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Is it possible to take night street shots handheld with M10


rodders

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I'm off to Japan next month and looking forward to capturing what looks like a fascinating country.

 

I am taking my M10, 50 lux and 35 cron. I don't plan to take my tripod due to inconvenience and weight.

 

Tokyo has a wonderfully bright and vibrant night life that I would love to capture.

 

Am I kidding myself I can take sharp pics without a tripod ? Any tips (ideal iso etc greatly appreciated. :)

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one of my favorite Japanese photographers..shoots at night usually with an M5...so should be easier with the M10 with its uber high ISO

 

https://www.lensculture.com/articles/junku-nishimura-a-nocturnal-visitor

 

http://erickimphotography.com/blog/2013/02/08/the-nostalgic-black-white-photos-of-japan-interview-with-street-photographer-junku-nishimura/

Edited by frame-it
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You can shoot street at night with the M10 and the M9 (as long as you have fast glass).

 

Here are some shots from last year in Venice with my M10 and 35 pre-asph lux.

 

https://www.l-camera-forum.com/topic/278204-night-bus-in-venice/

 

M9 with pre-asph lux - candlelight only

 

https://www.l-camera-forum.com/topic/280183-advent-candles/

Edited by topoxforddoc
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I'm off to Japan next month and looking forward to capturing what looks like a fascinating country.

 

I am taking my M10, 50 lux and 35 cron. I don't plan to take my tripod due to inconvenience and weight.

 

Tokyo has a wonderfully bright and vibrant night life that I would love to capture.

 

Am I kidding myself I can take sharp pics without a tripod ? Any tips (ideal iso etc greatly appreciated. :)

Your best lens for night shots is likely to be the Summicron 35. Expose properly, don't worry about clipping irelevant specular highlights.

 

For slow shutter speeds:

 

Hold the camera properly

Lean against something

Breathe out before releasing

Don't jab the shutter button, gently is the word

Take bursts instead of single shots.

Sit down, use your elbows  as a tripod.

 

You should be able to go down to 1/8th

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Consider Leica's mini-tripod. Add a light ballhead and it can double as a chest-pod. Quite effective too.

 

 

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Another handholding technique, using your strap in lieu of a pod, is described in this old post...

 

https://www.l-camera-forum.com/topic/111304-tripod-monopod-nothing/?do=findComment&comment=1209129

 

There are also some clever extending monopods around, but use of wide apertures, higher ISOs and good technique should suffice.

 

Jeff

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Your best lens for night shots is likely to be the Summicron 35. Expose properly, don't worry about clipping irelevant specular highlights.

 

For slow shutter speeds:

 

Hold the camera properly

Lean against something

Breathe out before releasing

Don't jab the shutter button, gently is the word

Take bursts instead of single shots.

Sit down, use your elbows  as a tripod.

 

You should be able to go down to 1/8th

 

Would you not set the compensation to -1 LV at night time (maybe -¾)? Otherwise the photographs will turn up lighter than in reality and the ISO are unnecessarily high.

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No, the contrast in night street scenes is quite high. You need to expose exactly for the essential part of the image and let the shadows and highlights fall how they may. A general EV compensation is too imprecise. Leica's centre-weighed exposure metering and manual settings are perfect for the job.  I would advise against Auto-ISO on the M 10 as well. The ISO dial gives more control.

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I was in Tokyo for a week for the Sakura festival last week of March...I brought a tripod and a mini tripod but did not use them...I took several night shots around Shibuya crossing, Ginza and a sakura street...these are all well lit and shooting at F4.5 with my Sony A7R, 16-35 lens, set at auto iso, the iso ranged from 400 to 4000. The Sony was my night walk around camera,

 

I am happy shooting high iso with the M10, doing some noise reduction in LR...here is one iso 6400 1/30 probably F2.8 m10 with Elmarit 28 hand held, sorry not Tokyo but the VaticanL1001864-X2.jpg

 

Tokyo Shibuya crossing iso 1600 F4.5 

https://photos.smugmug.com/Tokyo2018/i-PxCRWDk/0/93feb29f/X2/DSC00914-X2.jpg

Edited by tonyniev
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Been to Japan 5+ times and it's a wonderful photographers paradise.

 

If you get a chance, visit MAP CAMERA store adjacent to the Shinjuku train station, it's a wonderful shop FULL of Leica stuff.

 

 

I always have this Manfrotto Modo permanently attached to my M240.

 

 

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Remember that with the minipods (Leitz or others) one can plant it against a vertical wall/column as well as use it as a chest-pod or on a horizontal surface. Esp. with a ball head.

 

Taught to me ~40 years ago by the then-Head of Sales for Leitz USA, and director of the Leica School, Walter Heun (not to be confused with the Dutch dancer/impresario).

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I was in Tokyo for a week for the Sakura festival last week of March...I brought a tripod and a mini tripod but did not use them...I took several night shots around Shibuya crossing, Ginza and a sakura street...these are all well lit and shooting at F4.5 with my Sony A7R, 16-35 lens, set at auto iso, the iso ranged from 400 to 4000. The Sony was my night walk around camera,

 

I am happy shooting high iso with the M10, doing some noise reduction in LR...here is one iso 6400 1/30 probably F2.8 m10 with Elmarit 28 hand held, sorry not Tokyo but the VaticanL1001864-X2.jpg

 

Tokyo Shibuya crossing iso 1600 F4.5 

https://photos.smugmug.com/Tokyo2018/i-PxCRWDk/0/93feb29f/X2/DSC00914-X2.jpg

Hi Toni,

 

I presume that you had set an exposure correction or else you made the (nice) photograph darker in lightroom. I personally would do that correction in order to be able to set the ISO to AUTO at night (just to be a bit faster setting the camera). This is in contradiction of what Jaapv would do. I just prefer not to have the ISO too high and make the picture darker in LR anyway.

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I presume he measured the buildings. The centre-weighed measuring of the  M10 will disregard  the darker areas outside the center.  I hardly ever use Auto-ISO, set it manually (really easy on the M10). In my experience it ramps up too soon, especially when I am able to use extra long shutter speeds - longer than AI expects. Manual exposure and manual ISO will give the best results in difficult light.

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Good, Jaapv. I understand what you mean. I would avoid to let the ISO go up through manual setting of the exposure TIME. As you said above, this can go well up to 1/8s if you can put your elbows down onto something solid.

 

I generally agree with Jaapv to set everything manually and most time I do it too. I would have to take my time though to find the „right“ spot where I measure the light. That is then what you call „more control“. I will try out. Its anyway great to see night photography.

Edited by Alex U.
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Hi Toni,

 

I presume that you had set an exposure correction or else you made the (nice) photograph darker in lightroom. I personally would do that correction in order to be able to set the ISO to AUTO at night (just to be a bit faster setting the camera). This is in contradiction of what Jaapv would do. I just prefer not to have the ISO too high and make the picture darker in LR anyway.

 yup, image was processed thru LR6, and did highlights and exposure control in addition to sharpening and noise reduction...I have been shooting auto iso, and really shooting point and shoot style with the M10, manuaa focusing in most instances, using zebra focus help,  if not zoned focused, a lazy old man.

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I was in the Southwest of France last winter.

A small medieval town with little light.

 

No problem with my M10! (ISOmax 3200)

 

Ultron 1.7/35mm VM

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Edited by cp995
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