Elmar 50mm. 3.5 Distance plate does not thread.

[Dopaco]

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La placa de distancia no se atornilla con el resto de la lente, como se ve en la foto:

 

¿Debo llevarme el mecánico para revisar los hilos del hilo o puedo hacerlo en casa?

 

¿Alguien ha tenido este problema?

¿Cómo lo resolvió?

Gracias

 

[UliWer]

Perhaps I misunderstand your question  - translated to English: "The distance plate does not screw in with the rest of the lens, as seen in the photo".

 

The distance plate is not supposed to turn around, when you focus the lens. It is fixed, and only the lens turns around:

 

Here is an Elmar on a camera in infinity position:

 

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And now in close-up position - the distance ring always in the same position:

 

 

 

 

To screw it to the body it looks like this:

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

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[Dopaco]

Thank you for the work of the photos and your comments.

 

The same I have not explained myself well.

If we remove the longest screw from the distance plate and turn to the left, we can remove the 2 parts and thus clean it; In my case, clean with alcohol, there was a lot of old dirt that prevented smooth movements.

I did this work with another Elmar and it did not give me problems to return it to its normal position, which is what you indicate in your images.

There must be a position where the threading begins.

What is that position? ... I do not know ... That's why I ask the question.

Although I'm still trying to find it.

[Pyrogallol]

It has a multi-start thread.

Try screwing the lens part into the mount in different positions, moving it round slightly until you find the position where it will screw all the way in with the infinity distance marks lining up when it is fully screwed in.

[willeica]

 

Thank you for the work of the photos and your comments.

 

The same I have not explained myself well.

If we remove the longest screw from the distance plate and turn to the left, we can remove the 2 parts and thus clean it; In my case, clean with alcohol, there was a lot of old dirt that prevented smooth movements.

I did this work with another Elmar and it did not give me problems to return it to its normal position, which is what you indicate in your images.

There must be a position where the threading begins.

What is that position? ... I do not know ... That's why I ask the question.

Although I'm still trying to find it.

 

 

I agree with Pyrogallol about trial and error. If my memory serves me correctly, the position that works for a I Model A is that you should start with infinity around the 7 O'Clock position. It should, be the same for later Elmars.

 

William

[Dopaco]

 try and nothing, it does not join.

I suspect there may be some damaged thread.

regards

[wizard]

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 try and nothing, it does not join.

I suspect there may be some damaged thread.

regards

 

 

No, I do not think so. I took one of my own Elmar lenses apart for cleaning, and forgot to mark the correct position. Had the same problem you have, it took me a long, long time to  reassemble the two parts, only to find that it was the wrong position. So  I had to disassemble them again, and it took me a long time to eventually find the correct position. The threads are very precisely machined, so there is very little play, which makes it very difficult to reassemble the two parts.

 

For a start, you have place the two parts absolutely horizontal relative to each other. If they are angled realative to each other, you will not succeed in screwing one part into the other.

 

Regards,

 

Andy

[Pyrogallol]

It has a multi-start thread.

Try screwing the lens part into the mount in different positions, moving it round slightly until you find the position where it will screw all the way in with the infinity distance marks lining up when it is fully screwed in.

Were they screwed together originally and did they come apart smoothly? in which case the threads should be undamaged and should go together again once you can get them started in the right place.

[jerzy]

 the threads should be undamaged ...

yes and no. If you do not position both parts correctly and apply more force when trying to screw-in it is possible to damage the thread.

Additionaly, the red scale Elmars (this is not red scale) have very tight thread, you need to use some force, but you need to be very sure that both parts are positioned correctly.

For this lens the distance mark shall be at approx 1,5m where the thread starts

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[Dopaco]

Yes, it is possible that you have done strength by squeezing with your hand.

 

In the case of having damaged some thread

What would be the best solution? ..

 

a greeting

[willeica]

yes and no. If you do not position both parts correctly and apply more force when trying to screw-in it is possible to damage the thread.

Additionaly, the red scale Elmars (this is not red scale) have very tight thread, you need to use some force, but you need to be very sure that both parts are positioned correctly.

For this lens the distance mark shall be at approx 1,5m where the thread starts

1.jpg

 

Thanks Jerzy. My advice above was a bit garbled. With a I Model A Elmar being inserted into the distance scale mount, I usually start with the distance indicator at 1.25metres ( at about 7 O'Clock) and somewhere between there and 1.5 metres (10 O'Clock) the thread usually gets traction. It is important to keep the lens vertical and the mount flat when doing this.

 

William

[alan mcfall]

I had so much trouble getting these distance flange plates back on, that I usually don't take them completely off any more. To clean the threads, I turn them say 90% of the way off, with maybe just a quarter turn or less of the treads still engaged. Then carefully clean the exposed threads ( front and rear or male and female) with proper solvent and brushes. Returning the distance plate to infinity, some threads stick out the back of the flange and they can be cleaned. Doing this a few times removes most all of the dirt.  The new lubricant can be added in the same fashion, without ever completely removing the distance flange.  Some dirt is so hard that I have to use a medical scalpel to get it out of the threads, do this carefully if needed.  These, exposed to the elements, threads were certainly a weak point for early lenses that leitz took pains to eliminate in later lenses.  Not what a professional would do, but it works for me. The best lubricant to use has been a subject of past posts. In reality, there are probably modern lubricants that are superior to what was available to Leitz in 1925.

[Dopaco]

alan mcfall:

 

It's a great idea, I take good note and if I have to clean others, I'll do it that way.

 

If you are receptive, you can always learn something.

 

Thanks vendito forum, (in particular to Alan macfall) today I learned one more thing.

[jc_braconi]

Put the lever in front of the infinity symbol and try slowly be sure eveything is in line try one tread before or one after if it does not work

[250swb]

Do not get tense and grip or squeeze the plate, hold it gently, try small variations in where you start threading it.

Edited August 11, 2018 by 250swb

[schattenundlicht]

Although this will not help you this time around, next time, on dismantling a lens, note down the precise position (distance mark) of the focus indicator exactly at the moment the two threads separate when unscrewing (unscrew very slowly with the last remaining turn). Then, later reassembly will be rather painfree plus you can clean the entire threads. Although Alan‘s trick is a safe bet with regard to keeping everything properly aligned, I myself prefer to have a complete overview of the thread to be cleaned.

[wlaidlaw]

I have just been trying with a disassembled old Elmar that I keep for spare parts, screws, rings, etc. I found the correct start position of the three start thread for that lens (a 7 o'clock lever lens) was with the focus lever around 100º clockwise (looking at the front of the lens) from the infinity mark, for the closed helicoid position to be correct with the distance indicator triangle at infinity on the scale. It is quite difficult to get the thread to start correctly. I found the best way was to start around 120-130º clockwise and then wind backwards (anti-clockwise) applying very gently pressure until you can feel the end points of the threads jump over each other. Then making sure you are holding the lens body at right angles to the back ring, start winding clockwise until the threads engage smoothly. It is quite easy on a worn helicoid to cross thread, so very gently until you are sure it is correct, with all three thread starts engaged. 

 

Wilson

Edited August 12, 2018 by wlaidlaw

[Dopaco]

Hello:

 

Today I travel all day from Aragon to Extremadura (Spain).

 

If I rest from the trip I try again.

 

Although I think that with so many attempts, it is possible that some thread has been damaged.

 

Thanks for your willingness to help.

 

I will continue informing.

[Dopaco]

Hello:

Again here to report the situation of this Elmar 50mm f3,5.
After many attempts on my part and by a watchmaker friend, it was impossible to join the 2 screw parts.

I sent it to Tamo Repair of cameras and photographic lenses in Zaragoza and gave me a budget of € 88 to repair the diaphragm focusing propeller and clean the lenses.

I thought it was expensive, but seeing its value in the second-hand market, I accept it and I already have it in my possession.

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What should I do to verify that the repair was successful? ...

Thank you

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Hallo,

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[luigi bertolotti]

If movement is smooth all along the focus throw, there is no axial play and, above all, the lens does couple correctly to the rangefinder, they have made a right job.