no hacks.

Edited by Herr Barnack
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You nailed it on the head, Herr. Nothing has done more to improve my photography than to study what came before me, to experiment and to learn from those experiments through failures and successes, whatever camera or medium I'm using at the time.

 

Even after eight years behind a camera, after 150 rolls of Tri-X in the last 2 years, I still often take a photograph because I don't know what the outcome will be like and want to find out. Once I do, I'll know whether it worked or not and I add that into my mental knowledge base of photography.

 

Now more than ever I consider each frame I expose to be a lesson waiting to be learnt.

 

Acquiring better quality lenses will result in improved image quality.  Acquiring newer camera bodies?  Not so much.  That is very near the end of the list of variables that will result in your ability to make better pictures.

 

So what will make you able to make better pictures?  Several things, such as:

 

Buying, reading and studying books that showcase the images of truly masterful photographers such as Henri Cartier-Bresson, Constantine Manos, Peter Turnley, Alex Webb, Steve McCurry, Sebastião Salgado, Bruce Gilden, David Alan Harvey, Hiroji Kubota, Thomas Hoepker, David Alan Harvey and others who inhabit this rarefied strata of photographic vision and insight.  It's not about buying books; it's about studying the images in them.

 

Thousands of hours with your eye socket welded to your viewfinder eyepiece.

 

Tens of thousands of images made, edited, processed, archived, printed and shared with others.

 

Tens of thousands of images made with one lens. 

 

Thousands of images made with one lens set at one aperture.

 

Learning the attributes of light and how light affects the images you make. 

George Eastman:  "Light makes photography. Embrace light. Admire it. Love it. But above all, know light.  Know it for all you are worth, and you will know the key to photography."

 

The act of relentlessly honing you photographic eye - key word being relentlessly.  Henri Cartier-Bresson:  "It's an illusion that photos are made with the camera...  They are made with the eye, heart and head."

 

Anyone can make photographs.  Very few people can make powerful, visionary photographs that will knock the wind out of you and leave you weak in the knees.  That takes years of relentless commitment and dedication to craft and vision. 

 

There are no short cuts, there are no hacks.

 

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Hello:

My first photos with Leic IIIg and Summicron 5cm f2, that I recently bought for this camera.

 

The photos have been revealed by me with the recently acquired Rondinax.

 

Movie used "FOMAPAN" Classic B & W

 

Negatives scanned with the "VEHEO" scanner that I also acquired. (it is regular / low).

 

Here are some of the photos. Any advice or suggestion will be well received:

 

 

29926488937_e3f0701e49_b.jpg

 

 

30990640018_a5d8b4f09a_b.jpg

 

 

44862745531_02aac9e3c5_b.jpg

 

 

43051687120_a6f96a4800_b.jpg

 

 

44142233364_9d62e0a04b_b.jpg

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Some images, although the film is black and white, have a color tone (red-yellow).

Can someone say the reason?

Is it the chemical developer of the film, the lens, the camera or the scanner ...?

 

The photos have been edited with PS C6 and very little retouched to see their effect.

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The color casts look to be the scanner. If it isn’t set to scan purely B&W this can happen.

Some edges of the frame show a shading pattern next to the sprocket holes, that is typically due to over agitation during development.

The images look like your Summicron is in fine shape!

Edited by TomB_tx
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The color casts look to be the scanner. If it isn’t set to scan purely B&W this can happen.

Some edges of the frame show a shading pattern next to the sprocket holes, that is typically due to over agitation during development.

The images look like your Summicron is in fine shape!

 

Thank you for your comments.
 
Your comments encourage me to continue working.
It has logic everything that says:
The scanner configuration is not correct for B & W and the overlap of the edges of the frame can also be due to excessive agitation in the development of the film.
 
For me, all this is new, I come from digital point-and-shoot compact cameras. Grcias to the amibilidad of the people of these forums I go ahead and how I am learning I like and encourages me to continue.
 
a greeting
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As indicated and what I am checking, what I find more difficult is to load the film, even with the ablon accessory.

 

You have to be very careful to mesh the film well.

 

In the middle of the day, and standing, it is difficult for me to make the change.

 

Maybe with a lot of practice, it can be mastered and it can be done faster.

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As indicated and what I am checking, what I find more difficult is to load the film, even with the ablon accessory.

 

You have to be very careful to mesh the film well.

 

In the middle of the day, and standing, it is difficult for me to make the change.

 

Maybe with a lot of practice, it can be mastered and it can be done faster.

This is where the M is more convenient. It is much easier to load film, and can be done on the move.

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