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Leica S and Profoto A1s


erlingmm

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I just bought the Duo kit of Profoto A1s, there seems to be a campaign now with good price for 2 A1s with some extras (bags, diffuser, stand).

 

I will use it with my S007, 2 of my lenses are CS (70 and 120mm). I also bought (used) an Air Remote controller from Profoto (I am aware that it does not work in TTL on Leica, but I can control 2 units and adjust light power from the remote).

 

I know the basic functionality of the system, but would appreciate any experiences, set-ups, example pictures from other users.

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- "Can I ask: what made you go with the A1s, compared to other options?"

 

I have not done deep research, and I already have the SF64, I have done som experiments with added flash in daylight that I find interesting. I know a couple of other S photographers in Norway who has tried the A1.

 

I was also at a portrait workshop recently and was instructed in light setup with models, and would like more than 1 source to play with, and off camera. The A1s have model light, so you can experiment with studio-like set-ups. But I don't have studio space, and wanted something light and portable. I also have 2 CS lenses, and wanted to experiment with higher sync speeds outside.

 

Then the offer for the Duo kit was rather attractive.

Edited by erlingmm
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I went down this road for a while with my SL and a single Profoto B2 with a 2ft OCF beauty dish. I uised it to shoot street portraits with but stopped after a short while as I didn't like the way it made everything look very commercial. It's possible to avoid that outcome but I wasn't interested in developing my creative approach in that direction. Similarly, in a studio setting, it's possible to use strobes to interesting and very creative effect but you need a lot of space, big modifiers and a lot more light than the A1s will put out. The A1s will add a lot of light of course and are in no way a poor option, it just depends on what you want to achieve.

 

I don't know what options you have for using the A1s with profoto modifiers but either way that would be something to research and then experiment with. If you're in need of tuition there are many guides on the internet but start with a just one small beauty dish or soft box, place it no more than 2m from your subject at about 45 degrees to them and see how you like the results. You can guess the exposure value or you can use a hand held light meter, which is a good thing to learn to use. Have fun.

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I use one, though I have been mostly using it as a compliment to my B1's. I do a lot of field work at night, but I am generally just blasting the light at full power without any modifiers, as for me that is the aesthetic that works. So in that sense I cannot respond so well as to how nuanced the lighting is, but it is certainly the best on-camera flash I have ever used. It is much easier to use, more refined in operation and much more convenient because of the battery. The kit works great. TTL is not useful in my workflow, so I do not miss it. I would link some pictures, but the upload size is limited to 500kb and I can't be bothered to fool around with the images just for this. I will say, however, that the light output at night is only useful for a few meters. Even the B1's are not ideal in this manner. In some cases I find using high powered headlamps made for biking (3200 lumen) is more useful than flash for my work. The A1 is great for convenience and things like portraiture. 

 

 

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I use one A1 (Nikon version) with the Air Remote, with the S007. Also with my Nikon and Fuji cameras, each with their respective TTL controllers. Mostly to fill when shooting outside, in direct sunlight. Usually off camera, on a Manfrotto Nano stand, with no modifier other than the dome, sometimes inside with an umbrella. With the Nikon also on-camera, bounced off a wall or ceiling, with the black "lip" thingie that prevents direct light hitting the subject (this is actually great to have in the accessories, as until now, with other speedlights, I used to attach a piece of black foam using a hairband...worked well but not as convenient as the A1 solution). Note: the radio trigger does not work when the A1 is positioned very close to it - e.g. if you insert the Air Remote in your camera's hotshoe and attach the flash onto some bracket fixed to the camera. If this happens, set both the remote and the A1 to channel 8, then it works.

 

The A1 has amazingly quick recharge time, just like studio strobes. The quality of light is also good. And the battery lasts for hundreds of shots…with one spare, you can shoot the whole day. I sold the SF-64 (no radio control, slow to recharge, doesn't work with my other cameras). No need for HSS when using the leaf shutter CS lenses (also works great with the little Fuji X100F which syncs up to 1/2000s...and up to 1/1000s with TTL, wow). I can now access only some shots of my family which I don't want to upload here. But I am very happy with the A1.

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  • 5 months later...
On 9/3/2018 at 9:05 AM, geetee1972 said:

I went down this road for a while with my SL and a single Profoto B2 with a 2ft OCF beauty dish. I uised it to shoot street portraits with but stopped after a short while as I didn't like the way it made everything look very commercial. It's possible to avoid that outcome but I wasn't interested in developing my creative approach in that direction. Similarly, in a studio setting, it's possible to use strobes to interesting and very creative effect but you need a lot of space, big modifiers and a lot more light than the A1s will put out. The A1s will add a lot of light of course and are in no way a poor option, it just depends on what you want to achieve.

 

I don't know what options you have for using the A1s with profoto modifiers but either way that would be something to research and then experiment with. If you're in need of tuition there are many guides on the internet but start with a just one small beauty dish or soft box, place it no more than 2m from your subject at about 45 degrees to them and see how you like the results. You can guess the exposure value or you can use a hand held light meter, which is a good thing to learn to use. Have fun.

If I could ask, how did you trigger your B2? Is there a specific one works best with the SL? I am having trouble with my (canon) air remote triggering my A1. Any help is really appreciated. 

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Use the generic Profoto Air Sync/Remote, not any of the brand-specific TTL versions.

This one: https://profoto.com/int/products/air-remotes/remotes/air-sync

Or this one: https://profoto.com/int/products/air-remotes/remotes/air-remote

No high speed sync or TTL with either of these, though - you will be limited by the SL's max sync speed (1/250s).

If you need faster sync speed, then either Leica's own overpriced, half-assed "solutions" or Priolite (Bowens modifiers).

If you just need to reduce the ambient, use an ND filter.

Leica is the only brand (ok, maybe apart from Sigma) for which Profoto does not offer a dedicated TTL/HSS remote trigger.
Leica has never taken flash seriously. They probably still think that a Leica shooter should adopt the "available light aesthetics".
Where this leaves their marketing spiel about the SL being a "professional camera" is for each of us to consider.

For the SL2, whenever it may come, could we, please, at least get the ability to use the leaf shutter of the CS lenses, when used with the S-L adapter?

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